TORSPD: NEVR

Everything about the way this shop has treated you over the past 2 years is bullshit. You are a better man than me for holding it all together.

 

That doesn't help with crank walk..... sons of b*****s

 

Other things in development in the background, but moving along.







While speaking with the engineer at Carrillo, I asked him if he had any reports of the power that the UAE guys were making, with these rods. After some time searching through emails, he came back with an excited response. That they were making near 1600 hp with builds similar to mine, on their 1GR's! Not to shabby I say! Makes me feel like I am not pushing the envelope far enough. Lol

 

Also was referred a machine shop which can repair the crank, by a veteran gear head. Ends up that the shop is just a few miles from my house.

 

Lucky dog. You have a lot more patience than I do

 

What i really found lucky was that these rods were in stock. That I didn't have an 8 week lead time. Made me incredibly happy.

 

After three weeks of straight wrenching, I am taking a little rest. Then I'll pull the engine again, and get it all fixed back up. Hopefully it won't take more than a month to get it all back together.

 

Your resourcefulness and dedication are remarkable my friend.
Bravo!

 

Rest sounds nice.

 

Glad to hear you're getting through it bro, wish I could be there to help you out.

 

1600hp?! :O
D:<

I just wish i could have 450



Best wishes for the comeback Tor!

 

1600. FML

 

Figured out a way to get the spare engine back up and running. Reconstruction of that one is under way as we speak. Pulled the crank last night, ordered a new bearings for #2 rod, which coincidentally is a #2 rod as well. Lol. Ordered a replacement oil squirter for the damaged one, and all new rod bolts. As they are torque to yield throwaways. Those parts will be here today, as well as the 2JZ-GTE head studs.

The 2JZ-GTE head studs are nearly a perfect match for the 2005+ 1GR main studs. They are just ~.4" longer. The only issue with those, is that there are 14 in a kit, whereas there are 16 main studs needed.

This was also done, so that I can have an oil pressure sensor, regardless of the ProEFI being used.

There is a plug underneath the oil filter. A perfect place for a sensor. Remove the plug and install an adapter. 1/2"NPT to 1/8"NPT.

There is also another plug lower and on the timing cover itself. A little harder to see, but it has some rust on it. It could possibly be used as well. That plug is post filter, so if something is going on at the filter, it would be realized on the gauge

 

Back at it like a crack addict!

 

Gotta feed the fiend in me. Getting itchy all of a sudden.....

Here is the latest from yesterday. Prepping for some more unorthodox repairs.


Take a keen look and you'll see a rolled lip, compliments of the crank using that main cap as a thrust bearing. Got that all removed so the block's portion is left.








Should be close to finished by this week's end. Then I can swap it back in and at least be able to drive andenjoy my new TOB. Sigh. It felt so good for that short while. Smooth like it hhasn't been since the twin disk upgrade.

 

Where do you plan on setting your redline? I know that these motors are set at 5500 RPM due to the long stroke that creates a high piston speed (what's the accepted limit of stock, like 2000 ft/sec or something?) Since you lengthened the stroke with the stroker kit that means you will have an even higher piston speed at 5500 RPM than stock right? But since you are running some pretty hefty forged internals are you just banking on them handling the new piston speed at 5500 RPM, or are you going to raise it up to 6K or higher?

 

I'm raising it to 6k. I did the calculations some time ago, and determined that it was still within a safe speed window. Besides, I don't need to raise it any higher due to having such a long set of ratios. My gearing takes up anything that others might have to by adding RPM's. Plus, I don't want to add any extra stresses than I need.

 

I still hate that the fronteir has a higher redline than the tacoma

 

we weigh less and beat it in acceleration and stopping iirc

these pistons still fly when u do the math