El Cheapo Heated Mirrors

looks like the exact same mod my buddy steven did on his XR...nice job...

 

Shawn,
I tapped into the rheostat wires from the switch next to it. This way they dim at the same rate as the rest of the dash.
If you do not like that and want it illuminated at all times, you can use the Accessory positive (Switched power) and a ground.

 

Very nice...tagging this thread for when I get irritated at the frost/dew this winter...

 

Thanks for the reply, I figured that you did that as I have 3 blanks that have the green/white green available for dimming.

I have the Highlander switch on order, and the mirrors installed and wired, the only thing I am having trouble finding is the .11" (2.8mm) spade connectors.

Do you remember were you got them? I checked out Granger, Radio Shack, Autozone and Advanced Auto with no luck.
I was hoping to get this finished this weekend, as my door panels are still off, any help would be appreciated.

Shawn.

 

I found some connectors at Car Quest.

I also used Burco Mirrors for a 2006 Sienna. (Part #: 4007H and 5103H) They come as an complete mirror with the heating element already stuck to them. They also include adhesive pads to restick the mirror.

I didn't heat up the plastic backing as the OPer did, I was able to insert a scraper inbetween the mirror and the backing and just peel it off. As he showed in one of his pictures, there is really not much surface area that holds the mirror on.

The Sienna mirrors are exactly the same as the Tacoma ones, and fit perfectly. The hole even lines up for the connectors.

I will hopefully get the Highlander switch installed on the weekend.

 

Glad you found them. I got mine from a local auto sound installer. Their most common use in the auto industry is for tweeter speakers.

I may look into those Sienna mirrors.
Thanks for the heads up.

 

Funny, a Stereo shop was my next stop. The person at Advanced recommened a local installer which makes sense as speaker tabs are usually fairly small.

I'd be interested to see if I can find a proper connector for the switch, but the local dealer was no help, although I'm sure these connectors will work fine.

Thanks for your help, hopefully I get everything hooked up this weekend.

Shawn

 

It's a tight fit, but they'll all fit.

You can get the connector. If you're really interested, I do have the part number written down in my "Mods to Truck" folder at home. It's like $5 for the plastic connector. It's the individual metal connectors thats the deal breaker; their $4 each. I just wanted to save $30, since I was lucky enough to pick up the connectors as a "Freebie".

Seriously, if you need the part numbers, just let me know. I'll get them when I get home.

 

I found 4007H here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290339893397 but not 5103H. Is one the right side and the other the left side? I have 08 Tacoma. These Sienna mirrors will fit right ?

 

Yes the 4007 is the drivers, the other is the left.

Check out http://www.burcoinc.com/products/online_catalog/ and put in 2006 Seinna as a vehicle.

How much was the mirror on ebay? I found them to be about $40 from the local windsheild repair shop.

Shawn

 

Well, I got all the wiring hooked up yesterday, but didn't get a chance to put the actual mirrors back on before I had to run out. (I took my wifes car).

Everything work perfect when I checked it with my volt meter. However today when I actually hooked up the one mirror and tried it, the switch blew.

I think there is too much current for the switch to handle it without a relay.
Having said that, any information or advice you have about hooking in a relay would be much appreciated.
Another thing I noticed, but it's not a big deal is that the symbol on my switch is green (works with the dimmer) where as I could have sworn from your photo it is amber.

Anyways, I will have to order a new switch (expensive mistake as they are almost $150 CND (I may wait until the next time I'm in the US) but as I mentioned any help with the relay would be apprecaited.

Shawn

 

Shawn,

Sorry to hear about the switch. The Burco mirrors must pull more amps than the smaller handlebar warmers. I have since updated the original post with corrected information and included a schematic on how to wire the switch properly including a relay in the system.




Edit: To be ethically correct, I swapped post 30 and 87b. It makes no difference, this is just an unwritten electrical rule that the load goes from terminal 30 to terminal 87b.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that design still pull all the power through the main switch thus possibly causing the same issue ShawnD experienced? Wouldn't it be better to have 87B connected via an inline fuse directly to the battery (or whatever accessory power you run the switch off of) so it bypasses the switch and doesn't overheat it? I know I've run fog lights without a relay and the switch got hot enough for me to worry before I rewired it.

 

No load goes through the switch... I know where you're going and it catches me in a double take sometimes. This is correct though. The timer switch completes terminal 3 to 4 on the switch (Ground completing Switch). This completes the electromagnetic switch in the relay allowing the amp load to be sent from Accessory+ to 30 to 87b and then to the mirrors.
As far as a fuse, I'm assuming that the installer is pulling the ACC+ out of the fuse box and are using a protected circuit.

 

I just ordered another switch (I'm down in South Carolina this week) and the switch is $58.25 US vs. $148.03 in Canada.
I already have a couple of relays from other projects, so I should be good to try it again when the new switch comes.

Thanks for your help.

 

I got everything hooked up on the weekend. The Burco mirrors draw 3.8 amp combined, which is not very much, however still obviously enough to burn out the switch (and I only had one mirror hooked up at the time when it burnt out). It makes sense that the Toyota switch with the timer is not designed to handle high current as I'm sure the Highlander would have a relay.

The switch is green instead of the amber colour that the rest of the dash uses. I was able to order a replacement bulb 90011-01058 (for $5.00) from my local dealer and swap the bulb out.
Everything works great, thanks again for your help.

Shawn

 

Shawn,

Thats awesome.

I've been following this thread daily in anticipation of this post! (A good outcome)

Soon you will be wondering how you got by without them!
It's even more awesome when you know that you don't have to worry about leaving them on and having them be automatic.

How about some pics!!!

 

Thanks again for your help, once it gets darker (to see the lighted switch)I'll take some pics.

I bought the mirrors last summer and finally got around to doing them now.

I agree, I like the idea of having the timer and having it tied into the ignition (I used an add-a circuit with a 5amp fuse by the way, I was a little skeptical, but it fits nice and tight and seems to work fine).

We had frost here on the weekend, but I was camping.
Now I'm hoping for a cold morning to try them out!

Shawn

 

Just a couple of quick questions.
You mentioned that the combined current draw from the mirrors is 3.8 amps. With that being said where did you tap in to for the accessory wire, wondering if I should tap into a 10 amp fused circuit or higher. I guess I could always ad a 5 amp inline fuse going to the relay, not sure if it's necessary.

 

I used an "add a circuit" and used the accessory fuse location from the pannel inside the cab, this way I didn't have to run additional wires through the fire wall.
The accesory fuse location uses a 7.5 amp fuse, and I added a 5 amp fuse for the mirrors.
I've never used an add a circuit before, however it seemed to fit quite well and was nice and tight in the fuse socket. Several other locations uesed fuses upto 20 amps using the same gauge wire feeding them, so I think it should be fine adding the 4amp load to it.

Shawn