URD MAF Calibrator Installed; Now Check Engine Light!!

I've had a Volant intake since they came out seven or eight years ago, and an URD Maf Cal for nine years. Back then there were no maps, I had to make my own with a datalogger, wideband o2 sensor, and the autobahn as my dyno. After I got it tuned, I haven't touched it in 80,000 miles or so. No MAF related Cels, not even once. I properly tinned and soldered all electrical connections though...

 

So I bought a code reader (Innova 3150) and I reset the CEL and MAF fault codes. However, shortly after driving about 20-30 miles, the codes continued to come up. Not sure why?!?

Anyways, I'll be taking the truck back to the tuner tomorrow so he can check the long term fuel trims and see where they're at.

 

Aside from the supercharge route, trying to get additional power out of these engines is either going to be a PITA or a waste of money...probably a little of both. The engine is what it is...thirsty, outdated, a little light on performance, and reliable as hell.

If you want something you can toy with, and actually see real results, I suggest a F150 with the 3.5L EcoBoost engine...Ford left a ton of performance on the table and a canned tune will easily net you 40HP and 80TQ. Toss in some additional bolt-on mods and it will be well over 500HP using the stock internals.

For my next truck I'll be going back to Ford, after their new model has a couple of years to work out any kinks. I love to tinker with my vehicles, but I recognize trying to do anything with my 2014 Tacoma's engine is a lost cause....just going to enjoy the truck as-is and leave it at that.

 

People are making about 50-60 hp with just bolt-ons on the Tacoma. The engine responds pretty well to mods. You're comparing a turbo'd engine to NA, so obviously you can turn up the boost on the turbo.

 

I know all about forced induction, and I'm not interested in going that route with my Tacoma. I'm trying to stay NA and pick up some slightly better performance etc.

Hopefully, we can get this figured out and get it dialed in. I don't mind an additional 16whp from investing about $200 for the URD MAF calibrator and $350 for the dyno-tuning.

 

1- Spending 3 hours on fine tuning a map is not many times. If youre a bit crazy you can spend way more than that by yourself trying to have 0 trim in every cell and the perfect AFR and transition from close to open loop.
2- Why not just learn to calibrate it yourself? You need an AFR gage and someting like OT-2 from innovate.
3- Everytime i'm pushing a new map in the the Cali with the R4 software, i'm getting the same code as you. I reset it or it dissapear after few cycles.

 

I was told an interesting piece of information by URD. The MAF controller does not affect the A/F ratio below 4,500 rpms, because below that engine speed, the fuel metering system is always in closed loop regardless of throttle position or engine load. So any gains your engine makes will be above 4,500. Below that performance will remain exactly the same as it is now.

I had mistakenly believed that the ECU went into open loop any time the accelerator was floored. Now looking at my charts, I can see that even under wide open throttle, the A/F is held to around 15 by the fuel trims until around 4,500 rpms, and then it reverts to the factory preprogrammed fuel map that richens up the mixture.

I really respect Gadget's honesty, as he gave up a sale for the sake of telling the truth. My engine almost never makes it over 4,500 (except on the dyno), so a MAF controller would not make any difference on my truck in normal driving.

Greg

 

Greg:

Thanks for sharing that info! It definitely puts things in perspective!

So, essentially what you're saying is that the MAF calibrator is ONLY effective at >4500rpms (or WOT)? I'm rarely (if ever) over 4500rpms, therefore, this product would be useless for me?

 

Question:

How do you permanently erase codes that are stored in the memory? We keep getting the same codes (P0101 and P0102); will these eventually clear themselves out after a few drive cycles, or is there another way to permanently erase these codes?

We've already tried disconnecting the battery to no avail.

 

There is an app called torque for android andit reads and clears codes, along with other things. It would be the cheapest way most like if ur reader u bought doesnt have that ability.

 

Let me clarify: I've already cleared them using a code reader.

These codes are identified as "permanent" codes and therefore need to be deleted/erased from the ECU memory.

This is what I'm asking about.

 

Only over 4,500 rpms. I was told that even if I'm wide open throttle under 4,500 rpms, the fuel metering system remains in closed loop. Here's some of my 2.7 dyno runs for an example.




Notice that under 4,500 rpms, the A/F ratio is held at around 15 by the closed loop system, even at wide open throttle...

...then by 4,500 rpms it's completely in open loop and the factory fuel map has richened up the mixture.

I was surprised to learn this. No wonder I was getting the same A/F ratios for every run regardless of the mods. I just didn't know why. The closed loop fuel trims were actively compensating for any changes regardless of wide open throttle or engine load below 4,500 rpms.

I don't doubt that the MAF controller can easily get more horsepower at the top. If the green A/F was richened up, the engine would definitely have more horsepower at 4,500 and above. But I'm not a high performance driver. It's just my everyday work truck.


Greg

 

Haven't tried that! Will do and see if that resolves the problem

 

I have a wideband gauge in my truck. That is not true with my 4.0. I can get into open loop at 2500 rpm if I pin it. Maybe the new ECU's are different or it's only for the 2.7?

 

There are 7 years between our trucks, and I believe that accounts for the difference. I'm only going on what I was told as well as my dyno results that show a clear transition from closed to open loop at 4,500 rpms under wide open throttle conditions.

Greg

 

OP, the fact is the MAF Cali is essentially an open loop tuner. In closed loop has little affect, although I have seen posts by Gadget that refer to the Cali fixing "induced MAF sensor error" in refrence to the old Volant that had a different sized intake tube.

Also keep in mind that tooter has good info, but he also has a 4-cyl. Very rarely is there a clean logic leap between the 4 and 6 cylinders.

I have the 4.0 and can feel the MAF Cali maps bump in on open loop transition. The "bump" is confirmed by my scanguage flipping from closed to open loop.

 

That information only applies to the 2.7L 2TR-FE engine. The other engine control systems are setup by Toyota very differently.

This does not mean you cannot do any tuning below that RPM point. A big part of tuning deals with tuning closed loop mode. You are not going to alter the fuel mixture in closed loop mode (we have other devices for that), but you can fix induced MAF sensor error caused by aftermarket air intakes. This deals with the amount of correction the OEM ECU has to apply to keep the 14.7:1 AFR on target (fuel trim deviations). This can fix a lot of drivability issues and get much better MPG.

G

 

URD has been shipping the MAF Calibrator for 10 years now. In all this time we have never had one fail in the field and been returned to us. They have proven to be 100% reliable.

There are somethings required that are beyond our control, the most important is proper installation and of course proper tuning.

We seen nothing but problems when people do not properly solder the wire connections and use those wire piercing crimping connectors. Those are will almost always cause an issue. Soldered does not always mean properly soldered.

URD does not have maps for every possible combination out there. That would be impossible. No we do not have a map for the new style Volant intake. Just as soon as someone brings me a truck that is pretty much stock with that intake on it, we cannot tune one. Need to tune one to have a map for it. It is just that simple. The trucks we have here are way to modified to do a N/A tune with an intake on it. If anyone is in the Southern Maryland area and has a pretty much stock 1GR and an intake we do not currently have a map for, call us and we will invite you in for a free tune.

The code is likely a one or a combination of three things.

If you were using a USB to serial converter, it is possible for that code to be set during the writing process to the calibrator. Some of these devices give off some interference that causes voltage to appear in the MAF signal wire when the engine is not running. When the ECU sees this it will set a fault code because there should not be any voltage in the signal wire when the engine is not running. Simply clear the code after writing and move forward.

The next thing is an improper installation where one of more wires does not have a proper connection. That will set a code every time.

Lastly, if the tune is really jacked up, that will do it as well.

Codes do not normally go away by themselves. They normally have to be reset or cleared. If you do not have a scan tool to do this with, then simply removing the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes will do it.

G

 

sounds like good support to me