Bilstein 5100's to achieve 2.5" or 3" Lift

I have a 2011 DCSB 4x4. I installed the Bilstein 5100's front & back. I also had the TSB (4-leaf) done to the rear. I would like to lift the truck to either 2.5" or 3", but would like to avoid changing the UCA's, if possible.

1. What do you recommend I set the front 5100's at and with what spring, if necessary, should I add?

2. I heard I can add a Eibach spring (or similar brand) to the front 5100 and achieve a better ride and performance. What spring part # would that be and what setting should I set the 5100 in the front to achieve a 2.5" or a 3" lift with that spring?

3. What size block should I use in the back with the 5100 and 4-leaf TSB for either 2.5" or 3"? What brands out there do you recommend? Level or small rake would be fine.

 

I ended up emailing Toytec directly and this is their response,

"You can set the 5100’s to the top setting with your stock coils and you should see about 2.5”. You can also use our Eibach coil part # 112-620 http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/...ings_p_14.html which if you set the shock setting on the 2nd clip (from the bottom) you will see 2.5-3”. The coil is an upgraded coil from stock. You can also use http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/...cks_p_360.html which will give you a fully adjustable coilover. This is designed for the 5100’s. I would recommend a 1.5” block in the rear to pair with 2.5-3” in the front."

I then decided to go with the Eibach coils and also asked about alignment issues with drive axles and he replied,

"Using the Eibach coil, which is longer than stock on the 2nd setting will give you more performance than the stock coil on the 4th setting. Less preloading and a longer coil will provide better wheel travel and ride. The coil is also a little higher spring rate so it will handle additional weight of a bumper/winch. Either option doesn’t affect the other components more than the other. Up to 3” you should be fine. We do offer a front diff drop kit to help with CV axle angles. It is pretty easy to install and not too expensive either. It does help a little with wear and tear on the cv axles when you lift the vehicle. http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/...-Kit_p_11.html

The 1.5” block kit is here - http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Rear-15-Block-Kit-includes-U-bolts_p_17.html"

This is what I plan to do as soon as my XD Misfits (18x9) with 285/65/18 Nittos come in. Hope this helps!

 

Good luck! Looks like you have it all figured out

 

You'll be happy with the eibachs and 5100s at .85. The only thing I would suggest differently is looking into their progressive aal. Blocks have a tendency to prematurely wear your leaf pack and can promote axle wrap. The aal will also provide extra payload capacity that the block won't offer. The eibachs are a noticably stiffer spring, so as is you're looking at a stiff front end and what will feel like a soft or loose rear end in comparison.

 

If you can, I would recommend the Old Man Emu 884s as opposed to the Eibachs. I have eibachs because I got them really cheap. The reason I suggest this is because it will give about the same lift with 5100s set at 0 as eibachs with 5100s set at .85. Yes it is a stiffer spring, BUT the fact that you don't have to preload the spring so much will provide a better ride if my research is trustworthy. If this does not quite make sense please let me know.

As for what FluffyMonkey said, said, I agree and would choose progressive AALs any day, I also would not pay full price for blocks (an $80 block of metal?) and I would fork out the extra cash and get progressives for about 160-170. Extra cost I know but should definitely be worth it.

Don't look at my sig, it's old

 

I'm glad you brought up the rear blocks. I also thought it was a little crazy paying the $80 for the rear blocks, u-bolts and nuts. I checked last night at Auto Zone and saw a kit for around $30. Would this be comparable or a mistake going with this quality of block kit from Auto Zone? Anyone have experience using something similar, or is it better to stay with an $80 lift from Toytec? Comments or experiences on this are welcomed...

 

2013 4x4 DCSB TRD here. I put 886 coils on the front with Blistein shocks at zero. Got 2.5 in lift. Perfect allignment. Does not affect the 4x4 boots/drive shaft angle.
Then I put a 2 in AAL in the rear.
Sits level now.
I had Eibach and Blisteins on my prior truck. Both are good springs. There are some 886 coils on here for sale that are new. Look for them in the sale section.

 

I must remind you though, 885 and 886 coils are recommended for trucks with front end weight (wench, armor bumper) and may give a stiff ride if they aren't holding enough weight. Not knocking them though.

As for your block question I would think a block is a block, but I am not an expert and you can't trust the salesmen from either side to not be biased.

I still say go with a progressive in the long run. You will be happy you did and you won't have to worry about wearing your springs and causing axle wrap!

If you are dead set on blocks, though, I would just get 1" or 1.5", and 2" would be pushing it. Those sizes shouldn't hurt too bad. I have heard of people using a block and an AAL. Will you be offroading or pure street like me?

 

I must add: Look in the 2nd Gen Marketplace before you do anything!! I saved about... (mental math, please hold) $155 on 4 5100s + $110 on Eibachs, + $50 on AALs/Leaf pack just from buying from TW members! Granted, this is at the cost of the parts being *lightly* used.

Overall saved: $305
Overall spent: $215 + $50 + $35=$300

I saved more than I spent!!

 

what would the Eibachs on 5100 bottom perch yield for lift?
Just looking to level a 4x DC with maybe the nose a touch higher and fit 32s

 

1.6" is what they claim. On a DC? Maybe a tad less. Will ride good though, but keep in mind, ~1.6" of lift is not much at all. I went with Eibachs on .85" and got about 3" of lift, so maybe the coils themselves are more than 1.6"? Unless the guy who compressed mine set them to 1.75... Which is a bad idea.

I could care less about the rough ride because I love the way my truck sits.

Edit:
"A touch" is a good way to put what they will give you. Should definitely clear 32s... Maybe trimming?

 

I did not read all the posts maybe this is some repeat info.

1. No way to go to 2.5 or 3 without UCA's your truck will drive like $h!!. I know I tried it only lasted a few weeks before I purchased UCA's. I'm sure people will chime in and say that you don't need them but I would say drive a truck with and without and you will be buying a set.

2. I would say to purchase EMU 884's (this is my next purchase). I currently have my Billys at 2.5" and the truck looks great but stiff as hell.

3. I would get an AAL 1.5 since you have the 4 leaf pack the block is normally not recommended. You will probably need new U bolts with the block when the 1.5 AAL will use the stock U bolts.

Hope this helps check my build I'm at 2.5 front and 2" AAL (stock 3 leaf pack) in the rear dead level.

 

If you want the three inches, i recommend the OME 885x set at 0. It's what I have on mine and it rides better than 2.5 on the stock coils. If you look at the OME coils on toytec, it says that for a double cab to go with 885 and a top plate spacer. This will give your 3 inches and better ride than preloading your coils. I have it with no UCA, and no problems.

 

Really? Interesting... I read that 885s required ~90lbs of weight. I am willing to bet 885s would be better then preloaded eibachs by a longshot.

I also use no UCA and even without aligning after the lift it rides just fine. And when I align it it should ride even better. By ride I don't mean comfort, but steering & Handling. Go for the UCAs if you've got a wad of cash, but if not, try it without them first. A second day of wrenchwork is worth it to know if you need them for sure.

 

do some research in the suspension and lifts section. Make sure you note whether the comments are related to prerunners or 4x4. Also note whether they have armour on the front. I did my research there and settled with what I have and have had NO ISSUES. The OME springs will settle after you ride around with them a little while. Do your research.

 

I read somewhere that they're the same spring rate as 884 just a little longer for more lift. But i got it mainly because what it says on toytec about double cabs will get three inches with 885 and top plate

Edit: don't quote me on the spring rate. I may be wrong

 

You may be correct. I have found the stats before but can't now, plus I'm at work. Although since 884s are supposed to give 2.5", maybe 885 would give closer to 3 in which case you then "need" UCAs?

The extra weight recommendation must be so that it achieves the same lift as 884s. 884=885 with weight(sagged)

 

I do not plan to put a winch on the front or armor bumper. Maybe a bull bar at the most. So the weight should be near stock.

In regards to the blocks vs. progressive, I will rarely drive off-road. Only rare occasions when camping off the beaten path. No rock climbing or aggressive terrain. Do you still recommend the progressives? How much do they run and what brand or type do you recommend?

 

I got a 1.5" aal from toytec for 90 bucks and now when i have a trailer on it doesnt sag the rear and it rides the same. But i also have upgraded shocks all around so its much better than stock garbage they put on them at factory. Rode in a truck with blocks on a dirt rode and it rattled my spine in half and im 23!

 

How long or how many miles have you been running this set up? What size top plate spacer did you use in combination with the 885 OME coils? I may go this setup to get the 3". I want to make sure these 33's (285/65/18) fit. What did you do to your rear? What size blocks, progressive's, etc? Are you level or slight rake?