TRD Brakes

aint going to do a lick of good. Rear drums on this truck are WAY overkill as is.

 

Slots in the discs aren't there for cooling... And neither are the drilled rotors. Neither really make sense in my mind on a truck. You don't want to have a ton of fast bite on your system if you are ever on slick or loose roads... You aren't using pads that need to off-gas. You can likely fix your problem with getting different pads... What is the actual problem though.. What does burning up mean?

 

burning up.. smells like brakes burning?

 

Do they make blanks that fit?

 

A smell isn't a problem, just means they are heating up a bunch. If you start losing brake and the pedal feels the same, then you need more cooling or a bigger kit. If you start to lose brake pressure in the pedal, then you need to keep your fluid fresher, maybe upgrade the fluid, and get more cooling or go bigger. Cooling your brakes by driving style... I.e., pulsing the brakes on/off down hills will work well. Have you ever seen lemans cars at night? Their brakes get so hot they glow, and then cool off SO fast after they are released... Granted its a different animal with cooling ducts, but still it shows that brakes cool off quickly.

 

EBC people!!!! I love my EBC stage 5 super street kit (dimpled/slotted rotors and yellow stuff pads). They take the heat and the abuse. Haven't felt fade yet. And the dust isn't horrible if you wash your vehicle regularly. I haven't questioned weather i could get stopped since i broke in these brakes. I worry more about the ever changing environment around me

Also note, i glazed my OEM pads from too much heat. Haven't worried about that with this EBC kit

 

the free pads with the drilled/slotted rotors wear out quick. Ive heard better experiences with the upgraded pads.

 

Drilled rotors are prone to cracking anyway. Unless you have something like a ceramic rotor

 

I just hate working on drum brakes. From what I hear the conversions out there can be a PITA to install though. My mosy likely approach to brakes in the future will be OEM parts with the exception of EBC pads since I don't plan on towing heavy loads or taking the truck to a road course.

 

^messing with the rear can cause some problems... if you over bias to the rear you can get the rear coming around on you if you brake in less than a straight line and the rears lock before the fronts. with a truck with a light back end, i imagine this can be done pretty easily. if you just disc the rears and then keep the bias low, not sure what is accomplished...

 

TRD Big Brake kit was used on the Long Beach Racer's SCORE class winning 2nd Gen taco. They were 'running the fake TRD beadlocks. The only real issue is that that master cylinder is not optimum for them. Green Stuff pads and the EBC or Stock rotors have been the best combo that I have found. There are some pads out there that flat out suck.

 

How much bigger is the TRD big brake kit?

 

I just got new brakes, and flushed the lines and everything at a brake shop, and the truck would start to roll down hill with the same force on the brake, I had to push super hard to keep it from going down more.

 

If you go offroad much, I would not suggest slotted, drilled, dimpled, etc. Stick with flat rotors. The holes or grooves can get debris packed in.

I say try this:
1. stock or EBC stock replacement rotors (flat).
2. EBC green pads. They'll last longer than yellow but still grab nicely. Hawk makes nice pads too.
3. Braided stainless steel lines front and back. They'll withstand the temperature and pressures better than the stock rubber lines.
4. Bleed the fluid and replace with a DOT 3 or 4 fluid. I think most DOT 4 are compatible with 3 but just in case, check for a bottle that specifically says it's compatible with DOT3. DOT4 has a higher boiling point so might help out some for you.


Also, remember there is a break in period for new pads. Follow the instructions for "bedding in" the new pads.

 

Could mean they let air into the lines, or the brake pads needed bedding, or the old discs are glazed and need to be worked. New pads or rotors too?

 

To simply answer your question. Yes, drilled and slotted are worth it. On my second gen, I towed a lot and went down a lot of steep hill consistently. I live in WV. I was eating through stock replacement rotors like crazy. They would start warping around 15k. Terrible wobbles. I upgraded to drilled and slotted rotors. put about 40k on them before trading the truck and no wobbles. Driving in the same exact conditions too. For those of you saying to use engine breaking. That's great and all, but try coming down the hills here in WV with 2 4 seat side by sides on a car haul trailer using engine breaking and see if you make the hair pin curve at the bottom lol.

 

This helps as I was looking into replacing mine... so what brand or company would you go with? Everyone I've seen said the TRD is over priced and not worth it?

 

So the stoptech rotors dont fit 16" wheels?

Darn glad I read this before buying.
hmmmm.

WTH? 6 year old thread?

 

Agree with you, same thing happen to me on my 06 GX470.

as this thread is 6 years old