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It's finished! Pulled an all nighter and got the floor done! What a pain. There is a lot to do still, as I will have to go back and get further up the firewall, the back wall needs another layer, and that stupid bar across the back will likely get the expanded foam treatment. I didn't take a lot of pics, and dead tired so will post everything after the weekend. Taco meet in SD this weekend and going camping today. No rest for the wicked.

Raamaudio (always imagine a sheep/goat bleating this name) is one way to do it, but the purpose behind doing a CCF layer and a MLV layer is to decouple to minimize the sound traveling through the materials. While it is effective, Raamaudio still needs a MLV layer, which makes it more expensive than using CLD tiles.

As far as hours go, good grief, stopped counting after 40hrs. I went over-the-top with getting CCF in between all the wires, panels etc, so most installs will take drastically less time. I only want to do this once, so go big or go home! Weeeeee...

 

I just put some anti-vibration on the inside of the panel where the strap retainers are. I put some strips of CLD and CCF on the body behind the B and C-Pillars, CLD/CCF/MLV on the back wall. I put some left over 3M acoustic behind the top C-pillar panel beside the back window. There is a lot of noise that comes from the rear tires on the bottom of the C-pillar and the holes for the air-recirculation on the top edge of the back panel under the corners of the window. I also put some CLD tile and then 3M Acoustic in the C-pillar area behind the lower seat belt retractor mechanism. I then inserted a thin piece of mylar plastic (had some overhead transparency 8.5x11's that worked well) between the 3M and the seat belt retractor mechanism and taped it to the body so the 3M didn't interfere with the belt retraction. With the windows down, the rear seat belt strap catches wind and vibrates in the wind a lot. Although I personally haven't experienced that C- pillar panel vibrating when the windows are up.

Here are a couple of tips I would also add in this thread to make things go smoother and save some trips to the parts department.

Here is an excellent Headliner removal thread 2012+ that I bookmarked - this one has step by step w/ pics and helped me a lot with that part:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...-dc-interior-head-liner-removal-write-up.html

Also as a general rule when putting things back together, remove all the retainer clips from the truck door/body and insert them in the trim panels. Particularly the V shaped white retainer clips for the small black trim panels on the top of the doors. Just squeeze that clip together with your fingernails to get them out of the door and pop them into the backside of the panel. If you don't remove these, some will break off into the door when you try to pop the trim back in. Overall putting all the retainer clips in the backside of the panels makes reinstallation much easier. Most of the clips come out still attached to the interior panel but some clips break when you twist the panels around to remove them, some of the heads break when you pull the panel out and some just stick to the body but can be popped out with a putty knife and reinstalled on the backside of the trim piece.

The two red clips for the top of the B-pillar trim panels in a DC were the worst for me on re-install. It has a tab on it and has to be twisted to the right position to receive the top trim panel. I tried removing those red clips intact and never could. So when I dropped my headliner, I had replacement clips on hand and just cut the originals off with a putty knife and rubber mallet, saved me 30 mins of twisting the B-pillar top trim to get them back in.

I would also have about 10 of the 10161's on-hand for reinstalling everything on a DC. The Red retainers are the 11111's and if you don't take the V shaped clips off the door, you will need some 58010's (and comparing the price with the others, Toyota is most proud of these). Here are the clips and part numbers:

 

Extra parts are very, very important. Fortunately for me, there is a Toyota stealership a few block away (I made 2x 5 min walks of shame) to the parts dept. Bought extra panel clips (the white cone/Christmas tree ones 90467-10161) and ended up replacing about 10 or so. There are a few other types of these clips, and managed not to lose or break any. A few of the white panel clips had to be drilled out (just like a rivet) on the pillars where you can't get to the back to free them.

As far as layers, philosophy and practicality, it really is up to you and your truck, however I found Don's site the most useful, comprehensive, concise source on the interwebs.

The essentials are resonance and sound insulation. Going from there leads to many paths, however there have been numerous explorers before us and the results speak for themselves. By all means, what fits your budget and maintains an acceptable level of return on your investment, cool deal. Just don't expect an extra layer of something else to take the place of another type of material.

My goal is to simply make the cabin as quiet as possible. Ideally i think going back it would have been to install 2x MLV layers and take a lot more time really fitting it perfectly and figure out a way to get into the nooks and crannies where the sound is now predominantly coming from, however it gets expensive and time consuming to maddening levels so your mileage will vary. For me, it has been worth every penny, and clearly not worth the blood, sweat, tears and lost sleep. If I had to do it all over again, yea probably...it's a learning experience and ask me again after time has healed the emotional wounds. What doesn't kill you, doesn't kill you, so really was only out some sleep and I can make up after I am dead.

 

Agreed and well said- you captured my sentiments exactly!

 

Check the door handle (lock and opener) where it attaches to the door itself. There is a picture in post 14, you can see where the CCF is behind the cables and the door opener/lock. I was able to easily place a 1/8" CCF sheet behind it and took care of a nasty rattle there. Also, check the lovely, well crafted door switches. Take them out and smack them against the palm of your hand, listening for rattles. Try putting SMALL drops of silicone or in my case, Lexel (great performing stuff) where the individual components come together. If you don't want to put caulking there, try slipping some CCF into the crevices. When replacing the switches, put a layer of CCF around the interface (like a gasket) between the switch and the door panel.

 

I was quoted around $1500 (some places were more, some less) do this project from a few shops, and that was only with a layer of Hushmat or dynamat (inferior methods) throughout the cab. So instead, I have about $800 invested and did this in my free time. Also, I know it was done right, nothing is broken, and I only have myself to blame if something goes wrong in the future and how to fix it.

 

I totally understand the shops ripping people off. It's a ton of labor to do it right and they charge out the ass for it. I got 2 shops to give me quotes on my Honda Civic 2 door which is already 100% gutted. Just need the materiel and labor. Shop 1 was $1200 Shop 2 said to take it to shop 1.

 

Long overdue, here are the pics from the floor. There isn't really anything fancy or a bunch of tips for this, besides what was mentioned before like finding the worst resonance, tiling it and then working out from there.

The back bench/wall was very involved and required a lot of materials and there was some extras.

Red dotted boxes are the tiles, if you can't see the tile where there is a box, its on the backside. This happened for several reasons, mainly just got in the habit of putting the tiles where there was just more space for materials regardless of if there was plenty of space to put it on the outside. Also, there were spots that all the separated the cab from the outside was a crappy plastic plug, so anything like that got a piece of CLD tile put on to cover it up. I also marked the tiles where the hole was so they are easily identifiable in need be.

I am going to take the rear carpet/seats out again to do some more layering, and skipped the under seat storage area for then. I pulled an all-niter and had to skip to save time, but rest-assured, it will get covered.



The rear wall is a real piece of work and was a huge sound source. The center bar that you see exposed is now filled with 2x layers of CCF and MLV that was "fished" through. The cool MOLLE panel that nat is selling will be going in and there will be another layer put in with that to seamlessly cover the back wall so I only have to measure/cut fit when installed. Trust me, 3x layers probably won't be enough...it's like a damn sound hole.

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The rear vent

After doing the floor and getting everything back together, I took it for a test drive and lo to my dismay there was still a metric ton of road noise, most of which was coming from the rear vent. So the solution, and hopefully this makes sense, was to make a baffle/muffler to route the air/noise up and around. This was accomplished by making a MLV "taco" that creates a U-shaped vertical space around the vent that goes up into the pillar. Under the vent, between the floor and vent bottom is Thinsulate, along with 2 layered sheets in the section that goes back into the cab (on the left, vertical arrows). There was also a piece of MLV "tape" (as Don calls it) glued to the rear wall layer to close off where the MLV "taco" interfaces with rear wall. It made a vast improvement, although when closing the doors, there is more resistance because the vent has been impeded. Clearly some fine-tuning will be needed to find the sweet spot between deadening and allowing air through.

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Front Floors

This was probably by far the easiest and straight forward to do the tiles, CCF and MLV. There was a good amount of crappy factory deadening on the metal and rather than rip it all up, just put down tiles as per usual. Find the resonance, apply tiles and work outwards.



Where you see orange was extra CCF, either on top of the MLV or under the component to isolate it from the floor metal. The air ducts are tricky and with the added materials, became very snug and at times frustrating to get them back to together again. CCF and MLV was added under the floor vents with ease. Essentially, there is a large stitched together piece of MLV on top of CCF that covers the entire floor from the rear seat riser to the firewall and over the console. Extra CCF was added/wrapped to insulate any components, wires, cables, etc. Sorry for the lack of pictures, and I was so pressed for time along with being sleep-deprived, it just didn't happen.

Getting the products up the firewall will be another matter, and will need some extra layers as part of phase two as it is extremely difficult to access the area behind the dash w/o removing the dash as well. Remember that "point of diminishing return"? Sigh.

PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS IF IT SEEMS I MISSED ANYTHING (because surely I did) AND WILL HAPPILY EXPLAIN THE DETAILS!!
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I wish you had posted before I did mine! Good info.

 

subd

 

I found the roof to be the hardest to do, damn my shoulders killed!
AS for doing the entire truck, 80-100Sq should do the trick depending how much real-estateu cover but thats mostly everything.

 

I'm going to be tackling my back wall and came across your post. It your pictures are no longer available....

 

AW, I moved a bunch of stuff around...totally forgot about these. I will get them fixed asap.