Long Travel BS Thread

I have been usin the jmr notcher for years and it works great!

 

Same one I have..I like it

 

harbor freight one works, if you get it aligned and buy a JD or protools bearing and shaft setup.

 

I'll be selling my protools notcher soon. Stout, and sturdy. Sealed bearings, no play.

 

I want it. Pm me. In the market for a notcher

 

It's the HD one. I need it for a few more jobs, then it's good to go. Stepping up to an abrasive notcher. No more hole saws.

 

Cool stuff happening in the rear suspension. Custom pack from Deaver, stock hangers with fabbed shackles, 2.0x2" hydros, and revalving/rebuilding my 16" 3 tubes.

Not the DMZ kit, but it's better than the All Pro expos I had with Wheeler's Super Bumps.

Going to try and pull 15" from this setup, and if not possibly move the hangers.

Oh and axle is swung forward in this photo because other side was still limited by the All Pro pack. Axle was angled diagnonally with the pass side forward.

 

So doing something similar to the defined kit then?

 

Yes and no. Similar, but not the same. From what Deaver tells me, this pack should cycle 15-16" on stock hangers. I'm not claiming anything until we cycle it with a tape measure.

 

So I finally installed the stock gas tank and the has guage reads empty....I did have to splice all the wires for the connector but everything was color coded...I was reading that there is suppose to be a ground wire on top of the tank???


Any ideas

 

Done for the most part for now. Still needs new u bolts and Mr. Beefy plates, shock valving and rebuild, and I'd like to fabricate a new hanger. The fabricated shackles are making contact with the stock hanger and is now limiting my droop. Tape measure shows 14" from pad to collapsed bump at full droop right now, only 13" of shaft showing. No leaf separation whatsoever. Need those hangers done then I think it might pull 16".

Initial thoughts, way too much compression. It's a slow hit that feels really stiff. Other than that, ride height didn't change, no weird noises, no bind, and a dip I normally bottom out and buck on no longer does so. I used to be at 4" of up travel, 8" overall. Now at 14" with 8" up and about 6" down. Still don't know if I'm going to pull a leaf or not, I'd like to run it with two spares mounted aft and see how it drives.

 

Ive been checking these out and they look like a quality setup. Looks like their benders are pretty decent too?

Ill have to check out the protool and poly performance mentioned below as well cause they seem like a solid way to go!

 

anyone know if tundra calipers and pads would fit on stock taco rotors?

my spindle won't let me run any thicker of a rotor and tundra rotors are the same in every way but thickness. here is a link to the specs. Is there any obvious reasons it would not work? like the caliper won't close enough or something?

reason:

 

For those of you who havent seen the glamis thread here it is http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/off-roading-trails/338234-3rd-annual-t-w-glamis-trip.html

OCT 24th-26th past few years we have had a great turn out

 

Anyone have top plates for saw coilovers laying around for sale? trying to sell my 2.5x8 coilovers and im trying to help out the guy who wants to buy them

 

Who's spindles?

 

so i got my motor mounts out and i know why the drivers side ears ripped out. the motor mount broke. doing a temp fix till funds allow for the dmz. using 3/16 plate and cut out a templet from the TG solid mounts i have laying around. gunna throw those in as well and weld the plate to the perch

 

Cause you drive slow on bumps?

 

Should be 0-110 ohm sender. 0 ohm is full, 110 ohm is empty. Check your connections again.