Sloshing in dash and coolant not returning to radiator from overflow

I have a 2005 Tacoma and am having a couple of issues. Hopefully it's nothing major (e.g. head gasket).

First is a sloshing noise in the dash like there is air in the coolant system. The heater core isn't leaking and my truck is not over heating. No leaks in the system that I can see.

Second is radiator fluid is not being sucked back into the radiator after cooling off. I replaced the hose yesterday that goes from the radiator and overflow but haven't driven it enough to know if it fixed it yet. I also replaced the cap a couple weeks ago with an after market one and that didn't fix it so am getting a Toyota cap tomorrow.

Are these two issues related? Any ideas on what is going on?

 

I had a similar problem in my old Impala. Turned out there wasn't enough coolant in the system. Sounded like the sloshing noise was just behind the dash, I thought water had gotten into my vents somehow.

 

1. You have air in the heater core, causing the sloshing sound. Burp the system...park nose up on a hill, open radiator cap with engine cold, allow it to warm up to operating temp with cap off, then recap. Never hurts to squeeze the heater hoses during the process to help the air come on out. May take a couple of trys to get it all out. The issues are probably related. When there is a good amount of air in the system coolant will not move to the expansion tank b/c the pressure never gets high enough in the cooling system to open the spring on the radiator cap.

2. Highly recommend you getting a Toyota radiator cap. Nothing beats OEM.

 

I am going through this same issue as well right now on my 05. Exact symptoms you describe. I have changed the parts you have as well as the water pump as it was seeping, and no changes. I am also starting to notice more moisture in the exhaust than normal when sitting and idling. Otherwise runs fine.

I have run a leakdown test, block check, pressure test on cooling system and a vacuum test of the cooling system. The only one that shows an issue is the vacuum test as it won't hold vacuum at all, and I can hear the block gurgling.
Also when I start it cold, I get bubbles coming into the coolant resovoir. I'm about to pull the heads and do the gaskets as I'm pretty sure that is the source of the problem.

I'll report back after I change the gaskets. It will be a week or two before I have it done.

 

The ultimate cooling system burping gadget:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQk9HpuIrmA

This is but one of many videos on youtube for this product.

 

Sounds like a head gasket

 

Agreed

 

At least on kitemans truck. The op probably just needs to bleed his system

 

X3....

Crack the cap and lef run, see if you witness exhaust coming out of the cap.

I had a 3.0 ranger with the same symptoms, specially the noise in the dash. If you know anything about the 3.0 slow they are known for head gaskets, have done a few.

My next step if I was you is to compression test, im sure you will find a low cylinder.

 

Thanks guys. After testing and checking everything, I've come to the conclusion it has to be a head gasket problem.

I should say it has been gurgling in the dash for about 4 months now, and I've burped it, tried to vacuum fill it, and it keeps recurring. It's now to the point I can see bubbles in the rad, and the heater core gurgles all the time, so the heads are coming off the start of next week.

I'll definately update the end of next week on how the fix goes. There doesn't seem to be too much info out there yet on doing the head gaskets, so I'll see what I can contribute.

 

yeah, I'm starting to think it's the head gasket on mine too. I've burped it over and over, new cap, new overflow hose and still the same symptoms. Not sure how the air would have got in there to begin with.

I have a 155K on mine. How many have had head gasket problems? Are they that common?

 

I believe napa sells test strips to test for exhaust gases in the coolant. May want to try that before you start yanking off cylinder heads.

 

Compression is forcing air into the cooling system.

 

Just a complete guess. But, I would expect an experienced mechanic could do it in four or five hours. So around $600 to $700 would be my guess. Could be way off though.

 

From what I've read on here, a dealer wants close to 3 grand! That's a big ass problem if all the local shops in your area are hacks.

 

Wow. GREAT.

 

Just a quick update on my truck. Pulled the heads off and like all the others, #6 was leaking. You could see it on the gasket, and the piston had light deposits on it. I'll put a post up with full details, and pics when I have more time. It's going back together tomorrow and I'll report on whether the problem is solved. I'm pretty sure it will be.

It's not a particulary hard job, just lots of nuts and bolts and keep everything organized. Luckily Toyota's are well thought out with regards to servicing them, so everything is easy to take apart.

My truck has 160000kms on it for reference.

 

Subbing to this thread. I punched a hole in my radiator about 20k miles ago, and with no other choice had to run my truck until it would overheat and then stop and cool back down. I had the radiator repaired and coolant filled and everything seemed good, only problem was I couldn't keep coolant in my reservoir. Finally gave up on trying and figured it was a bad hose and it was just evaporating out of the hose. I have recently been hearing the sloshing noise in the dash, but very rarely. Any thoughts? Would a full radiator have enough coolant in it to last 20k miles if I was losing some due to a bad head gasket?

 

Do it yourself then. A good tech is worth paying what most consider outrageous.

 

I don't know if you're addressing my post or not.

I don't have a problem paying someone a fair rate for something I personally can't do. What I have a problem with is paying a large premium OTD for a product that is perceived as "quality" and then getting shafted on major repairs for things that quite honestly, shouldn't be failing on a vehicle with low mileage (by today's standards) that hasn't been abused. If they redesigned the gasket, then there was something wrong with the original design. The customer is now stuck paying for it, cause it mostly happens after the warranty expires. IMO, if the original design is determined to be defective, then Toyota (or any other manufacturer) should at least pick up some of the cost.

Glad the OP is able to fix it on his own