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New England B.S. Thread

Discussion in 'North East' started by mach1man001, Feb 16, 2012.

  1. Jul 9, 2014 at 11:01 AM
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    Lmao I'll have to look into that
     
  2. Jul 9, 2014 at 5:00 PM
    replica9000

    replica9000 Das ist no bueno

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    Lake Chargoggagoggmanchauggagoggchaubunagungamaugg
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    My truck sounds like shit. Something is rattling underneath, leafs are squeaking, throw out bearing is squeaking, clutch is squeaking, and now the brakes are squeaking.

    Anyone have a recommendation on brake pads?
     
  3. Jul 9, 2014 at 5:20 PM
    Sloth

    Sloth Baby Ruth?

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    I replaced mine last fall with the vatozone Gold's. So far so good, good stopping and no noise
     
  4. Jul 9, 2014 at 5:22 PM
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    Probably need to rip of the heat shield. I bought rotors and pads from LCE for my 95, really added some stopping power running 33s.
     
  5. Jul 9, 2014 at 5:26 PM
    Erik65

    Erik65 Dog slave

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    Congrats Alex!
     
  6. Jul 9, 2014 at 5:29 PM
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    What's this, Alex is gonna get his learn on?
     
  7. Jul 9, 2014 at 5:32 PM
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    Thanks dudes! I'm excited!!!
     
  8. Jul 9, 2014 at 5:32 PM
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    Attempt to at least
     
  9. Jul 9, 2014 at 5:40 PM
    replica9000

    replica9000 Das ist no bueno

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    Lake Chargoggagoggmanchauggagoggchaubunagungamaugg
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    It's probably another rusted/broken clamp. I'm also looking for pads that don't produce a lot of dust. Ive heard ceramic pads are pretty good. I'm on the original pads at 60K. The rotors look alright. I'll probably work on them this weekend.
     
  10. Jul 9, 2014 at 6:46 PM
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    Good move on your part. Tough it out and get that degree, it'll pay for all your hobbies in the long run.


    Yup, could be a clamp too. Measure the rotors, if they are within spec just get some new pads.
     
  11. Jul 9, 2014 at 6:50 PM
    replica9000

    replica9000 Das ist no bueno

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    Lake Chargoggagoggmanchauggagoggchaubunagungamaugg
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    Happen to know what that spec is? Any special tools needed for those if I need them? They should just pop off if I take the calipers off right? I've done pads before, but not rotors.
     
  12. Jul 9, 2014 at 6:59 PM
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    No idea what the minimum is for the rotors, but I bet it's on TW or googles.

    When you unbolt and hang the caliper you should be able to pull the rotor right off. If it's rusted some you can give it a gentle thump with a weighted mallet and it'll come off.
     
  13. Jul 9, 2014 at 7:46 PM
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    Hopeful quitting my jobs and living on campus will help me focus more. More free time for homework and studying without running from place to place
     
  14. Jul 9, 2014 at 8:44 PM
    nickonfire700

    nickonfire700 Reg. Cab Nation Member

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    I would buy ceramic brake pads, as they produce less dust, and last a good amount of time. Carquest has good brake parts as well.
     
  15. Jul 9, 2014 at 8:47 PM
    emelianenkov

    emelianenkov Santa/Alex Emeliahoweveryouspellhislastname

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    I love my EBC Yellow stuff pads
     
  16. Jul 10, 2014 at 5:38 AM
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    I had the Autozone Ceramic pads on my Tacoma and really liked them. No noise and low dust. I also used Autozone Duralast rotors.
    In theory, yes they should just pop off but they usually don't. If they've never been off before, chances are they're rusted on. There are 2 threaded holes in the rotor face, thread a bolt in and it will push the rotor off. I beat on my with a rubber mallet and they didn't budge, put a bolt in the jack hole and they popped right off.

    The bad thing I noticed about Autozone rotors was they didn't have the threaded jacking hole so if you plan on keeping the truck through your next set of pads, OEM might not be a bad option just so you know you'll be able to easily remove them.
     
  17. Jul 10, 2014 at 5:58 AM
    Sloth

    Sloth Baby Ruth?

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    Morning all. Got in my truck this morning and found this...
    syve6a2y_820fcc3a07bc5ba7c6625b4df436cce6e2dc638d.jpg

    jebypavy_d7875792c9a3497ba8fa22553b41c746793c255a.jpg

    Thought I heard something fall while driving home yesterday, but couldn't find it. Guess that's what it was...
     
  18. Jul 10, 2014 at 5:59 AM
    Sloth

    Sloth Baby Ruth?

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    To help slather the hub and inside of the rotor face with high temp(copper) anti seize
     
  19. Jul 10, 2014 at 6:19 AM
    BostonBilly

    BostonBilly Well-Known Member

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    Jason I have used ceramic pads before and will use them on my truck again when I need them. They are typically better stopping and less dust. I would recommend doing the rotors at the same time whether they are within spec or not. Most manufacturers give the bare bones for tolerances and they will have the tendency to warp. I have seen on my own truck a brake pulsation come and go. Also rotors are fairly cheap and definitely easy to change. You pull the caliper to change the pads anyway, all you have to do is remove the two bolts for the carrier. I remove this anyway to make cleaning of the pad slide area easier. Then you either hit the hub of the rotor with Alex's hammer or there should be a couple of jack bolt holes. The rotors will add Tenn minutes to the job
     
  20. Jul 10, 2014 at 6:50 AM
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 [OP] eh whatever

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    Actually you do not have to pull the calipers off to change the pads. They are held in by little pins at the top. Remove the pins, puch back the pistons and remove/replace the pads. Takes about 5 mins each side. Very simple
     

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