Suspension Installation Questions

Going to be ordering my new suspension soon. 5100's all the way around, OME 881 coils, but haven't decided on leafs yet. I'm brand new to this, so I was wondering what other parts will I have to buy? Such as, will I have to use anything over from current suspension on the new suspension? And if so, what will it be because with 179k miles on the original suspension, I don't want nearly broken stuff put on with new suspension. Also, what kind of tools will be required to do the job?

 

I haven't done suspension on a Tacoma, however on the two other vehicles (Jetta and ranger) I bought all new poly bushings with my coils. You'll need an impact gun and impact sockets, and a nice sized air compressor to run that. Overall it's an easy job, just time consuming. I can't remember what else I needed that was specialized but that's all the main stuff I think.

Oh I borrowed a spring compressor for the coils from autozone. That was easy to use, and free.

 

I have installed 2 of these. Gives a average of 2 inches of lift. I let them install the springs on the struts. Only thing I needed was my 300 lb. neighbor to stand on the lower part of the shock with the sway bar loosened. Takes a morning to do, or longer if you are slow. Also helps to have a small hydraulic jack to help with the last leaf connection. Large 6 sided MM sockets and a torque wrench and find a way to support the axel while doing it.

 

I recommend the Dakars for the rear. When you get the rear springs be sure to get the extended rear brake line. I also recommend new bolts for the leaf springs. Be sure to get the front and rears and new U-Bolts. I ended up cutting off my spring eye bolts to get the dam things off. You should also ask if the rear leafs come with new rear bushings. I can't remember if I bought mine separate or if they were included. Either way it's only a couple of dollars. Be sure to get a brake proportioning valve relocation kit as well. Also take an honest look at the rear shackles. If they are rusty you should simply replace them.

As for the front. I ended up with braided front brake lines as I wanted better feel in the pedal. Not really necessary but for the minimal cost I did it. Changing out the front is pretty simply but the top nuts on the struts can be a pain if they are rusty. I do highly recommend that you have the struts assembled by whomever you buy the kit from. It really makes life a whole lot easier.

One last note. I ran 5100's for years and they worked just fine but I always thought they were unusually stiff. It wasn't until I installed the OME's that my suspicions were confirmed. Not telling you what to do but i would consider the OME's all around.

 

As long as you don't have to cut off seized ubolts or spring hangers, an entire install can take less than 4 hours using hand tools. My front end took 30 minutes, tires off to tires on. All you need to do is pull the swaybar links and you can muscle the struts in. The leafs were also very easy using the ratchet strap method. I have pics in my build thread and using this method, I had no problems locating the axle and didn't need a bottle jack or anything to help get the leafs connected.

 

Get new u bolts as those are a one time use part and greasable shackles. The shackle bolts like to seize to the sleeves and the grease helps prevent that and gives you a smooth ride as well. Rear leafs are easy, connect the shocks last and you should not have to wrestle with anything.

 

Quick question, for the OME 881's, do I need to get the top plate spacers and studs?

 

How much of a price difference was it for the OME's? And how much lift will it give? Cause I don't want too much of a lift since I'm not the only person that drives the truck. Parents will drive it every now and then if they need it and I'd hate for them to have to climb in.

 

A full OME kit from Wheelers (coils, leaf packs, struts/shocks, shackles, rear brake line, ubolts, BPV and exhaust bracket) will cost $1400ish which includes shipping and having them assemble the struts. It'll lift about 2.5".

 

Damn that seems expensive. Is there anywhere I can get that for a little less? And would the 2.5" lift make my truck look weird? I'm on 265/70/R16

 

I'm running 265/70R16's and it looks fine to me. You can find "kits" that are less but you'll often have to buy extra parts. Bear in mind too that I'm referring to a complete suspension upgrade. You can put OEM coils on Bilsteins for less than than OME or Toytec coils but the ride quality will not be the same. Same is true with an AAL vs. new leaf packs.

 

265/70/R16 on OME 3" lift.

 

I want to change everything out. OEM suspension has 179k miles on it and I've read that the OEM suspension is anything but comfortable. Is $1400 a good price for all of that?

 

It was too me. You can get other kits from Wheelers or Toytec that are cheaper but this was the only "complete" kit.

 

Hmm, I'll have to think about this. Because I need tires as well. So if I were to get the kit, I'd have to buy used tires until I can afford new ones

 

I paid $1400 for the full OME kit (plus and minus some parts I needed and didn't need) delivered to my door.

 

This is a tired saying but buy once, cry once.

I priced out dozens of lifts, everything from AAL, to spacer lifts to Bilsteins using OEM coils. In the end, adding the odds and ends would have cost as much, if not more and I would not have liked it as much.

$1400 was painful but worth it in the end.

 

I wasnt really looking for a lift kit, just an upgrade from the original suspension. My shocks are worn, my coils are worn, and my leaf springs are flat. I heard how bad the ride quality was on these trucks when they were new so I didnt want to get OEM replacements.

 

Wheelers can set you up with a stockish hight suspension. I didn't want any lift at first, but ended up with 1"+ after settling in. Ome 880s and wheelers 5 leaf packs. Did not do 5100, but something cheaper. Grease-able shackles and eye bolts are a must, also u bolts, break line and proportion valve extension. Still going to be over 1,000.

I had broken leafs and worn shocks. The improvement in the ride was tremendous. You notice the lift getting in and out. May get nerf bars some day.

 

Well I would like the front to be even with the back, which is why I was going for the 5100's. Since they're adjustable, I thought I would just put it to the right setting. But after crunching some numbers, it seems like the OME seems logical.