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The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by Blackdawg, May 28, 2011.

  1. Sep 13, 2014 at 10:53 PM
    #8481
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea what I'd have done.

    Could still do it mike. Then for the bottom use 3 or 4" wide flat bar and attach the tank to it so that the bolts go where the ridges are up. Then attach the 3-4" flat bar to the bed in the places where the ridges are down
     
  2. Sep 13, 2014 at 10:54 PM
    #8482
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Or what Timmy just posted
     
  3. Sep 13, 2014 at 11:18 PM
    #8483
    Digiratus

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    Haha, guys frorget who it si you are talking to. All that that bajataco did may seem simple to you guys but to me...:eek:

    " I started to create a frame for the air tank to mount to, first by fitting and trimming some angle-iron to one of the cross members under the bed. Then it was drilled for bolts. "

    [​IMG]

    He makes it sound so simple... :pout:
     
  4. Sep 13, 2014 at 11:23 PM
    #8484
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    If the built in mounts wont line up, seems like this will not be optimal.

    Also, it looks like bajataco is mounting directly above the diff and driveline because he has already used the space where the spare was. I don't think there is room under full compression of the rear axle.
     
  5. Sep 13, 2014 at 11:42 PM
    #8485
    Digiratus

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    Need a place to stay when your here? I have a spare room.
     
  6. Sep 13, 2014 at 11:50 PM
    #8486
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    I'll draw up a nice way to do it where all you'll have to do is drill holes. And make one or two cuts of flat bar.
     
  7. Sep 13, 2014 at 11:53 PM
    #8487
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    How long are you going to be around? Maybe hook up for a beer?

    Awesome. Need dimensions of the tank?
     
  8. Sep 14, 2014 at 6:38 AM
    #8488
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Sure. Make it more...official haha
     
  9. Sep 14, 2014 at 9:54 AM
    #8489
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    Looks like ~28" x 6.5"

    IMG_8724_zps5751f343_d771d9136afb364686037aa1d4e29b2f869ad48f.jpg

    IMG_8727_zps3996b299_544493ef013e602cfc6f1aa3faa40c31a793ab36.jpg
     
  10. Sep 14, 2014 at 10:00 AM
    #8490
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    It would be fun for sure. Let me know.

    What part of Seattle does your sister live?
     
  11. Sep 18, 2014 at 12:20 AM
    #8491
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    I still have the PN somewhere. I'll get you it. I know the one he got was a tad different..but it was still the same alternator. I wouldn't be suprised if his pulley was a bit different cause we ended up using a different belt then mine.

    Diode isn't really a true isolator. It only allows flow or electrons one way. Using that to connect my battery's would just make them parallel. That and I'd need one hell of a big ass diode. If your thinking of connecting it in a way that the two positives can't be connected then What's the point? Solenoid is better cause to can connect them at any time for more capacity like when winching. Charging is simpler. And you can self jump yourself.

    I picked the solenoid I did for winching. Winches can pull up to 430+amps peak. Mine is good for 500amps steady draw and 700amps peak. So I know it can take it.

    Not sure what the blue sea one is rated.
     
  12. Sep 18, 2014 at 7:16 AM
    #8492
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Well a solenoid is a switch basically. So it's still truly isolated. But like you said. If you can't link the batteries...why bother? Really at that point if you are going for just a second batter to run a few small things. Don't have to connect it to anything. Problem there becomes how to charge it.

    Is it 500 amp constant or peak? I'm sure it is more then capable. Mine cost 40 bucks I think.
     
  13. Sep 18, 2014 at 11:24 AM
    #8493
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea..or 50. wasn't 200 thats for sure haha i spent maybe 200 total on stuff for my isolation setup..if that.

    The one on Expo is just a starter relay. Which works..but way under rated if you are going to upgrade the alternator.
     
  14. Sep 18, 2014 at 11:31 AM
    #8494
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
  15. Sep 18, 2014 at 11:32 AM
    #8495
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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  16. Sep 18, 2014 at 11:49 AM
    #8496
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    :thumbsup:

    im thinking of trying to come up with a schematic for an auto trigger for mine too. i don't mind the manual switch..actually its nice, but you just have to pay attention and flip it every so often between the two batteries so they both stay charged.

    Should be simple to come up with a simple circuit to monitor voltage and all. But might not have the time for it...
     
  17. Sep 18, 2014 at 12:22 PM
    #8497
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    It senses on batteries voltage and opens and closes accordingly? Nice

    Yea man will do. Buy it up :cool:
     
  18. Sep 18, 2014 at 12:43 PM
    #8498
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Oooo fancy.


    Also


    Not worth it haha
     
  19. Sep 18, 2014 at 1:13 PM
    #8499
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    What?




    L....lights?




    Actual lights?







    :goingcrazy: such technology!!

    MUST HAVE!!
     
  20. Sep 18, 2014 at 1:35 PM
    #8500
    SnowroxKT

    SnowroxKT Well-Known Member

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    You guys are hilarious just to read these BS (I mean build lol) threads..

    So random question to get even farther from the build thread :anonymous:

    Would the CS144 work on the 3RZ-FE? I really don't have the money to buy a built new one for the truck, but 100 for an alternator with mild adjustments to fit are do-able.
     

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