New England B.S. Thread

Damn... That could have been terrible for a passenger in the event of an accident. Glad it fell just when driving instead of failing when you really needed it.

x2, Toyota got that part right. In Kendra's Accord, to change the pads, I had to pull the calipers and get some stupid special tool bullshit to reset the piston

 

Even better. I would still take the time and effort to clean everything and swap out the rotors

 

Ya it's weird. Easy to put back, I'll just make sure to use a little blue loc tite.

 

FTFY

 

Same here, have to change to brakes so infrequently it's worth it to do the rotors too.

 

Really depends. Some of the guys with newer models are running through pads before they hit 30k miles. I don't know if it's because of the traction gizmos or what but if the rotors are still in good shape, no need to even mess with them (plus they're like double the cost of the pads so why waste the money if you don't have to). I made it to 70k with my stock set so I replaced both but no way I would have done so if I just needed pads at 20k miles.

 

I don't see any other loose clamps under my truck. I could be the shield wrapped around the cat, or it could be the dirt sitting on top of the shield above that.

 

I don't have time to take the wheel off, but this is what my rotors looks like now.

 

O ya, forgot about the fancy traction stuff

 

But he is at 60k so I would still do both. I would be pissed if I only got 20 to 30k out of my brakes, funky traction shit or not. That would be unacceptable for me

 

Jason those pics look good. Nice clean rotor all the way to the hub but that is one side of on side. As stated earlier by others you can measure them to see if fthey are in tolerance, but I still stand by changing them. What is the price of the rotors and pads compared to just pads? Then think about what you have for free time to do this job twice plus the aggravation factor. In the end it is your decision.

 

All I have is ABS. Even then, it's been disabled for some time.

Looks like a pretty easy job as long as nothing is rusted on. I'll look into rotors over the next couple days. I'll probably just go with OEM if they're fairly priced. If not, maybe slotted rotors

Edit: Looks like OEM rotors are around $60 each. I'll just get those with ceramic pads.

 

I agree, but it seems to be very common no days. I just replaced Kendra's pads front and back under 30k miles.

The rust shouldn't be an issue, just use the jacking holes. I did mine at 70k miles and they popped right off. Also, if you off road, I wouldn't bother with slotted rotors, that's just a great place to get rocks and grit jambed up. Blacks are more than adequate for a truck.

 

Got laid off

 

30K is crazy. Did you find any reason whether mechanical bind, adjusted to tight or is she heavy on brakes (a lot of stop and go traffic)?

 

From which job? Now you can collect

 

I want to do this sooooo bad .

http://www.vermontoverland.com/vot/

 

Bummer!!! Which one?

 

The shop