SNOW BOUND: Possible 1st time snow driving. Visiting Beech Mountain in early November

After reading this I read the snow report again & yes, it was Sandy. Imagine my amazememt! Hurricanes never bring snow to Miami.
Thanks!

Thanks for the info. I'll definitely drive with caution.

 

I have driven to Sugar mountain and Ski Beech many times to go snowboarding and have never had anything special on any of the vehicles at all driving all through Cherokee and near Caves cove etc.

Now when I took a trip to Snowshoe WV during a snowstorm and driving up the mountain that was a different story, they hadn't salted or cleared the roads and we were sliding all over the place but made it up to the resort fine.

you will be fine

 

HAHAHA!
Nice!

BTW, I'm adding Clingmans Dome as my finall mountain stop before returning home.

 

Clingmans Dome is neat, been there many many times. That is honestly the only place they will make you turn around if it is too icy up there.

 

Snow shoe is a different world!

 

My wife used to work at a summer camp near Banner Elk, I believe it was/is called Holston. Beautiful area.

As for snow driving, i'm from Oklahoma where tornadoes and earthquakes are no big deal but my God...if so much as half an inch of snow accumulates we just shut down the whole state. Just slow it down and be alert.

 

I've been to Pigeon Forge & Gatlinburg twice (once in March & once in October) & usually go to Laurel Falls also. I only went to Clingmans Dome once because they were closed in March. From what locals have told me, Clingmans Dome gets more snow & Ice than Mt. Mitchell due to it's location in the Smokys. It's beautiful there.

What's snow shoe?

HAHAHA! I guess it's because of the steep roads. I remember one of the times my family & I stayed at Sherwood Forest in Pigeon Forge. I was driving a Dodge Caravan rental. I remember thinking that I was not going to make it up those roads. Not because of lack of traction, there was no snow or rain. I just thought that the van didn't have enough power to climb.
I remember thinking that I would love to open up a transmission shop there.

 

BTW,
I appreciate everyones recommendations & advice so far but I still plan to buy tire chains. Better safe than sorry. If I don't need them, fine. If I do & I don't have them, I'm stuck. I've read all the comments regarding that it's overkill & I'm sure it comes from experience. I'm in no position to challenge your snow driving experience. Heck, I may not even see snow, but I have to admit that I will feel better knowing that I have them. I can always return them afterwards if I don't use them.
That being said, here is what I know so far from what I've found on-line:

Clearance: Not a problem for me. Even if I ran them in the front tires it wouldn't be an issue because of the MaxTrac spindles & the FJ Wheels offset.

1) "ladder" type chains are good.
2) "diamond" type chains are better (more traction surface AND easier to install).
3) "diamond, v-bar" types are the best.
4) On any type of chain, after installing, drive about 15' so that the chain can settle & then re-tighten to take out any slack from the initial installation.

Folks, I am dizzy from looking at chains, HAHAHA! At this point they all look the same to me. Can anyone recommend a pair based on their experience? I have 285/70r17's. If anyone is running the same size then maybe you can provide a part # also?

Thank you.

 

Snowshoe is a huge (well by east coast standards) ski resort in West Virginia. One of my favorite places.

 

I grew up in the only town close Elkins,WV we got 12 foot of snow annually on the mountain, Snow shoe, it was at least double probably triple that amount. I haven't been there in years, as a poor kid from the mountains I didn't get to go ski it.

 

My advice on chains? Practice putting them on and taking them off, with or without a jack, with gloves on, in the snow if possible.

Putting on chains in a warm garage with a floor jack is a far different scenario than on the side of road, in the snow, laying on your belly, trying to hook up the inside connection.

As for the type of chain, ladder, V-bar, x, just make sure you have FENDER clearance for the chains...at speed they tend to lift off the tire, and remember, they are terrible on a dry road. We used studded snow tires instead.

Howard

 

This guy has given great advice on chains. Practice putting them on a few times without a jack and get familiar with the process. Have a small shovel to clear snow off the ground around your tires when installing, and have a large coat/blanket to lay on while installing. If a coat is used make it a longer coat. Check the tightness after driving a short ways, and don't drive more than 25mph with them on. Chances are you wouldn't, but some get to good sections of road and go for it. Not safe.

Chains won't be a problem on the rear of the truck, but they might be in the front even though you are lifted. The clearance between the UCA an tire might not be enough for chains. These trucks do pretty well with them just on back.

Cable chains may be better for you. Some people say they are easier to install than old style chains, but they may not be as durable. That shouldn't matter where you may only use them once.

I have never used cable chains. I have used these.

Glacier Chains H2821SC Light Truck V-Bar Twist Link Tire Chain

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005PW6LX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They have worked very well for me. Last winter we had really bad ice under all the snow. It was hard to go anywhere off road and hills were very treacherous. Those chains made all the difference. Amazing traction.

 

All of the utility trucks and service trucks in the Boone, NC area will run your typical old style chains when the weather gets bad enough. However, I witnessed a Tacoma going up Howard's Knob in Boone with cable chains on and it was moving. Most vehicles struggle up that road even with 4wd, just because of the incline and curves. Plus its not plowed since there is only a hand full of houses up top.

I believe the cable chains are a little safer in terms of tearing up your vehicle but they don't offer the same traction. Now "Thule" makes some cable chains but they are incredibly expensive. I have seen these run out West more so than around the NC area.

EDIT: Just saw the THULE chains do not interfere with the inside of the wheel or tire at all. It only locks onto the outside. They are a pretty penny though.

 

Oh. I Googled it after reading this. Looks like fun. Thanks.

DAMN! Lot's of snow.

My plan exactly! Thank you.

No argument on the "some people will part" HAHAHA. Only time my truck even sees 2500RPM or more is when I'm off-roading down here, doing donuts, & a few mild jumps that are fun. This is in a big open section of land.

BTW, I was looking at those same exact chains. They seem fairly simple to put on. Did you have to buy the rubber tension things separate or do they come with the chains?

I read somewhere that "ladder type" provide less consistent traction than the "diamond type" because the tire will have sections that do not have any chain at all. The tire will essentially skip every time the chain section makes contatc with the pavement. However, it has worked great for you & for many others according to some reviews. I'm really leaning towards these.
Thanks.

YEAH! Thule is expensive. I don't want to spend $20 but I'll go for the $100-$140 range.
Thanks

 

I used them last winter on some logging roads that were glare ice for about 20 miles. The only slipping I had was before I put them on. Once you get them on you will see that there isn't much time, if any, where the chains aren't touching the ground. Especially if you count the opposite side wheel.

The first time putting them on can be a slight pain in the ass. Drape them over the wheel with just the ends touching the ground in front of the tires and get them centered width wise on the tire. Make sure they aren't inside out as they can really chew up a tire that way. I like to lay out on the tailgate, or ground if its clear, before I put them on and get everything straightened out. Once they are positioned on the tire pull forward a bit and go hook them up. If you get the type with the cam adjusters there is no need for the rubber tighteners. Just hook the chains with the cams open, and close as many cams as you can when the chains are hooked. Drive forward a 100yds and check the tightness. The first time I put my chains on in snow it took about 20 minutes for both sides. Once I got it down it took 8 to 12 minutes depending on how cold out it was and if my fingers needed warming. Keeping the chains in a small soft sided tool bag in the cab will help your hands out greatly in the cold weather. I also wash them after every use and hang dry them. It keeps them from becoming a nasty rusty mess.

Just make sure when securing the ends of the chains together you hook them up evenly. One end will have six or so links hanging on each side that the other end hooks to. If get three of those six links on the inside get three on the outside. This is where chaining up practice helps. It is easy to a bunch of links on the inside when the outside isn't hooked up. So you go out and practice putting them on and figure out the most amount of links you can go one side and get the same on the other. Watch some videos on you tube too. It will be easier than reading my confusing dribble. In the begging they can be confusing.

ETA: In the attached picture you can see the cam hooking piece for the outside of the tire at the bottom. You always want this on the outside and the regular hook you can't see on the inside. Hook the inside first and then do the outside. Check this place out for chains. They seem to have decent prices. http://www.tirechainsrequired.com/search?q=245%2F75-16&type=product&SUBMIT15.x=24&SUBMIT15.y=5 After my current chains wear out I think I will get some of the studded ones and se how they compare to the Vbar's. Definitely won't use those on the road unless there is a lot of ice.

 

BTW,

V-bar chains are only for OFF-road, icy conditions & not for ON-road icy conditions, correct?

 

Hartford, that makes sense. Let me check out that website.

Thank you.

 

If you have decent tires and a couple hundred pounds in the back by the time conditions are bad enough to use chains v bars wont bother the road too much if that is what you feel the need for. Standard twist links will work well for you and might be a few bucks cheaper. Get what gives you piece of mind and run them. If the weather is bad enough for chains no one will be checking them.

 

I go up to Boone 3 or 4 times a year. Yes it most certainly can and probably will snow in November, most likely 1st snow this October. The road from Banner Elk up to The town of Beech is a tricky one on a dry day. Very steep and curvy. They are good with plowing ect., but def get some chains. I have some made by RUD i think is the name of them. They are easy on/off cables. Also as a side note, I have a 4x4 DC but I have never HAD to use it to get around there or use the cables. I do use my 4 wheel drive for fun , but NEVER HAD to have it engaged. I'm sure there are times when you would need it. Be careful, and have fun!

 

just slow down. don't air down the tires. snow is the opposite of sand. you want to dig in, not float on top.
remember 4wd and limited slip only help you move forward, you will slide off the road braking or turning just like any other vehicle.

have fun trying to get to the upper parking lot at Beech
(I used to instruct there when I was in college)