Wobble

I know you had an issue with the wrong parts for the Light Racing UCAs, did you get everything resolved with this?

Did you do the strut assembly of your 885s coils? I ask because I remember thinking the top bushing from a pic posted in the LR UCAs issue thread looked a bit relaxed (I can explain further).

Once I have a little more info about the assembly of the struts and UCAs I might be able to help.

 

Is it possible that the vibration from the wheels could cause other problems in the truck itself? Should I expect no vibration at all when I switch tires and rims?

Also, I just lifted but did not align, and am going to align once I get new tires. I will then need to go in, get my tires put on my rims, and align those tires. Do you have any advice as to how to make sure they align everything properly?? I don't want to deal with those problems

 

The passenger side I did myself and the driver side I took to a shop and had them compress everything and tighten. In all honesty the passenger side has the two washers on the inside of the LR UCA's and the driver side only has one but is all tightened down and am waiting on the new bushings, but I don't see why that would make it rock slightly forward and back? The strut mount on the driver side it super tight but the top washer I can move and isn't tight against the bushing? Why would that be?

 

Passenger

Driver

 

both sides has a 1/2 top plate spacer and one side has the old top hat nuts and the other side has the new nuts off my original top hat. That shouldn't matter though and yes they coils are on correctly the flat side at the top and the rounder part at the bottom

 

You probably have two different things feeding into this.

1) The UCAs are not right (you need the new bushings/sleeves) and I suspect one of them is alomost pined in place not able to move as intended. Resistance is expected and they shouldn't move freely, but it shouldn't take a whole lot of force either. If they are not moving as intended you will get a slight bounce.

2) The assembly is not right on the drivers side, the washer should be under pressure and the bushing should be compressed. If this is not the case I suspect the bottom bushing under the top hot is garbage and or missing. Did you happen to buy new top hats with new hardware or did you reuse the factory parts?

 

I noticed it wasn't under pressure and tried to tighten the nut and it want tighten anymore? The driver side is a top hat I got from someone off here and the bushing underneath it looked ok. Maybe I will disassemble my driver set that came off the truck and have them redo that side and see if that works. Will it hurt anything if I drive it for a week or two like it is? Just normal driving

 

Passenger side I compressed myself with the sketchy tool from advanced, then decided to have my driver side done at a mechanic shop but used a used top hat from someone I bought some off of on here. Nothing was wrong with them?

 

Passenger side is missing the coil isolator.....No good!

Where are the boots? The boots have a ring that goes over the shaft and also serves as a spacer. This right there would compress the bottom and top bushings most.

Also it would appear the top bolt was not torqued down while the coils were compressed. This sound right?

 

Well shit I knew I forgot the coil isolator and wasn't aware that hurt anything. Wrong on that!! The boots I left off too as I didn't know those had to be used. I thought they were just dust boots. Oh it was compressed alright while they were tightened. I will take it back to the shop next week and have all this done. I guess I f'd that all up.

 

Yeah I probably will go that route so I don't have to fork out more money for a mechanic to do it.

 

Yeah the boots don't have to be used, but I'd recommend adding the ring from the boots so the initial washer can rest on them. You just have the washer sitting on the recessed edge of the shaft? Not even sure this would work, but haven't tried.

I'm used to seeing more thread when the top bolt is torqued down correctly, this is why I suspect the top bolt was torqued with the coils uncompressed. By the way, don't ever torque the top bolt under load from the coil... not a good idea and you'll strip it.

 

^^^This

 

I will probably just use the washer from the boot and I suspect as well that the coil was not compressed quite as much as it should have been when torqueing the top bolt which is probably why I have the slight rocking feeling. Ill put the isolator back in the passenger side as well.

 

Can I use one jack and jack the entire front end up somehow? What can I put it on without hurting anything to get the front end lifted? I have 4 jack stands I can use under the frame to be safe.

 

Wheres that video on compressing the struts while on the truck?

 

Isn't there another video better than this one? Do you have to loosen the lower control arms? Want that affect your alignment?
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/289145-bilstien-5100-install.html

 

Yeah I will try it without loosening those and I don't want to have to take apart the steering knuckle either. I don't see why all that has to be done?

 

Yeah that sounds easy enough but I need to disassemble the coil from the shock while on the truck and unload the spring compression. I think I have a decent idea of how to do it. I guess we will see once again and this better fix my dam wobble wobble.

My plan is jack the truck up have two jack stands under the front. Take tires off. two lower UCA bolts out, take the Upper UCA nut off that's connected to the spindle, loosen the bottom shock slightly, jack the lower control arm up to compress the coil spring, take the top middle nut off, then lower until I am able to get the strut out, take shock bolt out, put boot washer on, isolator, reinstall. hopefully this works out and doesn't take forever.

 

You fix those struts and UCAs be sure to report back to us on that wobble.

Make sure when you compress the coils and put everything together that you get that top nut tightened down all the way. The bistiens come with the nylock nuts and you don't need to over torque them, shit if I remember correctly on the bilstiens the nut actually stops as there is only so much thread on the top shafts. Once you run out of thread and the nut “hits the wall” I thinks it’s torque to 25 lbs and done. When you finally decompress the coils there will be plenty of resistance on that top nut so it will not come loose. The end result should be that the top bushing is smashed down to match the diameter of the top washer. With the front end off the ground and the struts bolted up in place I’m used to seeing the top bushing smashed down to about 1 cm thick or less.

Best of luck