AR-15 BS Thread

Got a problem with my black rain ordnance .308 AR, hoping you guys can help

this doesn't happen every time I fire, but happens around 50% of the time.

When I fire the bolt will recoil back but the empty case will not come out of the chamber. It will then feed the next round into the back of the empty case in the chamber. Can't figure out what's going on. It is .308 and It has done this with 175 gr gold metal match and 168 gr nosler match ammo.

I didn't think to take pictures today, I'll snap pictures next time I shoot it


On the bright side it's accurate and my .458 socom functioned without a hitch.

 

Recent AR Build:

Lower:

Spike's Tactical stripped lower receiver
DPMS lower parts kit
Magpul BAD lever
Ambi selector switch
BCM Mil-spec buffer with upgraded buffer
Magpul 6-position stock

Upper

BCM semi-complete upper
LaRue Tac full length quad rail
Spike's Tactical bolt carrier group
BCM charging handle with large latch
Cheap (and temporary) truglo 1x red-dot

 

I bought a YHM low profile GB from ironworks so that will go on the 6.8 and I'll get a standard FSB for my 223.
I had a UTG quad rail on the 223 that happens to measure to what the YHM rail is supposed to be (+/- 1/2'') and this is how it looks.

Does the extractor look normal?

 

Seems like it did last time I used it, I'll pull the bolt and check

 

I've been looking for a compensator for my newest AR build.. anyone have any suggestions? What have you guys used, good or bad?

 

A hundred options. Depends on what you're looking for - sound direction? Flash suppression? Muzzle stability? Suppressor compatibility? Do you want to spend $50 or $150?

I think the Lantac Dragon is an interesting concept, but I run AAC 51-tooth brakes on everything since I run an AAC can.

 

here is a picture of my extractor, it's a nickel boron bcg

Oh, and it turns out the frog lube I was using seemed to gel up, and made the entire BCG slightly gummy, in wondering if it was slowing it down enough to not grab the round maybe?

 

Price isn't an issue. Mostly looking for muzzle stability though and don't have any plans on getting a can anytime soon so that's not really an issue either

 

You're using to much frog lube which is a common mistake.

Take your extractor off the bolt. Make sure the edges that go over the case are clean, no brass shaved off on them. Also check the spring to ensure it's moving freely. Ensure there is enough spring tension. It's possible the extractor is not going over the case head on the chambered round and if it is there isn't enough tension to actually grab the case. A fairly common issue with an easy fix once the proper issue is determined. Where are you located?

Also have you called Black rain about this as they will help you out.

 

Then the Lantac Dragon might be a great choice. $120 or so but it seems to work really well at canceling muzzle rise.

 

Thanks. I'll have to check that out. I got a new trigger on the way so all I really want to change is the muzzle device and I should be ready to rock

 

Christiansburg va

I have not, I used the black rain upper and lower in a large frame AR class build class (do did the lathe work), that I took.

I don't like the frog lube for my 1911 so I'm thinking about switching everything over to either break free clp or slip2000 ewl, probably slip2000. I took a 1911 build course this summer with Jim garthewaite and that's what he used for his 1911 and I liked it while using it

 

i'm a fan of the rainier brakes/comps

 

My experience with frog lube causing issues is because it's been improperly applied. Since their instructions on use was poor forever it's not the consumers fault. However with that said I have some Lucas gun oil (crazy right?) that works great on my 1911s. Check it out.

 

I am a big fan of Mobil 1.

 

Same for ARs. Not so much for pistols though.

 

I use mobile 1 for all my rifles. Whenever I change the oil on my vehicle I cap the night off with a cleaning session for all my rifles.

 

I used to use Hoppes Semi-auto cleaner but the little 4 oz. bottles at $8-9 each got old quick. I go through a lot of cleaning stuff and that price just wasn't gonna get it. I liked the stuff because it cleaned the carbon and oil and grease very well and left NO residue. I found a much cheaper way to get liquid cleaner than those $8-9 bottles. At Wally World buy a spray can of Powder Blast for $6-8 each. Take that 4 oz. empty bottle and the spray can to the garage. Make sure the little red tube is seated well then proceed to fill that 4 oz. bottle up. Now you got liquid cleaner as in the Hoppes Semi-Auto cleaner liquid. They have lowered the amount on the cans over the years, I used to be able to fill the 4 oz. bottle 4 times with one can but now it is down to like 3-3 1/2 times per spray can. Much, much cheaper this way!

For lube I use CLP. I buy the stuff by the pint I use so much. I have the small lube bottles with the twist open cap I pour that into and I mix a dab of Militech 1 lube in as well because it is made to do that, mix with other lubes. Do not count on Militec 1 as a rust preventative, it sucks in that fashion. It is an excellent lube though and mixes well with CLP.

One day I was installing a security camera at a city admin building where the Police where located. A salesman looking dude came up to the clerks window and asked for the Police Chief, said I am with Armor Holding Company. I was on my ladder behind him and I just spurted out a comment, "You sell Break Free". He swung around like crazy and asked, "who said that?". I owned up to it but told him I am just a gun nut that buys your product by the pint bottle I use so much of it. He shook my hand and told me thank you for using our product and BTW, there are a lot more gun nuts like yourself than there are policemen so please keep buying it. I assured him I will.

 

Why not? I use mobil one on my ar pistols, my cz's, my beretta, my tanfoglio, never had a problem.

 

If I use Mobil 1, do I need LS additive?