Long Travel BS Thread

Going to have McNeil build me a bumper and have the paint done hopefully next week. Im trying to sell my right fender tonight and I've literally tired everything to get the antenna out. I tore apart the entire mount where it isn't even usable anymore.

 

Well I'd go off what wilwood said haha

But when your done with the rear do the front. Make the biggest difference haha

 

It would be ok I bet. You might even have to use a proportioning valve. As stated above, I would also upgrade the front pads and rotors. The thing that sucks is that if you get it wrong and it's not enough brake, you have to go back to the drawing board. Prototyping is expensive. Welcome to offroad.

 

New long travel shackles we made today.

 

^^^ they look beefy. Only thing I had to do to mine is basically weld on a .25" thick washer at each eyelet to standoff the shackle from the frame. The shackle rubbed against the frame on articulation. It might be an error on my part with too soft of poly bushings or my bushing collar is too long.

 

Thanks, we are gonna have to do a 1/4 spacer on the leaf side. It's pretty common. I think TC shackles have a 3/4" total different from top to bottom to help clear the frame.

 

I built more caster in them for a +2-3 lift so it will be fine. it's for STOCK. so no delrin in the lower arm. it's not a big deal.

 

A couple pictures of our 3.5" 05+ Tacoma long travel kit installed. Running King 8" shocks, retaining 4wd with our 4340 heated treated extended axle shafts.

 

Finally finished my little project.. new bushings, uniballs, new set of (used) coilovers, painting the frame, etc. Now to figure out how to mount this 2.5 reservoir thats way bigger than the swayaway reservoir without rubbing. and I destroyed my tie rod end in the process...it didnt want to press out and ended up warping beyond repair.

Any tips on adjusting limit straps?

 

Looks good, how's your limit strap current mounted? If you want it adjustable there's a clevis you can get. There about $25 each

 

They're on an adjustable clevis already just need to figure out length and what not, and thanks again for all the help man, Id probably still be trying to press those uniballs out if you hadnt offered to help

 

Are the clevis' already welded to the frame ?

 

The clevis itself is not, it runs through a little bracket (that is welded) next to the coil bucket.

 

That's what I meant. lol if it's not welded yet, you'll have to cycle out the suspension and tack the bracket on after measuring. Best to do it with the coil off the coilover and with no nitrogen in the shock so you can cycle the arms easier. You want to set your full extension with some room to spare before bottoming out the shock shaft. Also account for the limit straps stretching after some usage. Do the same for both sides. I was able to get 14" strapped to full bump with an 8" King coilover and the TC 3.5 kit.

 

haha my bad, yeah its already welded on there. I bought the truck used with the kit already on it two weeks ago but I took everything off to replace uniballs, bushings, and clean some stuff up. Im just trying to figure out exactly how much I should adjust the clevis, do I basically just let the suspension droop and jack the arm up a bit higher than full extension and set the straps at that? or is there a better way?

 

That's it in a nutshell. Just account for stretch if they're new straps. You can also put in a spacer in the clevis if you need it limit out sooner.

 

Sounds good, ill do that tomorrow, then its off to get a new outer tie rod end, and a much needed alignment

 

Holy moly! They will be lucky to get 20k in my opinion. Iv seen race trucks go for way less

 

True not everyone wants a race truck. But you never get what you have into a truck in return

 

I have about 25k+ into my truck. Still not finished. Guessing I'll have another 5k to finish it. All said and done way cheaper to have just bought a built race truck. But in the end I'd rather not think about what I have invested