HID Install How To (For ambiguous retrofit)

Relay (5-pin) between the switched source and the halos.
Connect the switched source to 30 and the halos to 87a (insulate 87).
Connect the low beam to 85, ground 86.

When the headlights are on, it'll open the relay contact.

They'll come on with the high beams... you could wire yet another relay identically using the high beam to 85 (both relays in series), or you can connect both the high and low beam wires to the same relay by running through a pair of diodes so they don't backfeed.

 

Awesome.......tempted to do another retro.....

Rich, do u think tapping into the side markers would cause premature halo death since when i disarm the truck, the side markers blink twice, stay on till the key is inserted into ignition then they turn off.

.....then if its nightime ill be turning lights on, thus activating halos. Pretty much 3 cycles right there if its dark

Plus a cycle when the truck is armed.


(i ordered my truck with aftermarket alarm and don't know if they all do this)

 

That's my concern too, premature failure of the LED Halo's...currently I have mine wired to my fog lights but I am considering re-wiring them to my original plan -- to the DTRL so they will run 24/7 and also blink with the turn signals. DATSIK has his wired this way for at least a few months and he hasn't had any issues.

Also -- for the issue with the HALO relay harness from TRS. Got word that they will be fine without the harness. The harness would be a great option for those who want the HALO's to come on with the headlights, they have a harness that will power them off the HID ballasts. Essentially plug and play with no cutting of stock wires to achieve HALO's on with the headlights.

 

LED halos are not a problem.
You can strobe those 24/7 and they'll survive.

It's the CCFL halos that you don't want to flash.

Arming and disarming the keyless?
I'm not going to say that it's GOOD for the CCFLs, but I don't think it's going to significantly shorten their life unless you're running deliveries and other activities where you are constantly locking and unlocking the truck.
Personally, I would tie into a switched ignition source and call it good. They'll act as DRLs during the day and shut off with your headlights at night if you don't want them on (I see no reason to shut them off at night).

When I was referring to killing CCFLs in only a couple of days, this was with them connected to a traffic signal controller that was constantly cycling, 2-10 seconds on, maybe 30 seconds off. Some survived 24 hours, some made it to 48, but when we hit 48 and had more than 50% failure, it was obvious that CCFL was not the proper product for the application and we moved to an LED product.

 

Going to rewire my HALO's to my DTRL/turn signals then Thanks!

 

My TRS kit came with splitters that would allow me to run the halo's off of the ballasts when the headlights came on. I asked TRS what was needed to run them off the parking lights because I wanted the Halos on all the time. They suggested the 9006 relay harness and also stated it was needed to maintain warranty, true or not I still think the relay harness was worth the 25 bucks.
So basiclly it wired up like this:
1. Halos' go straight to the 2 relays. There is a ground wire on each end where the halos plug into the harness. I just put those where I grounded the projectors.
2. Power wire directly to the battery.
3. Input wires then got Ttapped into the parking light harness.
Poof! Halos come on full time with the key on.
Now mind you that I have a 2012 and the DRL's and parking lights are always on...i'm not sure how it works for other model years.
What I like about this installation is that I only had to tap into the truck wiring harness at one location. The halos will also disconnect at the connectors from the relay harness when the lights need to be removed.
It just seems to be the right way to do it.
I like that other than the truck controlling whether the lights are on or off the power for the projectors and halos is 100% controlled thru TRS provided equipment.

 

I still may go this route, $25 isn't much money. I got the info on the halos not requiring the harness from a TRS retailer, who talked to Trs direct. They will not void your warranty if you run without the harness. I clipped the connectors off my halo wires already so I'll have to come up with something if I go with the trs harness

 

Thank you sir..... +1 to ya, when I get to my PC

I knew I could count on ya for help

 

You do not need a separate harness to maintain warranty on the LED halos per Matt @ TRS.

 

Sub'd for future mod

 

Okay, now how do you wire them up so that they also turn off while the turn signals are on? If you go the one relay route, what kind of rating do you need on the diode? are they rated like wire gauge and fuses? I don't know much about diode.

Thanks

 

Diodes are rated for current and voltage.
50v is a pretty standard minimum. They don't draw much... you'd be fine with a 5a rating (fuse it at 4a or as close to 4 as you can get).

Off with the turn signals? Can't make them go off and stay off without a time delay circuit, but you can add another diode from the turn signal hot and have them flash off with the turn signal so they'll go back and forth... almost a wig-wag but only one side. Don't do this with CCFL... only with LED.

 

thats sick man i like it!
i want to do it to mine
so bad!

are RED Halo / Demon eye's illegal?
my truck is Radiant red

 

sub'd

 

Hey OP, can u remove the rubber gasket that covers the bulb and take a picture of it.
I am having a hard time figuring out how to modify mine to make the connector fit onto the bulb

 

Just cut the center open enough to clear the D2S connector... or TRS sells rubber "domes" that will fit the housing and allow you to cut a small hole and stretch it enough for the connector to pass through.

 

Yep, exactly what he said above.

 

I tried cutting the stock one.
But I made the hole too big, so I'm afraid moisture will get on from the big gaps.....

What size rubber should I get from TRS?

 

Is there a reason why my high beams aren't working?

 

Subs for an install soon. Hopefully I can I'll this wiring halos to dtrls off with out any hiccups kinda nervous