URD MAF Calibrator Installed; Now Check Engine Light!!

Truck: 2012 Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4
Engine: 4.0L V6
Intake: Volant CAI (powercore dry filter) with intake scoop
Exhaust: TRD cat-back exhaust

I recently installed the Volant CAI intake on my truck (no issues), and after doing extensive research, decided to go with the URD MAF calibrator to maximize my gains from the CAI.

Shortly after receiving the MAF calibrator, I was told that URD did not currently have a map/tune for the Volant CAI system! Therefore, I was given a "blank" MAF calibrator, and told to tune it myself.

So, I contacted my local dyno shop, and got the truck in there this morning. We put it on the dyno and ran the software (Split Second R4 engine management) and he began tuning the map (results posted below). It was dynoed on a Dyno Dynamics dyno, which I was told, reads much lower than a Mustang Dyno (for what its worth)!

3 hours (and $350) later, we reached a plateau at around +16whp! During the process, we got several check engine lights; all of which were cleared with an OBDII reader.

I left the shop, and shortly after got another check engine light (P0101) along with the "traction off" light!

I have no idea what is going on, and based on this experience, I'm considering removing the URD (piece of sh*t) calibrator , reconnecting the ECU wires, and going with a Unichip!

 

10% increase is pretty nice for anything less than a blower. Sorry im no more help than that but do u no what that code means? I would say u have to be on a boarderline too lean tune, just rich it up a bit.

 

How the hell are you only at 150hp with the v6. Years ago I ran mine on a dyno and got 212hp at the wheels. That was with DT long tubes, URD TCAI, URD pipe bomb, magnaflow exhaust and no tune on the maf calibrator. I never did tune it because I couldnt find a shop that knew how to use the r4 software

 

The P0101 Code is for the MAF Circuit:

This is what it says:

P0101
• High voltage: Conditions (a), (b) and (c) continue for more than 10 seconds (2 trip detection logic)
(a) Engine speed less than 2,000 rpm
(b) Engine coolant temperature 70°C (158°F) or higher
(c) Voltage output of Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter more than 2.2 V (varies with Throttle Position [TP] sensor voltage)

• Low voltage:
Conditions (a) and (b) continue for more than 10 seconds (2 trip detection logic)
(a) Engine speed more than 300 rpm
(b) Voltage output of MAF meter less than 0.83 V (varies with TP sensor voltage)

I agree with you. You learned a very expensive lesson. Take the garbage off and return the truck to stock. 16 HP isn't worth the pain and expense and a broken truck.

 

I think your tune is just to aggresive. You should talk to Gadget at URD. He should be able to point you in the right direction.

 

I don't know man. What's the AFR? on the dyno sheet? Can't really tell if it's shit*y calibrator or tuner doesn't know what he's doing. I mean 150-163 hp? That's the same stock horsepower on my 22 yrs old integra with a VTEC 1.8L engine. Something doesn't add up including the CELs (check engine light) going off.

 

I spoke to Gadget shortly after receiving the MAF calibrator, and pretty much got nowhere with him! I was shocked to learn that they don't even have a map for the Volant CAI, yet they're happy to sell it to you (with no disclaimer listed on their website)!

I will NEVER do business with them again!

 

They dont offer a map for many mods. The preloaded maps they do offer are just starting points anyhow because each truck is a little different because of manufacturing tolerances.

 

Dude get a grip, hundreds of people use the URD MAF re calibrator and it works great. You can absolutely feel 16 hp and you will find better mpg at highway speeds too. I've had one for years and it was dyno'd and clearly provides gains. A CEL is not a " broken truck " the person that tuned the MAF clearly just made an error it has nothing to do with the URD product itself. It sounds like his tech is the prob, not the URD MAF product... Three hours to tune with plug n play software at $100 per hour - how about you redirect your aim at that obvious problem... I'm surprised the code reader didn't throw an I-D-10-T user error code.

OP - DO NOT waste your money on any Unichip products for a Taco.

 

It really sounds like you mis understood that the URD MAF re calibrator would be a plug in and go item for you ? Why would you be shocked that they did not have a pre set map for your intake ...Volant has a very small market share to begin with and any device such as an MAF re calibrator should always be fine tuned even if it came with a generic pre loaded map as no two vehicles are truly identical. It is a great reliable product but it takes some " know how " to set up properly...Just as any sort of mapping software does. It really sounds like your tech took you for a ride. Three hours of labor to set up that device is insane, It seems your experience would have been vastly different an far cheaper with an experienced tech...I called URD and inquired about R4 experienced folks in SoCal, made an appt and was in and out in an hour total.

 

The tuner is also an idiot. The stock V6 4.0 liter 1GR-FE is rated at 236 hp (176 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb·ft (361 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane.

I don't know where they came up with the 150 and 165 HP... Something wrong!

 

It was dynoed on a Dyno Dynamics which read extremely low; there's a reason they're called "heart breakers"!

 

What do you work for URD? You have your opinion and I have mine.

I will agree the Tuner is an Idiot. No evidence there were any gains looks like nothing but losses. Down from 236 HP down to 165 HP.

I will stand by my opinion that these little gains are worthless and cause more problems than they are worth. This post is a case in point. There are many other post about this ( not just Tacoma's ) all over the internet. The same holds true for CAI's. Garbage.

Some ( not me ) would argue with you about Unichips also...

 

Low would be a few horse power numbers. Yours was a loss of 86 HP somewhere. Makes no sense. Your Tuner is a moron.

 

Pretty sure the dyno is reading RWHP, Stock rating is at the crank.

 

Even still. My estimation shows that at 236 Crank HP should be putting out approximately 190 or so HP at the rear wheel. That is still 40 HP less.

 

Are you sure you connected it properly. Its been a long time since I installed mine but Im pretty sure only one wire is actually cut. The rest are just spliced to. Bad splicing could cause resistance that would throw the MAF values way off. The table of values for the tune should be relatively smooth with no drastic changes from cell to cell just a gradual tapering.

 

Those numbers sound correct for an Un corrected dyno dynamics. They're honestly the most accurat BWHP dynos.... i believe multiply be 1.22 to average a Dyno Jet

I hope your guy explained this...

 

No, I do not work for URD but I have worked in retail for 25 years so I'm pretty good at spotting someone mis directing their problems with service at a product or their problems with a product at service. The " worthless " thing here is people confusing their opinions with fact and in the process disparaging someone's quality product. The product does not cause problems as you have stated " cause more problems than they are worth " fact = incompetent installation and buyers that don't do their homework cause problems - not the device itself.

How can you stand by your opinion that 16 hp is worthless ? A CAI with a properly set up MAF re calibrator yielding 16 hp is quite clearly not worthless. That makes about as much sense as saying your tires are worthless because the kid at the tire store didn't put air in them...you guys gonna talk shit about BFG for that ? A CAI with a properly tuned MAF calibrator adding 16 hp and increasing mileage is clearly not worthless, fact.

I would like to hear your fact based UniChip argument as I am extremely familiar with their product for our trucks. Go ahead and justify that $ to benefit ratio for a Gen 2 Taco UniChip set up vs a CAI and MAF calibrator...and don't forget to factor in that the plug and play UniChip gains are minimal so you have to hit a dyno and pay UniChip certified tech to tune it for you to get anywhere hear the fantasy numbers people claim.

 

Probably a wiring problem. Installed mine, punched the throttle a few times, noticed a difference, NO CEL