Box Rocket - 2003 TRD Doublecab

I did an in-cab snorkel yesterday. HUGE drop in intake temps from before. ambient temps here in Utah have been in the mid 90s this week and my intake temps have been hitting about 114*. After this mod, my intake temps didn't get above 80* today. I'm more confident in the waterproofness of this than I was my Safari Snorkel and with the air being pulled from the cab dust/dirt in the intake will be almost zero.

Materials consisted of one 3" flexible coupler that was used to mate the stock airbox to the new tube. One 24" piece of 3" ABS tube. Two tight radius 3" 90* elbows. One 3" 45* elbow. A couple hose clamps, some scrap thick plastic and some black silicone.

I needed to enlarge the hole in the inner fender just a bit so the 3" coupler could fit. I cut a 3" section of the tube to mate the airbox to the first 90* elbow with the coupler with two hose clamps. The sections of tube are roughly 12" long each and connected via the 45* elbow. It enters the cab just behind the firewall through the side of the inner fender directly behind the blower motor in the passenger footwell. I cut the hole there with a 3" holesaw. BE CAREFUL if you do this mod that when you cu that hole you don't hit the wire harness that is behind it. I pulled the glove box so I could get access to the area and just pushed the wires up and out of the way as best I could. All connection seams are glued/silicone'd including the surface where the tube passes into the cab.

One thing of note for anyone that considers doing this, the first 90* elbow closest to the airbox will not fit behind the fender without some clearancing. I needed to cut a section of the tube out across the corner of the elbow. I used some scrap plastic that I cut out from a garbage can and used JBweld to epoxy it into place to fill the hole and then sealed the seams inside and out with more silicone.

Pics. This shows the intake before cutting the hole in the fender into the cab. The hole was cut just above where the radio antenna cable comes out of the fender.


Hole into the cab is cut.




The second 90* elbow in place along with a short section of 3" tube that enters the cab.




and all done


Here's a pic that shows that area that I cut out of the first elbow. Sorry I didn't get photos of the hole and the patch.

With the fender back on there is nothing about the intake that is visible, even inside the cab so it's a clean solution. Just know that it does add to the noise inside the cab when on the throttle. Hopefully I can find some foam to use as a baffle inside the tube that won't cut the airflow but will reduce some noise.

 

Don't know yet. I have maybe 30miles on it. If you judge it by the sound of the throttle I gained about a million hp! But honestly there might be small gains but I wouldn't count on anything significant.

 

How is the noise?

 

At cruising speeds it's not bad at all. maybe a slight increase in noise but definitely livable. However, when you're on the gas its a different story. At WOT at 5K RPMs it is LOUD!

 

do you have photos of the interior install?

 

I knew going into this that noise was going to be a potential issue, but figured I'd try it. Now I can respond to those considering this mod with some firsthand experience.

Today being the first day driving it I can tell that long term it's going to be too loud. Honestly the freeway isn't the issue its the around town stuff where you're constantly in and out of the throttle that is just too much noise. Just got back from picking up a couple new parts that I think will solve the issue. I'm going to pull the section out where it enters the cab and weld the hole closed. I've got a 3" elbow with a 2" branch that will work better I think. The new elbow will have a screened cap pointed up toward the top of the fender for the new air inlet location. This should be relatively protected (although not ideal for extended deep water). The 2" branch will point down and have a cap with a small drain hole at the low point so any water or condensation has a place to escape. Here's a quick photoshop of what I've got planned. I'll take care of this over the weekend and call it good.

 

Did you try it with a heavy HEPA style filter? Or maybe a couple filters in route? Or do you think too much air flow would be blocked?

 

still too much noise at WOT

 

Yeah, you've got me thinking how to solve this problem. I'm looking into making my truck more of an exploration vehicle so I have to think about raising that intake port.

 

More intake fiddling. I think I've got a solution that is going to work well. It's more or less the same as the stock configuration but better sealed throughout, and with the upturned inlet it should make it a bit harder for water etc to make it's way into the intake. Along with the short drain section at the low point for any water to escape. I still plan to make some new inner fenders but this seems to be working well.

Noise levels are back to stock, no discernible change in power or mpg. Intake temps were at 87* on my 30 mile commute today so they're only slightly warmer than they were in the cab.

Here's a couple pics of the "final" setup.

This pic shows how I had to shave one of the elbows and patch it. I little ugly in this pic before I cleaned up the JB weld but you get the idea.


from the side. You can see the new inlet is the upper part of the end nearest the cab. It has a pipe cap with several holes drilled and a mesh screen behind it to keep small rocks etc out. The branch in that piece pointing down is to drain out any water that might make it's way in. It has a cap as well with just a small hole large enough to drain out water but shouldn't allow much of anything to get in that way.

 

great work Adam!!!

 

thnx Joe!

 

Now that seems like a very well done solution. I like it!

 

Snapped a couple new pics of the fenders since I finally got a chance to respray the clearcoat yesterday. I think they turned out pretty nice considering it's 100% rattlecan. Color and clear is a pretty close match to the factory paint. Had the color custom mixed into rattle cans and used Rustoleum clear coat.











One more of the intake under the fender. Can just see the very bottom of the drain below the fender lip, but high enough to not worry about tires rubbing.

 

looks great! How fun was it getting them to fit?

 

Damn good solution. Does it inhibit the airflow much?

 

Nice work !!! I'm debating this approach on my roof. Got a few chips up there I never caught, and they've rusted.
Did you spray outside ?

 

Box Rocket apologies if you don't want questions on your board.

I've made it through about 50 pages of your build, and read quite a few OME threads. You seem like a good guy to ask specific OME questions.

I have a 2004 tacoma TRD V6 4x4 ext cab, 6' box. Pretty much all stock in weight except sandbags on a permanent basis, and likely keep it that way for a while.

I was originally considering a complete OME setup with 881 coils in front, dakar in back. After seeing a number of pictures, and reading about 881's, the 881's are on the lower limit of how much lift I want, and some claims of settling/sagging make me think it will be way too low.

I noticed pre-bumper install, you were running 882's and Dakars with the D6XL AAL. In your opinion would this setup with a stock bumper, and maybe 80 lbs of sandbags in back be ok comfort wise post-settling? I mostly drive highway and logging roads. I'd also be looking for a small amount of rake but not huge. I'd also install a diff drop. Tires will be and are 265/75R16 ~31.6x10.5".

I'm concerned about too stiff a ride, and too much CV and drive-line angles.

Thanks and please let me know if you want me to move this question.

 

No problem with questions. I suggest you look at Madjik Man's build since he just installed OME suspension with a similar goal in mind. If it were me I had your truck I would use 882 coils if you are worried the 881s will not be quite tall enough for what you want. The 882 has the same spring rate but just a little taller. I would order the Dakars as well as the extra leaf and install the leaves without the extra leaf first and see if it give you the stance you're after. The extra leaves are only $50 and a piece of cake to install so you can add those later if you think you need them. For me I found quickly that the gear I was carrying was too much for the Dakars without the extra leaf. The extra leaf did not affect ride quality at all.

Your drivelines will be fine with that setup. If you're on the original CVs the boots are probably pretty dry already and regardless of the coils you choose it's likely that the boots will tear after the lift is installed. That's just common for all trucks after they are lifted. It's not a guarantee. I tore one boot on my truck within the first two weeks of the lift going on. The other boot lasted about a year after the lift.