Added a roof vent to my fiberglass topper shell.

I completed this project ON 7/19/2014. It went really well. I went full custom for my vent using a bit of 4" ABS pipe and a Canplas ABS vent cap for $15.

Here are a few photos and basic steps of how I did it.

Mark off work area with blue tape to protect paint. Measure and find centerline, and use ABS pipe to mark I.D. and O.D. for a template.


I put up a "drop cloth" on the underside of the roof to catch debris there (I hate messes).


I used a cordless drill to drill small holes all the way around the template.


I then drilled a larger hole to fit the rotary tool into, then it was fast and easy to connect the dots. I used a vacuum to collect dust. No mess.


Shell now has a nice round hole.


I used my fingers to push back and break the paper cellular structure to make room for fiberglass repair.


Mix fiberglass epoxy stuff which is waterproof!


Sand fiberglass with sanding drum and rotary tool after 25 minutes of hardening.


Test fit vent and cap


Apply Velcro brace for vent and tape off area again


Set ABS pipe into joint with adhesive sealant.


Install vent cap (after 48 hours) (Top down view)



I'm very happy with the way it's turned out. It is low profile and does not interfere with the roof rack. It is helping cool the inside of the shell by ~25*F at the roofline. If I want to completely shut the vent I'll use a "mechanical test plug" and plug it from the inside. Very easy.

======ORIGINAL POST 6-17-2014 BELOW=========

I am considering adding a roof vent to my A.R.E. fiberglass truck shell. And I created this thread as a sanity check. Has anyone here done this before?

I'd have to cut a hole in the reinforced fiberglass section of the truck shell. I have consulted with A.R.E, the manufacturer and they have assured me that it's just fiberglass and the reinforcement is actually a paper product (like cardbard). They said if I can provide a seal against moisture intrusion, I should be good.

Getting all the details right for a project like this is of paramount importance, water intrusion would be a disaster. One of the complexities is that the roof is not flat, it's convex in all directions from the center point out. For a sealant I was considering 3M's Adhesive Sealant 5200.

Here are some pics of the vent I am considering:

These are called a two-way hingeless aluminum vent. The vent can open in either direction and they are small and aluminum.

Vent pics borrowed from Ramdough on EXPO






Here is a cross-section picture of what the reinforced section of roof looks like:




Thoughts? Advice? Anyone done this before?

 

Subscribed.

 

This project has been fast-tracked and is my highest priority for the truck right now. Going to source parts and
acquire tools as necessary.

Measured from the roof of the truck shell, ambient temp is 90F. Direct sun all day.

 

What about those little solar power air ventilators?

I'd have to go and look but the make them for the drivers/passenger window for when you're parked.

 

Active cooling is fine, but i have nowhere to exhaust the hot air. Mine is a truck shell fiberglass truck cap there are no vents or windows whatsoever other than a little slider window at the front. The configuration I have is a miniature oven, & I need to do something.

 

http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Enclosed_Trailer_Parts-pt-Roof_Vent-sz-With_12V_Fan.aspx

Check these out...

 

Installed a sunroof in my last trucks cap...no problem. Do it. I'm considering 2 for this one.

 

Those all would work. I like the small aluminum one as it only protrudes 1/2" from roof and is small. Whenever I go camping I load sometimes up to 200 pounds on my roof rack. The small vent should not structurally change the load-carrying capabilities of the truck shell.

I've never heard that before! Badass!

What did you use to cut the hole? I'm thinking of a jigsaw.

 

Crom , what about adding a vent to the side(s) of your cap ?

 

Make a template of the hole you need, and drill the four corners with a drill bit first (will help prevent the fibreglass from possibly cracking).

Maybe a multitool with a fine tooth blade for the cut

 

The sides are all glass flip up windoors, so not a way i can see.

 

That's the way I was going to go. Mask off with tape, find center line, measure, use vent for template, measure again, do the four corners with drill bit and jig saw the rest. Seems strait forward enough, but hard to do considering I bought it new at $2400 and penalty for doing it wrong ( water intrusion / structural damage) is high.

 

Does the vent itself have a gasket of some sort on it? I'd be more worried with wicking or wind pressuring pushing water up and in since it is short walled

 

Yes the vent has an integrated rubber gasket built in to the top lid so no issues there. If the vent is closed I can be assured of no water coming in. I am having trouble sourcing the gasket that goes between the roof and the vent. The vendor that I linked in the first post carries the vent but not that gasket.

I may have to cut my own gasket which I'm okay with, but I'd rather not have to do. As long as it a non water absorbing (closed cell foam) should be okay... I have a little experience in this area, and may do more research on the subject, so I feel okay about that.

I will use the highest grade adhesive sealant I can which is that marine grade

$33 3m 5200 (06504) Permanent Bonding and Sealing for Boats and RVs Above and Below the Waterline Waterproof Repair, Black, 10 fl oz Cartridge

3m 5200 series sealant.

 

Somewhat good ideas get overlooked.

 

No actually. If anyone is interested of the three big vendors for truck shells apparently only snug top offers vented windoors for the short bed Tacoma. But vented windoors have their own issues for example security risks. A roof vent doesn't have that problem, and it allows the heat to escape at the apex; its hottest point the center and the top of the roof. But now we're off topic so I'll leave it at that.

 

Well actually you could add some clamshell vents on the sides near the roof line. No, they wouldn't be on top and no they wouldn't move as much air but they're secure and as you drive they create a vacuum that pulls air out.
ex. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/seafit--stainless-steel-clamshell-vents--P012_363_001_507

The big downside is going to be that as they pull air through you will pull dirt/dust into the bed.

And then there's always the solar vent fan like I posted in your expo thread. I like the simplicity of the flip vent though and am interested in seeing your description when you put them in.

Incidentally, tape the area to be cut and drill pilot holes starting with smaller bits. There are bits/blades made for cutting fiberglass to reduce splintering. A Fein Multimaster style tool would work well.

 

Oh , sorry , I thought you meant you had solid sides

 

Thanks! I was not aware of the clamshell option, those are cool! It may be possible to make a custom filter for the clamshell thing too. If the two-way aluminum vent isn't enough I will definitely look at employing active cooling. I have a 96AH aux battery, and 75 watt solar in the truck full time, so I can run pretty much power any +12v accessory I want.

Thanks to everyone who have contributed to the discussion, very helpful!

 

Whatever you decide to go with I'm definitely interested in seeing how it turns out. I really need to do something with my black shell also and like you I have a rack on top so I need clearance for my boats.