New England B.S. Thread

Take her to skiball? Every time we go down to York I have to pay ski ball. My wife even got some pics of her and the bridesmaids playing since we got married right behind the arcade at the union bluff hotel.

 

That's nearly old enough to start reporting back to mom...

 

Perfect

 

Dude...what do you think the $10.00 worth of taffy was for....

No ski-ball..just beach all day...

 

Well, I'm the proud owner of a pop-up.

 

She'll notice. She'll narc on him

 

Congrats!

 

Nice. I think a pop-up is the absolute minimum equipment I could get my wife to go camping in, and even then she's more of a 40' gooseneck with multiple bump-outs type of "camper". Consequently, I don't and have not ever taken her camping.

 

My only concern going with a switched positive is that I believe most door pin switches ground when uncompressed and break ground when compressed, correct? I've not seen too much in the positive switched door pin.

Haven't heard back from OTRATTW yet regarding their product selection, but we will see.

Eventually I want to do a similar setup with underhood lighting (hood pin) and my inner-Fast and Furious fanboy wants to put some LED strip lighting on the inner pinch weld under the truck hooked to the dome light with a 3-way switch for puddle lights...but that's maybe a bit much.

 

It depends on the switch you're using, some work by breaking the ground, others actually have 2 wires off of them so you can control the power with them. If you're using a ground switch, then things would need to change a bit. You'd have to run your power through a fuse, then to the LED bar, then the ground goes to the on-off-on switch. One on would ground to the frame so that would be a constant on, the other way would be to the grounding switch. That should work out fine, the only snag would be if the switch is lighted, that makes things a little more complicated.

 

Yeah...I was thinking of going the negative ground route...a bit confusing compared to a standard circuit, but then I'm only tapping the truck wiring once.

One last small point I'm thinking about is the inline fuse from the truck's wiring...since the LED amp draw should be reasonably low, I'll want to use a low amp inline fuse to protect the circuit. However, if I'm using a low amp fuse, will that fuse also receive power back from the main truck...ie if the new circuit grounds and completes, will the electrical flow from the truck flow back through the new small fuse and potentially overload? Hopefully you follow what I'm trying to say.

 

If you're tapping into an existing circuit, it will already be fuse protected so you don't need another fuse, just make sure you're not overloading the existing circuit. If you're running from the truck's battery, you need a small fuse to protect the truck's wiring.

As to the flow, electricity will only flow in one direction. Whether the switch is in front of or behind the accessory, the concept is the same. DC flows in one direction but needs to be a complete circuit in order to be operational. If you cut the wiring at any point along the circuit, the end result is the same, the circuit goes dead. With that in mind, where the switch is in the circuit is irrelevant.

 

Ah, okay...I've been caught up at work discussing 3-phase and generators and whatnot...I was thinking you could backflow the power across the small fuse. It's been a long day.

The amp draw is on the order of 1.7 amps @ 12 VDC according to the info if I utilize the full run of 300 lights (0.017 per 3 lights)...I'll have to figure out what is on the circuit, but I believe the tail lights are part of a 10 amp circuit...

I'd love to know what type of safety margin Toyota uses on their circuits as far as a momentary load. I really don't want to run wiring the length of the truck if I don't have to...I like the idea of having it complete compact in the tail light itself.

What's your thoughts?

 

Apologies. You're a clever man.

Congrats! Pics?

Girlfriend is the same way. I used to go camping all the time, just toss the gear in the truck and disappear for the weekend. Now...not so much. She won't tent, and I won't buy a camper. So now we're limited to the weekends we feel like driving out to either my parent's camp, her parent's camp, or a friend's camp (all are not close by). Plus I can't get her to go camping between November and May.
Womens.

 

On a side note, I might be getting back into a classic car. Well, truck. I had a '73 Mercedes some years ago that the GF and I used to take to classic car shows (free admission when you bring an old car!). Lately I've been getting the itch to get another classic.
So tomorrow night I'm going to go take a look at this thing. Guy wants to trade for a bike, so I may ride up on a Suzuki and drive back in a 1960 Dodge.


But, we'll see. I'll have to crawl around under it and look for trouble spots, and confirm the work he says he's had done on it, obviously. But from the pics he's sent, it looks like it's in pretty nice shape.

 

Nice..what did that set you back?

 

That would be a sweet ride if it's in decent shape

 

Not quite as lofty as some, but just got this last night. Not mine, but same color..have some work to do.

 

You should buy this truck. It is as immaculate as it looks in the picture.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/4522865388.html

 

I think the factory of safety is generally pretty high. Think about the headlights, low beams and high beams all have their own fuse for each side and they're 10A fuses. A bulb on high beam draws about 5.5A and it's protected by a 10A fuse. My feeling is the stock wiring would handle the extra 1.7A as those T-connector wiring kits for trailers draw from the stock wiring and are generally fine. That said, if you have one of those t-connector wiring harnesses, I wouldn't run both at the same time.

The tails are part of a 10A circuit. That 10A circuit just runs the marker lights I believe on all 4 corners of the truck. Brake lights and directions I believe are separate if I'm not mistaken.

$2k

Here she is, not mine but the same thing: