2.7 dyno charts

Not with the Hawaii shipping cost.
I basically sold the muffler for $15!

When I work out my production costs I'll post the price, and it'll be fair.

Greg

 

Lol yah I know, now ur gonna have good karma!!!

 

That's funny... but you know it actually does work out that way.

Greg

 

Yes saah!

 

Got some more 2.7 dyno runs to post up. This thread is helpful in that they can all be found in one place minus a lot of surrounding text.

This is a head to head comparison between the stock 2.7 muffler, and a 22 inch long 5x11 oval Magnaflow muffler.



This one is a head to head comparison between that same 22 inch Magnaflow and a Flowmaster 50 Series Delta Flow muffler.



Here's all three together.



All of these runs were 4th gear so the speed limiter cut them off at 4,700 rpms. That's the equivalence of 110 mph.

 

This is run up to redline we did in 3rd gear to get around the speed limiter. Using URD's baseline 2.7 dyno run of 119hp 133 tq shows a difference of +28hp and +28 tq.

 

Just one more chart from the muffler shootout...
This is the Flowmaster compared to the stock muffler. The factory muffler line would have done better if it started at as a low rpm as the Flowmaster run. We actually got the dyno to begin recording at only 900 rpms. I've never seen any dyno chart begin that low.

 

Thanks, man.

Another item worth noting...
The stock torque peak is 3,800 rpms. My engine with the stock muffler hits its torque peak at 2,900 rpms. Now look closely at the Flowmaster run. It meets and surpasses the stock muffler torque peak at 2,800 rpms.

So now there is dyno documentation of three specific mods, all of which shift the torque peak lower in the rpm range.

1. LCE long tube header 650 rpms
2. Tooter intake manifold spacer 250 rpms
3. Flowmaster Series 50 Delta Flow muffler 100 rpms

With these mods the torque peak is achieved 1,000 rpms sooner than a stock engine... and as well all three increase the torque peak itself. This is an improvement of 25% over a factory stock engine.


Greg

 

crap now that means that I have to get a muffler as well as the header.. C'mon man.. youre killing my wallet haha

 

I hear ya... I spent almost as much on dyno testing as on the parts themselves!
But it's all in good fun.


Greg

 

It truly bugs me when shops don't scale the HP and TQ to the same numbers. Just a personal preference.

 

That's a good point, Tor. Jeez, I didn't event think of it I was so excited about the results.

I'll see if Harry can send me some forced scale charts. When I get them I'll replace what's posted.

Thanks,

Greg

 

Even better, see if he can give you the raw data. That way, it can be pumped into Excel and scaled and plotted any way you want! He was just plotting different runs and then saving the images. Hopefully there is a way to export the actual data. If you like, I can stop by on the way to work one day and have a look.

 

Good stuff, do you think that similar mods to my 98 2.4 auto will have similar results? My tires are only 195/75R14 . So far I have just replaced the air filter to an AFE.
My main goal is to achieve more power for towing / carrying a camper through the mountains.

 

I had a 1996 Tacoma with the 2.4 engine, and only did one mod to it... an LCE long tube header. This is a picture of it after 10 years.



It held up amazingly well and really helped the engine to pull stronger at low rpms. It's a straightforward simple bolt on, and replaces the single stock down tube with longer individual runners and bolts directly onto the catalytic converter flange.

I highly recommend it for your 2.4. It's the one accessory that will help your towing ability the most (besides lower final gearing of course).


Greg

 

Thanks, they are on the wish list .

 

What would you lower the rear end gearing to and how would that affect the highway speed? What would something like that cost?
I'm debating on whether to put some money into my 98 or to possibly buy a 2013 4wd access cab 2.7L . Will make the decision in 2 weeks if the new job works out and if the 13 is still there.

 

I don't know the cost as I've never done it. The end result of lower gearing is that the engine runs at a higher rpm given the same transmission gear and speed, so you would give up some gas mileage in exchange for more pulling ability.

It would be quite a change for you to go from a 1998 to a 2013. I know, as I went from a 1996 to a 2012. The new trucks are larger and heavier, but in some ways they're also nicer.


Greg

 

Yeah , I really like the extra space in the access cab with reclining bucket seat , cruise and intermittent wipers. But then again I like not having a car payment.

 

Awesome to see this information. Wish you could do it again with a stock air intake that has the "cold air intake mod". Then we can really see if that aftermarket intake is worth it.