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Old Man Emu: Questions, Answers & Pictures

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by 4Wheelin4Banger, Jan 15, 2013.

  1. Jul 5, 2014 at 5:06 PM
    #4841
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    and yes get used to checking things over periodically.... a must when modifying suspension
     
  2. Jul 5, 2014 at 5:12 PM
    #4842
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Thanks Jace

    After the initial install how soon should I check to see if things need retorquing?

    Also, how often do you grease the shackles?
     
  3. Jul 5, 2014 at 5:26 PM
    #4843
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    I'd check roughly a week after the install then a couple hundred miles after.

    As far as greasing the bushing, do it whenever you do regular service or when it starts squeaking.
     
  4. Jul 5, 2014 at 5:33 PM
    #4844
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to tomtom again.

    :eek:
     
  5. Jul 5, 2014 at 6:54 PM
    #4845
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    what he said^ and before trail runs
     
  6. Jul 5, 2014 at 8:53 PM
    #4846
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    I'll just keep asking questions.

    Again... 1998 V6 1st gen Tacoma

    I bought the Revtek diff drop kit to install in order to help with CV angles.

    After reading many threads on yotatech, TW, and ttora I'm questioning whether I should install it initially or wait to see if I need to.

    My questions:

    1. On yotatech there's a big debate that using the diff drop kit changes the angle of the differential enough that the pinion bearing gets oil starved. Some on yotatech claim it does, others claim it doesn't. Can anyone speak to this?

    2. If I'm going with 881s and no spacers, will my CV angles be bad enough to correct with the diff drop? Or, as a thread in the 2nd gen forum says, should I wait until the lift is in to see if there's any vibrations. If so, then install the diff drop.
     
  7. Jul 5, 2014 at 9:32 PM
    #4847
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    You're thinking too much. ;)

    1. Diff drop kit is easy to install.
    2. 881s are short

    Logical conclusion: install 881s. Do not install diff drop kit. Check angles and drive vibe. If looks/feels good, do not install diff drop kit.

    OME designs their lifts as a complete package with the intent of not needing extra modification. When you get idiots like me that want 882s + 1/2" TPS, then the intent of the OME design are blown.

    PS: I ran with 881s for a couple of years and didn't know what the hell a diff drop was. Everything was fine. :)
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2014
  8. Jul 5, 2014 at 9:42 PM
    #4848
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Okay... while I have your attention :eek:

    I also bought a carrier bearing drop kit.

    Should I install that right off the bat or go with the same approach as the diff drop, ie "wait and see?"

    When I spoke with Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters he recommended both. I don't know if that's just him covering his butt or what. And for the record, he doesn't sell either, so it wasn't an upsell type of thing.
     
  9. Jul 5, 2014 at 9:44 PM
    #4849
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    I'm not running one... ;)
     
  10. Jul 6, 2014 at 12:06 AM
    #4850
    Echodawg

    Echodawg Well-Known Member

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    Stuff and Things!
    For those that have installed the 885x and the CS047R leaf pack, does it sit level or is there any rake?
     
  11. Jul 6, 2014 at 7:30 AM
    #4851
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    im running a diff drop, but i have alot of lift.... up to u, never seen bearings suffer because of dd. maybe those people should fill there diffs correctly:)

    x2 thinking too much lol

    i didnt run one forever til i started relocating my axle and lifting it more than just the dakars in the rear.. still no vibes regardless, just better driveshaft angles at full droop
     
  12. Jul 6, 2014 at 8:22 AM
    #4852
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Alright.

    I won't install either the diff drop or carrier bearing drop kits. And see how the CV angles and drive line act.

    Thanks guys.
     
  13. Jul 6, 2014 at 10:14 PM
    #4853
    ArcticTacoma

    ArcticTacoma Member

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    I finally joined the OME club this weekend. I installed some 885's, Nitrochargers, LR UCA's and a Dakar leaf pack. I still need to install the extended brake lines when I have a 2nd person. It was a lot of work doing it by myself. I also installed a 30" OKLED lightbar and gave her 2 coats of wax! I'll get it aligned in the next day or two. No vibrations on my first test run - fingers crossed.

    OME 885, strut, and LR UCA.jpg
    New Dakar leaf pack.jpg
    30 inch doublerow OKLED lightbar.jpg
    New suspension, lightbar, and 2 coats of wax.jpg
    Wax job.jpg
     
    trktwo likes this.
  14. Jul 7, 2014 at 11:15 PM
    #4854
    shr133

    shr133 Well-Known Member

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    K & N filter, 275 70 17 Cooper AT3, OME Nitrocharger shocks, 884 Springs, Dakar leafs.
    Vid from Silver Lake sand dunes.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Av_AlIrMN48

    OME is working great. I run 4 low in 3rd gear with the OME I was running 3rd and 4th gear... The shocks are dual valved, low speed for a smooth ride and high speed for bumps... you can see from the vid the slower I go the more movement and bouncing, the faster I go it smooths out. The vid doesn't show how rough the dunes are but you can see me passing a stock truck on the exit hill, 10-15 mph stock 30-40 OME... The suspension and motor were running so good last year I got 16MPG on the dunes this year 10 MPG and I over heated my tranny fluid. Now I'm adding a cooler and amsoil fluid. Over the smaller stuff OME works great, the big bumps suck because you have to slow down than it goes into low speed valving just better than stock and it can bounce bad but on the steeet drives like a caddy...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-4VkRoIBC4
     
  15. Jul 8, 2014 at 8:47 PM
    #4855
    ajwhlr04

    ajwhlr04 Well-Known Member

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    I saw somewhere in this thread that the center pin collar should be 3/8" tall, but it seems like it's still too long - like they will hit the axle. Here's a couple pics.

    Consensus?

    IMG_5781.jpg
    IMG_5782.jpg
     
  16. Jul 8, 2014 at 9:11 PM
    #4856
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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  17. Jul 8, 2014 at 9:25 PM
    #4857
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Here's mine

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Jul 8, 2014 at 9:49 PM
    #4858
    gtokarski

    gtokarski Well-Known Member

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    Should be fine once you put the angled shim on it. What size shim do you have?
     
  19. Jul 8, 2014 at 9:59 PM
    #4859
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    The thinner collar allows it's use with or without a shim
     
  20. Jul 8, 2014 at 10:15 PM
    #4860
    ajwhlr04

    ajwhlr04 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, this is what I'm going for because I'm starting out with no shims, and will order if necessary. If I do need to shim I don't want to take apart the leaf pack once it's installed - I want to be able to undo the U-bolts only, and drop in the shim.

    I'll be cutting the spacers to .170 height tomorrow.
     
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