Stripped Union/breather hole on rear diff

So i attempted the rear differential breather mod today. After wrapping the union threads with teflon tape i installed it on top of the differential. Apparently I may have torqued it too much. The fit is snug but i can still screw and unscrew the union by hand.

How big of an issue is this? I'm afraid that the seal won't be sufficient and could cause issues. Could JB weld around the outside of the union where it meets the differential be a solution?

I'm hoping all I need is a new union, which I have already ordered.


Thanks for the advice..

 

If you stripped the threads in the housing, the correct way to fix it would be to yank the old breather or union, retap the housing and then install a union or breather to fit the new threads. I would NOT JB weld the differential. If you do not have a good seal and that crap gets into your gears, you could be up a creek of feces without means of propulsion. If drilling and tapping is not an option, high temp silicone sealant around the union could work but is really only a temporary fix.

 

If the new union is the same size as the first, you will likely have the same issue. You can get one size larger to hopefully rethread itself or use more of the teflon tape to fill the gap. After the new one is in, you can then JB weld around the bold head to seal it up good. Although it is probably not the best way, it will work.

 

I put a lot of serious thought into that response

 

So the threads are definitely stripped. Just spins round and round no matter which direction i turn it. Is a trip to the dealership in order for me now?

 

tap it for a standard npt thread and call it a day.

 

The union is stuck in the diff. Just spins and won't come out...

 

x2, and make sure you flush the diff fluid after tapping to make sure you get all the shavings out. A dealership might not help you as they might not be willing to run a tap into your differential. They are more apt to replace a part than perform a simple fix (case in point is most dealerships will replace an entire drive shaft rather than replace the worn out u-joint). Dealerships are not specialty or machine shops. If you want your differential tapped and do not wish to do it yourself, you'd be better off finding a reputable local auto shop that is setup and willing to do that work.

 

It will come out, just need a little bit of want to. Did you try lifting with some pliers and spinning at the same time? I'm not sure how it can free spin but not pull out.

 

If the threads on either the union or the housing are stripped, there is nothing to thread against. What he is describing is exactly what happens when you strip the threads off something.

OP, try some vice grips on the union (lightly, do not crush the union, just tighten up on them enough to grab it). Unscrew and pull up at the same time like ChiefManyWrenches suggested. You're trying to make the unstripped threads grab something so you can continue to unscrew it. Even after it seems like it's grabbing, keep the upward pressure on it as you unscrew.

 

If there is a gap between the union and the rear differential housing, wedge a flat blade screwdriver in that very same gap, and apply gentle-ish leverage on the screwdriver like you're trying to pry the union up & out of the housing.

At the same time, use an open end wrench or pliers or channel lock or whatever you were using before to loosen the union. Remember...lefty-loosy & righty-tighty.

Note: No amount of fooling with photobucket, MS Paint, or my iPhone4s will allow me to post this picture so it shows right-side-up lol. Sigh.

 

I'll be away from the house until Sunday . I'll definitely try the techniques y'all mentioned. Thank you so much for your concern and input. Taco guys gotta stick together

 

Great advise!

And BTW, the pic show fine for me, I bet it will for you too if you clear your browser history and then re-open the thread

 

Heh thanks for that handy tip.

 

I'll let y'all know how it goes. Already have toyota service on standby :/

 

Can't fit any type of flat object under the stripped union. Looks like a trip to toyota service and the walk of shame is in order :/

 

If you have a set of vise-grip pliers, try crimping those on the union without crushing it too much, then pry up on the vise-grip jaws instead of trying to get under the union lip. I'd pretty much try anything before making a trip to the stealership for a fix like this...

 

This is also good advice.

If you've decided to take it to the dealership, please don't feel ashamed. Accidents happen to the most meticulous/skilled mechanics. The dealership should be looked at as a great resource (as long as the service manager and mechanics are good to work with) that is available to help (even IF they are a bit pricey) in tough situations.

 

Myself, I'd avoid the dealer on this one even if you've come to the end of your rope on correcting this yourself. For one, your powertrain warranty coverage on your rear diff may be compromised in the future if they have this incident on file for your truck. I'm not saying you've caused an internal problem, or that there will be any long term issue, but they will have record of your "tampering" after your visit that may cause you headache if there is any unrelated failure down the road.

Secondly, if you know of any good independant shops you'll likely get as good or better result than the dealer for less $$$.

Was the nipple you used brass? If so, there is a very good chance the threads in the housing are near perfect, and only the NPT threads of the nipple are stripped. There is most likely good thread on the nipple past the housing, causing it to hold in.

 

I've literally tried all of y'all's advice including applying some heat using a hair dryer and nothing has worked. Leave it to me to find the best way to break something I'm on my way to the dealer tomorrow . Not giving up , just want to make sure I don't royally jack something up trying to free this union from the differential. Again , thanks to all of you for your advice and for being kind to a newbie .