What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

id be willing to trade my all pro baja tube bumper for it. pm me maybe we can work out something

 

So true, 1st world problems! Haha

 

PM'd.

 

That's really not untrue.

That's fucked up.

 

damn that was fast haha.

 

The earlier years of the 1st gen tundra had the 199 calipers (s13we) Toyota decided that the brakes needed revised on the later models and put the 231s on from there on out (s13wl) and those that had tundras with the smaller calipers got the new, bigger ones fo free.

 

Yeah I know. I love the look of the thing. Hell, I've wanted one since I was a kid! But it just pulls the nose of my truck down too much.

 

Installed a trans cooler.

$51 Hayden 678 Universal Rapid-Cool 9.5” x 11” Add-On Transmission Cooler – Not for Direct Replacement of the OE Cooler

Hayden 678... Engine bay sure is dirty ha

 

Just FYI the ARB only weighs around 80lbs (w/out a winch)

The All-Pro tube bumper weighs 65lbs (+10lbs for the hoops).

Before you go thru all the trouble of swapping, just know you're only gonna save 15lbs or so. If you're ditching the winch it'll bring the front end up a bit, but if you're retaining the winch the results will be negligible.

 

you try a 10mm or 1/2" top plate spacer?

 

thats a good point. plus with the skids thats another 50-100#

 

I feel it. Guess theres always that time when function beats form ..

edit: just from the weight? or is it because the bumper hangs lower than the AP and you literally have less clearance?

yea but wouldn't the AP skid(s) be lighter than a OEM fit R.A.T. skid?

 

You beat me to it. I just got done searching all over to find the weight of everything on my rig. For those interested, the ARB weighs 78lbs without winch. The All-Pro weighs 65lbs without headlight hoops. My Smittybilt XRC Gen2 9.5k weighs 78lbs with the steel cable.

So, I have ordered a Fire Wire synthetic line to save weight instead.

I just put in a 3/8" spacer and longer studs. I was told that was just about as far as I should take it. It did make a difference. I think it's worth mentioning that I installed some 1.5" wheel spacers at the same time I did the top plate spacer, and that is causing some rub.

All that ^^ being said, let's hold off on this swap.

It was the weight. I think I may be considering some stronger springs also. I have the 620lb Eibachs as of right now. I'm going to start looking into other options. I just don't think there are many options without going to a true coilover.

 

Sounds good man! I have the synthetic line on my winch it makes a hell of a difference

 

Who told you that and what was their reasoning? Mostly curious.

I'm running OME 882s (500lb/in) + 1/2" TPS w/ an Elite front bumper (guessing 110lb) Budbuilt IFS skid (55lb) and Warn m8000s winch (55lb w/ synthetic line). Fairly happy with the setup.

One day I will go to Icons but more to match my UCAs.

 

Cool. Did you bypass the factory cooler? I had the TRD (Hayden) style cooler inline of the factory cooler. After my accident I used a tru cool 4454 and bypassed the factory cooler. My temps so far are 180 in city driving. The tru cool and b&m coolers have a bypass built in for cold flow.

 

So I have an annoying squeak squeak squeak squeak that comes from my drivers side wheel when driving. It stops of the brakes are applied...and starts right up once u let go...any idea what this may be...this started after I installed the new rims and 33s...like right after I left the shop...I have no clue what it is...maybe pcbuilder can chime in? We have the same set up. I don't recall him having any issues with this set up

Tia

 

what rims did u get? maybe the rim is rubbing on the calliper

 

I put it inline, after the oe rad cooler. I know the Hayden doesn't have a cold fluid bypass but I'm not concerned. There are tons of vehicles out there with trans coolers that don't have bypasses and they're just fine. Plus with it inline the rad should warm it up a bit.

 

jack it up remove the wheel and the caliper and turn the hub. bet you have a wheel bearing going and when you push the breaks its aligning back up and stops squeaking