Hey TW! Let's see your knives!

Can't justify the price when I have one I like already

 

GREATAXE!! i have one as well. for a while they were getting tough to find. i got mine from a woodworking shop going out of business, and got mine on a rare sale. i was stoked!!
i wiped the handle down with a mineral oil, beeswax paste i made. darkened it a bit, but it feels really weatherproof. animal blood washes off of it easy

 

i am absolutely blown away on how good a cheap ass Mora is.

i was gonna go an buy a new benchmade knife out of their HUNT line, but just cant do it....this was today. got home from work, sharpened the Mora and it is seriously as sharp as a straight razor. it is my sharpest knife by far..that scandi grind is pretty easy to sharpen..i could do it with my eyes closed..

i might get a new tactical Mora for a whopping $40..hahah..it has a thicker blade.

i'm even coming to grips with the sheath!! i cleaned deer blood off the sheath with no issues. leather would have sucked.

 

Northwoods Freemont Jack, fresh out of the mailbox.

 

The Bushcraft Black? Never seen a "tactical" Mora.

They're great, scandis are super easy to sharpen to a hair popper.

 

Small little review on the CKRT knife the Drifter. It's been really good it's still super sharp and I've carried it every day since it arrived roughly 2 months ago I think.

The only small issue I have noticed is that there is a nut that holds the blade centred and it seems to like to come loose. If you tighten it too much you can't open the blade up so there is a sweet spot you have to tighten it too and it's kind of a wonky bit that you have to use. When it comes loose it causes the top of the blade to scrape against the handle and it's worn off the coating on the blade. Really not a big deal and I would buy it again in a heart beat for $20.

 

That's the pivot pin. Throw some Loctite on it (not permanent bond) and set it where the blade is happy - easy to open, easy to close, no rubbing on the liners, and forget about it.

Overtightening it will add a lot of friction to the blade where it rotates on the pin, between the liners. Hard to open, hard to close, coating wears off prematurely. Too loose, and the blade will have play in it both locked and unlocked, since it's not being held tightly between the liners and the washers that allow it to be held tight yet still rotate without much drag and friction.

 

Where can I find a good axe? I need one to carry in my truck for camping. Id prefer something without a wood handle but if it's a decent axe I can get over it. I really like the crkt ones but that's a lot to drop on an axe I know nothing about

 

Wood is superior. But if that's serious, a Fiskars. NOT a Gerber. And not the shit yellow handled plastic piece of crap from Home Depot.

When you say don't know anything about, are you talking about the CRKT axe, or axes in general?

 

Both lol. I'm a huge crkt knife fan but idk if someone else makes there axes for them or if they make there own. There nice looking but it's more of a tomahawk than a true axe

http://www.bladehq.com/item--CRKT-Johnson-Kangee-T-Hawk-Orange--21434

 

Would never suggest that as a tool. An Axe is meant to chop wood that entire CRKT tomahawk weighs less than an appropriate axe head weighs, without a handle.

Also, an axe is serious. You can easily remove a foot with a single glancing blow. I would really recommend familiarizing yourself with proper and safe axe use before you buy one.

If you're looking for a hatchet, and can't handle a wooden handle, I'd still recommend Fiskars. That CRKT is a "tactical" tomahawk and likely will be useless for legit hatchet usage. For $140 you can buy a hand forged axe from the finest Swedish manufacturer. A real axe that you can shave with.

 

A boys axe makes a good first axe for general use. But really, safety is paramount and axes are serious tools. Can't say that enough. There is no such thing as a minor injury when swinging an axe.

 

What's wrong with a gerber hatchet?

 

Yeah I know there serious. Anything that sharp with that much weight behind it can be lethal. I need something for getting fire wood because the last trip I did everyone forgot firewood and all we had was one guys small hatchet and small machete and it made for a shitty firewood bundle and I really appreciate high quality knives and I assume axes are like knives in the way that you get what you pay for but idk where to start

 

If I were going to be cutting serious wood I would think about a small chainsaw maybe.

Cutting lots of wood is hard work

 

Gerber's QC is all over the place. Their hatchets/axes and Fiskars are nearly identical, but Fiskars have much less problems and so far as I've seen, better customer support to fix problems. Gerber's heads can be very poor quality, not sure if it's heat treating, grinding, or what, but they do something wrong

 

Look up Wranglerstar on YouTube. He has a few videos on axes around $50. Start there.

Highly suggest a wood handle. Fiskars is a good axe if you want a different handle material. Amazon sells them.

 

Aka finest hand forged axe from the finest Swedish maker.

But not what I'd suggest as a first Axe unless you're the type who wants the best you can get, even if you don't know how to use it yet.

 

He doesn't want a wood handle.

 

And he might remove half his leg with a GB.