TORSPD: NEVR

what caused the low oil pressure/starvation issue tor?

 

Dr. Torspd.

 

Glad you saved the engine!

Thank you

 

Would you recommend the same for us folks that went TRD SCer?

 

hmmmmm last burnout left a belt screetch to be heard

 

There is a light. It will work. Just not for a little while longer. Things will be even better than this time around......Epic Foreshadowing.....

It is Ok enough to be fixable.

My misunderstanding of the system. I am no longer depressed about the damage. Yet rather relieved tgat it did happen. As I had trusted it to be built a specific way, and didn't feel it necessary to disassemble it when I received it. This forced me to take it apart. To find out its secrets.

You're welcome. When are you going to get one? I'll make sure to give Ares some breath mints next time you come over. Lol

Best thing for me to say is let someone else who isn't me, express their opinion on it. I don't remember if there is a Gates Racing belt for the TRD s/c. Although I do know of a thread on XRU containing the part #'s for both the s/c belt and the accessory belt. If I had the TRD, I would definitely find a suitable Gates belt. Much better than the Gatorback belt. I could look and see if I can find a matching belt for the S/C if you are interested?

If only it ran long enough to do a burn out.....

 

Here is the truck, as it now hibernates.....




Prior to hibernation, and before being able to hear the rod knock, I was still in the "prepping for tuning phase." Had Kozmic Motorsports add some additional bungs into the y-pipe, for N/A tuning.




The more interesting and astonishing pictures to follow later.......

 

.........nooooo...lol

This anticipation is seriously killing me. How do you get by? Haha

 

If you get a chance i can just imagine how you busy you could be.

 

With my spare engine on the engine stand, we were curious to see what exactly was allowing the crank to walk an unbelievable 1/8". Well when I turned the engine over, to evacuate the remaining coolant in the passage between the heads, there was a metal clinking sound. Turned the engine back over, to make sure what ever was in there, would be in the lower pan. Told Robert that I bet it was something with the thrust washer. Here is what we found.







Damn thing puked itself out, to our amazement. First time I noticed it, was when I installed the sprung hub twin disk, after having it swapped from the solid hub. We were taking measurements for the clutch, to adjust the throw out bearing. Probably should ha e taken it apart then, but it was working fine. Lol.

So drove a countless amount of miles on it as well as raced on it without any catastrophic damage. It should have ripped itself apart, in all actuality. Simply amazing! All of the cylinders were fine, but you could see where the bottom of a few pistons had dings.



Bent oil squirter. ^^^

Main cap which was used as thrust bearings.





Even pulled the #2 main cap to inspect the bearing for abnormal wear. The only abnormality on the bearing, is my finger print.





The crank has clearly visible wear though.

Two things to take note of hear. Quality thick oil. Redline 40 weight with their Engine Break-in oil, and a magnetic drain plug. Those are what kept that engine going when it should have destroyed itself. Also also due to the amount of allowable travel between the rod end and piston. Which unfortunately isn't shown in the pictures.

 

Rock solid engine we've got in these things. that was a true test of durability, and has shown that toyotas roots in overbuilt reliability are still in the ground.

3rd to last picture is quite an eye-opener. that's some serious heat.

 

Amazing, you push the envelope, sometimes the envelope bites back (with an occasional paper cut,,, that may get infected and cause you to lose your tongue).

Lead, follow, or get the frik out of the way. Wonder which one you are!!!

 

I'll show you some heat........

Definitely no quiter.

 

Nothing a little JBquick can't fix?

Jk

Unbelievable though.

 

Wouldn't be the first time that I've used JB Weld.

 

Those rod ends, are both from the built engine. Rod #'s 1 & 2. # 1 is the discolored one. Three rods have discoloration, which also means bad bearings.

New rods and bearings have already been ordered. Here is the engine still in the bay, oil pan removed.

 

OUCH!

 

What's more of a sting, is that those aren't ARP main studs, and I never had to remove a girdle.....

 

so some critical steps were missed that are key to achieving your power goals

 

Bingo!