Deeezy's Locked Sport Grocery Getter Build

I bought this 2013 4x4 sport last year and one mod led to another and another and another.............

How it looks today on 37's:







How it looked on 35's:











On 33's:













Truck Info: 2013 Sport, 4x4
Pyrite Mica

Location: Oahu, Hawaii

Suspension: ADS 2.5 Coilovers, extended travel, w/resis/clickers, 650lb springs
ADS 2.5 rear shocks, w/resis/clickers, 26.5" ext, 16.25" coll.
Icon tubular UCA's
Dirt king V1 LCA's with Kartek limit straps
Icon 2.0 VS Alum extended rear shocks w/resi's. 26.8" ext, 15.9" coll. (sold)
Allpro Expo leaf pack
Allpro U-bolt flip
Front super bumps w/one-off aluminum spacer made by Bullaculla
Rear super bumps
Sway bar removed
Defined Engineering shackle hangar brace

Drivetrain/Engine:
Core/Hurst short shift kit w/relocation bracket
Yellow wire mod
Redline MT-90 transmission fluid
Extended front/rear braided brake lines
Volant intake
HP Tuners software w/custom NA tune
3 degree retarded exhaust cam gears
Rear diff breather relocated behind tail-light.
ECGS Rear 3rd member w/4.88 gears and ARB air locker. Front clamshell w/4.88 gears and ARB air locker
Intake manifold spacer, 1/2"
URD competition Y-pipe.
TRD cat back exhaust, chopped after rear axle w/tip reinstalled
Engine oil temperature gauge, Glowshift
Oil pressure gauge, Glowshift
Steering rack oil cooler, Mishimoto

Wheels/Tires: 37x12.5x16 Irok ND's on Ultra 103 Beadlocks
315/75/16 Super Swamper Irok ND
FN Wheels, 16x8 -20 offset Countersteer Type X, Graphite Gunmetal
315/75/16 Procomp MT2's (2nd set)
.75" BORA hubcentric wheel spacers (for 2nd set)
TRD bronze beadlock wheels (2nd set)
Fenders trimmed/cut 2"
TPMS disabled for Irok set

Exterior: Softtopper
Leer 100xq
Homertaco ghost raptor grill

Armor: Exocage
Pelfreybilt steel front bumper w/ fog and led cut-out.
Pelfreybilt IFS aluminum skid
Homemade steel mid skid
Pelfreybilt standard rear bumper with hidden hitch, led cut-outs,
and swing-out.
BAMF rock sliders at 10*

Lighting: Rigid Dually fogs
Rigid SRQ flush mount reverse lights
Rigid 20" light bar for front bumper **sold**
Baja Designs S8 20" driving/combo light bar w/amber drl
Tacodane's led strips under doors wired together with ORO rock
lights.
ORO rock lights
HID retrofitted D2S headlights. 35W

Recovery: 10 lb co2 tank
48" Hilift jack mounted on bed rail
9500 lb Smittybilt XRC winch w/synthetic rope.

Misc: Battery relocated to the bed

Day I brought it home:


Threw on some 5100's, TRD bronze wheels with 265/75/16 KM2's, and some N-fab steps.


Installed Core/Hurst shift kit which was a gift from my wife:




Took the 5100's off and installed some Icon stuff:


Installed my Leer 100XQ:


Sold my 265/75 KM2's for some 285's:


Got a matching wheel for full size spare:


Crown Extended brake lines:


Wheeler Super Bumps:


LED fog assemblies from Retrofit Source:


Installed some BAMF sliders:



BHLM:


Black tail lights from Amazon to match BHLM:


LED courtesy lights:


Ghost Raptor grill from Homertaco:


Next update will be some Pelfrey gear!

Got my front bumper on:


Also got the rear w/swingout on:








Wired the Rigid SRQ reverse lights. Used the 3-position switch that came with the lights. The switch can be always on/ off/ on with back-up reverse/camera. The switch illuminates if the lights are on.





I'm going to replace the switches with ones from OTRATTW soon.

SRQ lights are brighter than I thought they were going to be:





Relocated the reverse camera to the swing-out.



Got my bumper light bar covers and rocker switch. Just need the light bar.



Bumper led bar switch got installed next to the stock fog light switch. Tapped into the AC control dimming circuit so the lights on the switch can be dimmed with the rest of the dash lights.



SR20 mounted and wired today:



OTRATTW custom 3-position reverse switch installed. The Rigid srq wiring was used, just have to add a couple illumination wires so the bottom leds come on with AC control lights.



Got my fog light and bumper led bar switches (matching brands) installed:





Did the reverse camera on anytime mod. Used the dpdt switch that came with the rigid reverse lights.



Installed a custom OTRATTW switch for the "camera anytime". Up is on, middle is off, and down goes on when in reverse


Picked up a 10 lb Co2 tank. It fills tires fast!


Installed extended Icon 2.0 VS rear shocks w/ resis. 26.8" ext, 15.9" coll. Way more travel now but the leaf pack is limiting it. These shocks are actually for the Allpro leaf pack I have on order. Should be perfect for it.









I cut down a polyurethane bump stop to the height needed to keep the shocks from bottoming out until the Allpro leaf pack gets here.


Flexed it out and there's a lot more down travel than before:

 

Sick build! I can't wait for our Pelfreybilt gear to get here!!

 

That's cheating!



I've often wished for a mag drill when putting holes in the frame. Good looking truck!

 

2/22/15: Trimmed mud flaps today. The bottoms of them were getting shredded so this should do the trick.







I think it looks better anyway.

2/28/15: Got my co2 bottle mounted with large Quick Fists








3/8/15: Installed shackles on front and rear bumper. I had to take the powder coat off the shackle pins for the front bumper. The pin was too thick with the powder coat on the pin and the bumper so it couldn't slide in the 7/8"hole.



3/25/15: Installed Allpro standard leaf springs. Install went smooth and the ride is very comfortable too. I got a little over 2" of lift, just what I was expecting.







6/19/15: Volant intake installed. Smog pump wouldn't bolt up nicely because of the holes were prepped on the intake so I had to improvise with some stainless bolts and stuff.







6/20/15: Shifter relocation bracket installed. This moved the shifter about an inch to the rear and toward the driver. Seems like a more comfortable shift for me now.







Droop with the extended Icon 2.0 RR and Allpro Standard leaf springs:







Rear Icons at bump:





7/14/15: Got my shipment from ECGS. 3rd member geared 4.56 w/ARB air locker and front clamshell w/ECGS bushing.



The rear swap wasn't that bad:










The front clamshell was very time consuming and I think requires two people. There's a lot of nuts and bolts and crap that has to come off before you can drop the clamshell:



There's a gear and shaft that has to get swapped over to the new assembly. This is the diff before the gear was swapped over:


Mounted the compressor:



Ran the air lines along the brake likes all the way to the rear end:





Installed the compressor and locker activation switch under the AC controls. I'll be getting OTRATTW switches to match the rest soon:



8/1/15: Trimmed fenders is preparation for the 35's







Test fit the front



Front



Front and rear





Installed a threaded plug for the fender intake tube since the fender liners were removed. I can easily plug the tube if there's a chance of water or a lot of dust. The intake has another port in the front of it, in the engine bay.






8/8/15: Made some aluminum brackets to secure the front of the front-fender flares. I didn't like the idea of having just the plastic clips holding them on.







All the hardware was painted black:





Each flare is secured with bolts in the front and rear of each fender now.


9/24/15: Installed Rokblokz Universal XL mud flaps. Just the rears needed for inspection here. I used some scrap aluminum L-angle to make some brackets to bolt them to. It seems to be the only way since I cut my fenders.








I also cut cut my exhaust tip off. It's a TRD "turn down" now.

 

9/30/15: Got my 35's in! Going to get them mounted and balanced with Dyna Beads:








10/1/15: Mounted and on the truck













The truck also passed recon and safety inspection like this. The tire rubs the UCA slightly so I installed .75" BORA hub centric wheel spacers.



Here's some shots with the .75" spacers:














10/11/15: Installed U-bolt flip. Thanks to Kumz for the plates and Boss 4x4 for the bolts.





10/15/15: Took the truck to flex it out and check tire clearance. One side rubs the cab mount by a hair and both sides has some minor rubbing on the firewall. I'll start clearancing the firewalls this weekend. Very happy with how it turned out. I will be testing/wheeling the truck at Peacock Flats in a few weeks so that gives me some time to fix the firewall rub.

Cab mounts at lock and stuffed as much as I could on this ramp:












11/27/15: Made some Hilift bedrail mounts. I used 3/8-16 stainless steel hardware and bullaculla aluminum bedrail inserts. I bent it out of 1/8" steel I had laying around.














11/29/15: Got a good deal on a Pelfreybilt mid skid. Primed, painted, and installed:





12/5/15: Came up with some fender liners from vinyl flooring. This idea came from NYCO's build. I used a full rubber/vinyl type commercial garage sheet flooring. It's sprayed over with rubber undercoating to waterproof it.











1/17/16: Scored some rear Super Bumps from @rka . They were almost perfect height for the ext travel shocks I have. Driver side needed a small spacer just to be safe and passenger side was spot on with about 5/8" of shaft left before bottoming out.





ORO Lightspot rock lights wired with tacodane led strips I already had under each door. I have them on a 3 pos switch, on/off/on with dome light.













1/24/16: ATO HD stock length shackles. What I thought was going to be a 20 minute job turned out to be a 2 hour job. Swapping shackles using the stock hangars required unmounting the leaf springs to get the top shackle bolt out. Oh well, it's done. All leaf bushings are poly now and the shackle has a greasable fitting on it. It's definitely beef compared to the stock shackles.







New HD shackle at ride height:



2/27/16: Finished up my retrofit. D2S projectors w/Apollo shrouds and backlit amber halos.
























Some wheeling vids:











5/30/16: Memorial Weekend Wheeling





Some wheeling pics taken by @rka

























7/30/16: Defined Engineering's shackle hangar support brace installed:









8/13/16 Front diff swap w/ARB air locker. Fresh out of the box:


I had to clock the air compressor to fit under the brake line hoses:




Front locker switch wired up:


Removed cv's:


Unbolted front driveshaft:


This is the wire harness connector on the passenger side of the diff that needs to be unhooked and it's bracket unbolted. There is also a bracket on the driver's side that needs to be unbolted and have the vacuum lines unhooked. These are both on the top side so it helps to unbolt the front of the diff supports so you can swing the diff down to make a little room.


Old diff w/ tube unbolted to be swapped over to the new diff:


This stub shaft has to be removed from the old diff to be swapped over also:


And finally, I plumbed the new air line and tested for leaks:


9/2/16: Total Chaos bed stiffener/tie down brackets:

It bolts in using one factory bed bolt on the bottom and a 10 mm bolt up top. Three 5/16" holes need to be drilled on the vertical sheetmetal side of the bedside and bolted down with bolts supplied with the kit.






I figured this might help with the bed twisting when wheeling with the Leer cap on.

9/22/16 Got my Countersteer Type X's and Super Swamper Irok ND's mounted. I used 12 oz of Dynabeads per tire. The 16x8 wheels are about a 3.75 bs.






I opted to disable the TPMS system and use "shorty" rubber valve stems.


The hill climb, locked front and rear:



The build continues on post #7 below

 

Yeah, drilling the frame by hand is not a fun task. This is my poor man's version of the mag drill.

 

The build continues................

Battery relocated to the bed for weight distribution reasons and not wanting to damage the sheetmetal fenders and core support with the heavy battery bouncing around on it. I had all the wire and battery tray put together in a custom kit by Offgrid Engineering.
1/0 wire was used from the bed to the stock battery location where it splices together with the factory negative and positive wires that used to go to the battery. I ordered Blue Sea bus bars to terminate all of the big wire. A 250A fuse was used to protect the long run of power wire from the bed. This 250A fuse is fine for even running my winch because of how that type can handle more than the rated amps for a preiod of time.











After relocating the battery, I could take all of the extra preload off of the driver's side coilover that was needed for "tacolean". The truck is totally level with the same preload on both sides.


3/30/17

Installed ADS coilovers and rear 2.5" shocks:





I had to grind and clearance the lower rear shock mounts on the axle for the larger shocks to clear at full bump:








Since I had my steering fade on the last wheeling trip, I installed a steering rack fluid cooler I got from bullaculla:



Picked some flexible air duct and fittings to route to my intake box so it wasn't sucking hot air from under the hood. I routed it behind the passenger headlight so it gets blocked from rain and what not:





The Donaldson filter I'm using did a good job of keeping crap out. The engine side of the filter was spottless:


8/5/17 Swapped in some 650lb springs instead of the 700's with help from bullaculla. My truck is right in between needing 650 and 700lb springs so I chose the lighter rate. The 650's required 1/4" more preload than the 700's to maintain the same ride height.





9/9/17 Installed URD Y-pipe and intake manifold spacer:




10/1/17 Got new Osram HID bulbs and OEM Toyota ballasts to replace my old setup. The new Nightbreaker bulbs are less blue than the old CBI bulbs and should provide more visibility in rain/hazy conditions. And the OEM ballasts are waterproofed from the dealer and should last a long time.







Afterstaring at and comparing the amount of shock shaft on the rear of my truck, I noticed that the Allpro leaf springs locate the axle more rearward than stock. This wouldn't be a issue if I had relocated shock mounts, but I am using the stock mounts that have the pass angled to the front and the driver to the rear. I picked up these axlerelocation plates andmoved the axle forward 3/4".



It was a bigger project than expected because I had to relocate the u-bolt flip plate forward also, which needed another 5/8" hole drilled/relocated. I also needed to cut off the excess threads on the center bolt that holds the leafs together so the Wheeler's bump stops could go back on.




It worked out and now the axle is located equally between the top shock mounts and wheel wells, and the shocks now have close to the same shock shaftshowing. It also keeps both the rear shocks closer to the same angle instead of before which had the pass side angled more than the driver's.

Before:




After:



The plates also added 3/8" of shock shaft because it added that thickness to the leaf pack. So, I will be cutting down the rear bumpstops to not waste any shock travel.

 

3/5/18: I've been cutting and "tubbing" the inner fenders in preparation for the 37's.










37's!:




4/1/18: New Northstar NSB-AGM31 installed






Alternator voltage booster from Singer Alternators installed:






5/28/18: Clutch master cylinder crapped out. Kind of shitty to change out since it is under the clutch pedal in the cab and hard lines travel through the firewall.






Also changed the slave cylinder:




6/23/18: Installed Dirt King LCA's and Dirt Designs LCA mount gussets.








Installed shorter 7" limit straps since the new arms tabs are located in a different position:





8/27/18: Lowered the ride height front and rear. Welded up some Dirt King spindle gussets, installed them, and went to get an alignment. I was able to get better alignment #'s this time, which I think is because of the new lower ride height, LCA's, and spindles.

 

Nice build

 

Thanks....The next time I update this build will be for my bumpers.

 

Need the MAG drill!!...lol Get it so I can use it this weekend!...

 

You don't rub your UCA's at all? Maybe the after market UCA's make the difference...?

 

Dana...should have posted a pic showing the wood block leverage drill press...lol That one is the Caveman version...

 

No rubbing on UCA's, fenders, or cab mount, at all.

 

Hey man, you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

Good looking truck thus far. Jelly.

 

Thanks man.

 

Dude sweet build love the color match rim combo and tires looks so mean! Nice cap as well how have you liked it? One of my new favorites on TW!

 

My family really likes the cap. It keeps everything in the bed nice and dry. The only drawback is if you have to haul an oversized load that won't fit under it. That's not a problem for me because I have a smaller Tacoma work/company truck that I can use for that.

 

Do you recommend a new leaf pack or an aal if adding the cap?