2nd battery inside DC Tacoma

I have a jump pack already (it may be a different model JNC, I'd have to look) which we used last time we camped to jump off an RV that had a dead battery. It was able to start them up with about 1/4-1/3 charge on the jump pack (it had been at least 2 years since I'd charged it).

Bill (BamaToy) has a dual battery system w/upgraded alternator that I was looking at.

No amplifier. My primary draw concern is the ARB 50 qt fridge. I have a winch on our Xterra and have never used it. I don't expect to ever use the one on the Tacoma either, as we will use it for overlanding vs. offroading in the Xterra. Its a "just in case" need.

We are going to Overland Expo East in October, and will be there for 3 days with the ARB running on battery only. I don't want to kill the 31M I use as my primary, even if I can jump if off with the jump pack.

I think that is sort of what I had in mind. As noted above, our primary concern is the fridge. We'll have a 3-day test in October at OE, but next spring we're spending 2 weeks driving from GA to the Grand Canyon. Not sure how long we'll stay in one spot, but once we get there its unlikely we'll be doing a lot of driving - so not many chances for the alternator to recharge the battery, and not the place I want to get stranded with 2 little kids.

What size are those, and what did you have to relocate?

 

wonder if we could get a photo of your engine compartment was looking into the same thing thx

 

Getting back to the OP - Yes, I installed a battery behind my rear passenger seat in a 2008 DCLB.
It is a Northstar AGM battery. It is a vertical style battery, with the terminals on the top - rather than a shorte,r fatter automotive or standard marine battery - look them up on-line. There are other companies making them as well. They are very good at deep discharge and fast recharge. New Lithium batteries would be even better, but more expensive. The battery fits perfectly in the space behind the seat back, and is strapped in place so it doesn't move around.
I have it connected to a BlueSea ACR intelligent battery combiner - so it is connected to the alternator/engine battery when the engine is running, but otherwise disconnected. Thus, it can't discharge the engine battery. I have a fuse block in the engine compartment to protect the circuit from there to behind the seat.
I have a fuse block behind the seat on a lead to a 1000w inverter, which lives behind the driver side back seat. There are connections going to extra 12v outlets as well.
This battery and inverter powers the 50w VHF radio, GPS, all AC chargers for phones and Sat phone, halogen work light, small AC compressor, has powered a hitch-mount winch for very occasional use.
I've had this setup in the truck since 2008 with no problems and good service.
The only thing I'd change next time might be a bigger battery and larger inverter for an electric refer/freezer, rather than the ice box we use now.
Go to the BlueSea web site - it is a wealth of useful info, and their products are top quality.

 

The reason that I chose to run dual batteries is that I wanted a battery dedicated to the winch and off-road lights, so that in a worst-case situation where the engine was not running, I could use the second battery to winch out. Then, even if the second battery was drained down getting the truck out, the primary would still be isolated, and capable of starting the truck after it was pulled out. The second reason is if for some reason I make a mistake and leave my headlights on or something and kill the primary battery, one flip of a switch and I can jump start myself off the second battery.

Sorry Doug, for some reason I was thinking you had mentioned an amp. My bad.

 

Funny thing...

I've been toying around with the idea of totally relocating the stock battery (with the ability to add a second, later-on) to the bed or somewhere other than the engine bay.

 

Model 35 and a model 70. The 70,on the left, is slightly shorter but allowed me to use the stock positive(red) leads without relocating or cutting the stock harness.
Positives
1. I run my ARB refrigerator of off my number 2 and can keep Popsicles frozen in 80-90 degree weather withothout running the truck for about 1 1/2 days before my monitoring system tells me it is getting low.
2. I have run the refrigerator for 2 weeks camping before with minimum but occasional running around.
3. I wired 2 always on 12 v outlets in the bed which are very useful.
4. Light bar also runs off of no. 2. Winch is wired to no. 1. Accessory fuse box handles all of my no. 2 hookups.

Negatives
1. I have the batteries tied down with a strap on the ATO battery tray because I haven't taken the time to figure out a top mounting plate that works with the different height batteries. No problems yet though.
2. I trimmed a nub off of the fuse box to squeeze it all in but the fuse box is still easily accessible. No real issues there.
3. I can't adjust the headlight on this side without pulling a battery. It is too tight to fit a tool or a hand between the batteries and the back of the light. This is my biggest negative but now that my headlights are adjusted everything is good.

 

That sounds exactly like what I was thinking of doing. Could you possibly take any pictures? What is the model of the Northstar?

No worries, I figured you had mixed me up with someone else.

Actually, I have. Bill has a solar (100W or 200W, IIRC) option in his Stage 5 kit. I wasn't sure if a roof mount would make sense, or a directional ground mount.

I suppose a generator is an option, but for our trip out west we'll be living out of the truck for two weeks, so with two kids space is at a premium.

 

Gravedgr - I just looked at the Northstar website, the battery I have isn't listed there. Mine is 9"h x 4"w x 12" long. The closest is the SMS AGM 220, which is what I'd get if I were doing it today. The key thing is that the battery needs to be <4 1/2" wide.
It is longer, so you'd have to trim the shelf back +/-3" - no big deal for the extra capacity over mine. The battery would nestle in their snugly, with just a regular webbing battery strap to keep it from jiggling at all.
That would still leave plenty of room for the combiner and fuse block.
I have enough room back there for a rolled up tow strap and tow hitch.
Again, go to the Blue Sea site - that will tell you way more than me - and be more accurate!!
Good luck.

 

If a wet battery is properly vented, it can be used in the cab, but IMHO, VRLA (AGM or Gel Cell) batteries in the cab or bed would be a better alternative than in the engine compartment due to the high underhood temperatures, especially in a hot climate.

 

Thanks. Just looked at the SMS-AGM-220. I will go do some measuring, but part of me wonders if I'm really considering spending $2k+ to avoid stopping to buy ice for a normal cooler every 2-3 days (about how long my cooler will retain ice in hot weather).

 

The extra capacity could be used for a cooler, but would be very useful for all the stuff I run off the 2nd battery.
A larger inverter is good for a more capable compressor and/or more work lights.
The larger battery would not be many more $$$.
The larger inverter would not be many more $$$.
I'd probably up the wire size, but that is hardly any more $$$.
For me, not an issue.
The major cost is that these are really good batteries, compared to automotive or marine AGMs.
As an OBTW, I'm assuming you have the tow package with the higher output alternator. If not, upgrading the alternator is $$$.
Good luck,
Mike

 

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...-Sportsmen-Family-build?p=1311190#post1311190

 

I do, but was thinking of upgrading to the 250a that BamaToy offers.

Nice find, that's an impressive setup. I may have to shoot him an IM with some questions.

 

Professionally I recommend against installing any direct-wet battery in the interior of the truck. When off-roading and other extremes it is easy to shock loose a venting system, thus allowing dangerous gasses to enter the cabin area, or acid to spill out if at an extreme angle. While it would be ok in a truck that is always on the road, it is not a safe option for one that is taken off-road a lot.


As for the system on the expeditionportal.com site, VERY impressive install. He did a quality job there. The batteries look like a perfect fit for you Doug. With that option I can still design you the electrical cabling for that system. If you go with just a single battery there, and keep your existing battery in the stock location we can still make the cabling and control system for that.

 

Okay, I'm going to take some measurements this weekend and shop around for batteries. When could you give me an estimate for with & without solar?

 

I had a 2nd battery (Optima) setup in my FJ and it along with a 60w portable solar panel from Adventure Trailers kept my Engle 45 running for a least a week in the desert without a problem. I am now waiting on my 2015 Tacoma to be delivered. ;-)

 

I know it's an old thread but still a good read

 

Lead acid batteries experience excessive grid corrosion when exposed to high under hood temperatures, so locating them anywhere else is a better solution, if properly installed using proper wire size, in plastic conduit, and fused. Wet batteries installed in a passenger compartment require venting, whereas, VRLA (AGM or Gel) do not. For more information on this and the causes of battery explosions, please see the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org. If you are concerned about an internal battery short, using a spiral wound deep cycle battery is the preferred solution. Improper wiring and fusing is the first thing an insurance adjuster looks for when there is an electrical fire in a vehicle, especially with aftermarket electrical appliances.