Magnaflow versus Flowmaster ~ Showdown on the Dyno

Now those above urd y pipes are $500. The shop I go to did this for me (essentially same thing)



Cost me $270 and that included the muffler. So if you went to a muffler shop that knows what they're doing, they could replicate the y pipe without any questions. May not be as pretty and may have a few tiny creases, but saves a shit ton

 

No offense, but if it's not smooth outside it's not smooth inside that pipe. I can count several kinked and restrictive bends on that pipe. You maybe should have found a better shop that could of done mandrel bends rather than those kinked ones that interrupt flow. Again, please take no offence, but I could of made that pipe in a shop. I'll just order the flawless URD and maximize my results.

 

I see a few problems with the Y in your picture. The merger of the two halves, will cause a restriction, as the exhaust pulses from either side can go into the other, as well as towards the muffler.

You already mentioned the kink bends. Those cause restrictions, but I am sure you are aware.

Then the most important piece which is missing from the exhaust shop version, is...dun dun dun.... some form of a flex coupling.

The URD Y-pipe utilizes the same style flange where it bolts to the catback. That way the OEM donut gasket can be used, as well as the spring bolts. Which allows the catback to flex at the flange of both the OEM y-pipe and the URD Y-pipe.

Without that gasket, or a stainless steel flex coupling, your exhaust will soon crack. Some where. There will be exhaust leaks, no matter what.

 

No I know I was just saying for $270 I got the the pipe and the muffler, not saying it was perfect at all, I didn't ask for it to have minimum bends and creases, I just told them to remove the cat. I'm just saying if someone is looking for a cheaper solution, a muffler shop could recreate what you want but cheaper. Obviously material and workmanship is why it costs $500. But without the muffler, the shop quoted me $125 to redo that section in multiple pieces to reduce the bends/creases. So max hp/TQ the $500 are worth it, but for $/TQ and $/hp the "custom" job at a muffler shop is a better buy

 

Undertsood, read the post above. It was a shitty example no doubt I was just showing the options for people who may not want to drop $500

And about the cracking, I had the same shop pipe my Subaru (gorgeous job) with a nicer material, minimum bends and had no creases at all. Did the same thing with the flange as you stated, so there was no flanges. If was on there for 3 years of racing and beating the shit out of my wrx, and it never cracked. So I guess it's who you get it done by

 

Just to get technical, in your course you more than likely talked about closed systems and not an open exhaust. The results will be dirastically different for an exhaust system over, let's say, a coolant exchange loop or steam loop at a nuclear power plant. Even though some of the base principles and the physical laws are the same there are differences when the gas is not regulated to a consistent flow. I took a lot of fluid dynamics in University, trust me .

Secondly, there are huge differences between the way you want a supercharger set up and a turbocharger. The main one I always think of when it comes to exhaust is that you DO NOT EVER want any valve opening overlap on a turbocharger, but you absolutely want it on a supercharger. For a supercharger this is a great way to get a little extra cooling in the combustion chamber which helps decrease pinging and increase power. For a turbocharger this will cause a backflow problem since the exhaust will pressurize and damage to the turbo will occur.

True dual exhausts like I think you are suggesting would be sweet, but ultimately more than I need and a PITA to fabricate. I think with the Y-pipe upgrade I'll have relatively free flow compared to the stock y-pipe .

 

Or you just got hella lucky.... Don't take one experience to mean it's a good long term practice.

 

Don't get me wrong, I 100% understand what you're saying, and I completely agree too! The urd y pipe for our truck, and an exhaust system built for our truck specifically are going to flow better, have better gains, look better and hold up better (the better material) and is just all around the choice to go when you have the money. But for someone who's looking for similar gains, but no where near as much, has other options. But a $300-$500 cat back system and a $500 ypipe is an expensive investment. Where as for max $400, could have a muffler shop pipe and put the muffler on for you. The $1000 investment will be the max gains and best results, but for half the cost or less, you can have a similar set up.

 

Close on the course but no cigar haha we studied open flows, and actually a few applications of exhausts. It wasn't fluids 1, I was in advanced fluids and computer aided fluid design, but you are right, relative principles apply

Again, learn something new every I didn't know they were different in that aspect, which you are correct, is a different set up between them

It would be a pain, but admit it, you want a unique taco that's a monster?! Do it!!!!!

 

my family has been going to the same shop for 10+ years, so we trust his work. he's done 12+ vehicles for my family/friends, and no matter how ridiculous the set up, he listens to exactly what you want and produces quality work. Which is hard nowadays to find, someone you can trust to do the work and will do whatever you please.

 

Absolutely, great shops are few and far between. Sometimes a willingness to work out the kinks and a smile go a lot further than perfect products.

 

Exactly! thats why he is the only person i go to, Id love to spend $1000 on a perfect set up, but when i can get 80% the quality and pay half the cost, is definitely worth it!

 

Did my first fillup with the Flowmaster because I was really curious so see how the mileage was. This time was about 25% freeway driving so the mileage jumped up to 25.1 mpg. The Flowmaster certainly didn't hurt my gas mileage any. And that was with a fully loaded truck and still all of the usual crawling up and down steep roads in first gear. I'm totally pleased.


Greg

 

I totally understand. The muffler guy that does my work is really good so I go back to him again and again.


Greg

 

If it's unclear to you, it's really unclear to me... even after contacting URD.

I'm totally in the dark...

I couldn't even get a straight answer to a direct question of whether or not their MAF calibrator would even work on my 2.7. All I was told is that they don't have a fuel map for my intake.

Does anyone here know who makes a MAF calibrator that works on a 2.7?

Greg

 

Pretty sure it will work on almost any thing with a maf sensor. On their website they said they put it on a Camry and I even think they said they tried it on a Lamborghini and a Ferrari with great results. They don't have fuel map for your intake, but isn't it user tunable can't you tune it to your intake.

 

The maf cali is a generic sensor modification tool. If you do some searching the cali can be used with just about any sensor. For your 4cyl, I would suspect they dont know the wiring that needs tapped or spliced into on your ecu. Also the cali comes with the software to make your own maps, but you do need to have readings first in order to properly adjust the map cells.

If you dont have a map you are basically starting from scratch, its not rocket science, but does take time effort and sensors/sensor reading tools. This is the value urd brings to the maf cali for the 4.0. Some think its the cali itself, but its actually the maps.

 

First off thanks for your response, Lurkin.

I'm getting nothing from everywhere else.

That's the problem. Like you, I'm also relegated to guessing with no clear indications of whether or not it would work, or even why it won't work.

I have lots of precise open loop A/F readings from all the dyno runs I've been doing. For my truck, they all clearly indicate exactly the same lean condition. I even sent the latest A/F chart to URD... crickets.

Ok. Assuming that a MAF calibrator would even work on a 2.7 (who knows?)... and just for example, if you saw an open loop A/F chart from 1,000rpm to redline. Would you have at least a general idea of how much to move the the values to compensate for the original A/F ratios? Or is this just a totally blind crapshoot?

Well, one thing I'm not going to do, and that's buying something just to discover that it won't fucking work on my truck.


Greg

 

That's great. Now if I could only get a straight answer whether or not it'll calibrate the MAF sensor on my 2.7;

From the little I've found it appears to be. But what I don't know is whether or not it will even work on my truck in the first place.

Greg

 

Yes if it will work on a Camry, it will work on your truck.