Tacoma Rust Prevention Experiment

I've been using two in front to change oil for a few years now - never had a problem. Not going to look at them now but believe they have a egg crate design on the underside for support. The ones I just bought are rated at 16000 lbs - not sure of the ones I have but I do remember I bought them at Walmart - they had two models and I went with the higher rated of the two.
They save me time - that's why I use them. I'm going to google the problems - maybe I'll thro a couple of jack stands under the truck for safety. Thanks for the reply.

 

Great thread and hands on research by many posters, kudos to all.

Anyone try CorrosionX Heavy Duty yet?

http://corrosionx.com/corrosionx-heavy-duty.html

 

Found this thread on The Hull Truth Boating and Fishing Forum

http://www.thehulltruth.com/sportfishing-charters-forum/123560-test-corrosion-inhibitor-sprays.html

may be useful

 

Just found this on a thread on Hotrodders Bulletin Board Tech Discussions

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/best-rust-inhibitor-40799-3.html


"The best way to rust proof an automobile is to dip the entire stripped shell into dilute hydrochloric acid, rinse, hot dip in a moltern zink bath, then apply 20 coats of epoxy enamel and dip the finished artical into warm moltern tar, allow to soak for 2 hours, with draw, allow to cool, dip - soak - withdraw etc., untill you build up a coat of bitumen at least 2" - 50mm thick, store in a cold dry nitrogen atmosphere and your car will be rust resistant for at least 60,000 years."

 

Jim "doording" mentions: "For cleaning prior to treatment, I use the ramps and creeper with a heated pressure washer. That's a lot more of a mess on me, so I wear a face shield over safety glasses. I'd love a lift, but the ramps and creeper make working under the truck much more comfortable cleaning prior to treatment, I use the ramps and creeper with a heated pressure washer. That's a lot more of a mess on me, so I wear a face shield over safety glasses. I'd love a lift, but the ramps and creeper make working under the truck much more comfortable.[/QUOTE]

I used a product called "Blaster Corrosion Stop" last fall and it seemed to work very well. Only problem with it is it remained somewhat tacky/sticky AND attracted a lot of dirt and grime. I'd like to try to clean it off and try the CorrosionX product or possibly Fluid Film. You mention a "heated pressure washer". I've owned several pressure washers (gas and electric) and none of them heated the water. Are you using a consumer grade pressure washer that heats the water?? I will need something like this to clean my original product off. All of the car washes near me spray up a low pressure undercarriage wash upon entering the bay. Nothing too powerful. Thanks.

edit: I just saw some heated pressure washers. Man, they aren't cheap and renting one from my local tool rental costs about $150/day!

 

I just finished spraying the frame and body panels with Fluid Film. I think next year I will try the Amsoil product mentioned by the OP. Looks promising.

 

yet another forum and threads discussing rust prevention:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forums/32/1/Penetrating_Oils/Cleaners/Solv

 

Umm....

 

Like many of you I purchased my Taco with the intent of keeping it for a very long time, hence I was a concerned to find a few small rust spots on the frame of my '13 AC (only 4600 miles). Several threads on TW indicated many Dana-made frames before 2009 were rusting prematurely and that Toyota had fixed the problem, so I thought my '13 might be somewhat more immune to rust. But I'm not taking any chances. Perusal of TW and other forum threads reveals a wide discrepancy of opinion on the efficacy and materials used for rust prevention. Since I cannot discern any consensus regarding rustproofing and I currently dwell in a state that doesn't salt the roads, I've decided to take a moderate approach and just regularly inspect and spot treat any rust for the foreseeable future. If I relocate to an area that salts the roads, I may reassess my strategy and get full undercarriage rustproofing, but for now it's creep and seek.


I've decided to try CRC Heavy-Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, it passed a rigorous salt water test and was rated as one of the best rust preventors according to an experiment posted on:
http://www.thehulltruth.com/sportfishing-charters-forum/123560-test-corrosion-inhibitor-sprays.html


I cleaned the few small rusty areas on my frame with a wire brush and steel wool, then sprayed them with CRC. I then used the remaining CRC for a durability experiment; I sprayed CRC on unrusted sections of the frame adjacent to and just behind the front wheels. In theory the CRC might wear off more quickly in these areas due to more water and debris kickback; but time will tell, I'm curious how long this stuff will remain effective. I will continue to regularly monitor and spot treat rust for now, always looking for an excuse to ride the creeper!


small rust patch on frame near front wheels




small rust patch on frame near front wheels



CRC



CRC leaves a light olive-green residue, will monitor durability

 

I've got plugs for the wheel well, sans the tiny holes. I'm thinking of filling those in with some clear JB Weld epoxy. From all I've read here, this whole problem stems from road spray gettin through the wheel wells and rusting from the inside out.

 

Indeed. I'm only plugging holes on the side of the frame. Bottom holes are fer drain'n.

 

it is a combination of factors. The holes allow salt, water, etc to accumulate. The drains are very easily pluggged. The cats are right there adding heat.

I would test some of this stuff out with some heat and see if it withstands it or melts away like a normal wax would. If it does I would look for another product for the boxed section of the frame.

 

so do you spray your muffler also?

 

I use Boeshield T9 for all of that!

 

Ordered 5 cans of the Amsoil MPHD, going to be doing this to my truck this week. Is it advised to take the wheels off and get the truck up on stands to get every bit of the frame?

 

PROTECT your LUNGS.....it is wicked stuff....other than that it works GREAT..

 

Québec is the real world capital of salty roads lol.

Using that treatment every year. Here is impossible to avoid completly rust on frame but want to minimize it.

Holes are drill in panel, door, tail gate, everywhere water can accumulate so water is replace by the stuff.


http://www.antirouille.com/en/rustproofing/original-treatment

 

I will probably just leave the wheels on, see what I can get to.

Will do! Gives me an excuse to break out my ebola hazmat suit.

 

From where? I did a cursory look online last week and it's not so readily available.

 

Ordered it direct from Amsoil.com, just have to create a username and password. You can also check the Amsoil website which will help you locate local dealers in your area that may stock it.