Light Racing UCA questions.

I currently have the Light Racing UCAs installed if I were to go back to stock springs could I still use the Light Racing UCAs or do the have to go as well?

 

Stock springs / stock height ?

If that's the case you could just clock 2* caster back out of the LR UCA's no ?

 

Back to stock for now but not sure if I have to take them off also. Its set at 0* right now.

 

0 on the LR UCA adds 2 degrees of caster over stock , so what I'm saying is to dial -2 on them which will get you back to where the stock ones would have you

 

I have a couple LR uca questions. I have had mine on for a few months now and everything has been great. Recently i noticed that my pass side front wheel is kind of sticking out a little bit up top \ |
My question is can i just loosen up the big nut on top and push it in a tiny bit (so it more straight up) and not have it effect the alignment too much? Any tricks to doing this (jack up the front first)or just like it sounds? Thanks!!

 

Caster is traded off with camber when using the stock LCA alignment cams but that's not necessarily the case with the LR UCA's because you can adjust camber independently at the top nut / slide adjustment above the ball joint

 

You can adjust the camber after you get your caster set by sliding the top nut in the slot at the top of the arm

 

What setting are you using, "E"? From what I've read thats one of the most common settings (thats what mine is set at too).

 

Do you not understand that you can adjust the camber after you have your caster set without changing the ball joint " clocking " ?

 

My ball joint nut came loose this weekend and slammed my tire into the UCA on the trail. and YES I torqued it back down before the trip.

 

150 ftlbs ?

 

Yes, It was also a 230 lb man with a 5' ft breaker bar. They will be off this weekend and selling for $150

 

I usually use a torque wrench

 

Did you have a failure ?

 

I think a lot of the issues and failures are predominantly with the earlier version of the arms , especially torquing the bolt prior to having the truck on ground , pinching the arm and not allowing freedom of movent which resulted in weld failures

Having said that , a grease nipple for the ball joints would make maintenance a lot easier and probably cut down on premature failure of those too

 

LR UCA's wouldn't be the first vehicle component to get upgraded over time

My LR UCA's are 4 years old , zero issues

 

I just had to replace the ball joint on my LR UCA after 12K and 18 months. The fact that all I had to do to get a warranty replacement was email the lot number means its a common issue.

 

Those are all Scott

 

I will be putting my desert racing uniballs on this weekend.

 

Yes you can push it in. Thats why it has that channel so you can adjust it. I would raise the vehicle (tire off ground) before loosening the bolt. At full droop the spindle gets closer to the spring and you dont want it hitting the spring. I just adjusted mine as close as I could get to it without touching(while tire off ground). Seemed to help my positive camber situation a bit.