Broke something. Shit.

if your steering rack was messed up, or loose, or had a bent tie rod everything would be amplified by adding power to the system via 4wd.
however why would the front diff make nose just from turning the wheel.

 

This. Your low speed turning issues could be diff binding, most likely front diff. But those noises in the video are something else.

 

Could it be a bad/binding wheel bearing?

 

I have dealt with this exact same noise on at least 3 or 4 dozen vehicles over my career. Now obviously I can't guarantee it, but that is the exact same noise that a truck with a bad lower ball joint makes when it gets dry in the socket. A quick test is to unload that ball joint. Using a jack, SAFELY lift the truck from the frame, or the center cross member in the front. Do NOT lift it from the lower control arm. Lifting in this manner takes the weight load off the LBJ, so that the only force on the LBJ is from upward spring tension. Now turn the steering wheel back and forth. If the noise goes away, then you are looking at a 90% probability of a LBJ. The noise COULD be from an UBJ, but it is the least likely ball joint, as the lowers have the most stress on them.

 

^ Trust this guy. He knows

 

Yes...what he said. that's what I said from the beginning. Do what he says to check out your bj. While its up wiggle th wheel and tire I bet you can feel it loose

 

Wheel bearing was my first suspicion.

Definitely looked dirty in the video.

X2.

Once BamaToy joins in, I know I'm out.

When it's jacked up, can you easily shake the wheel? Even after watching the video, part of me still wants to check the wheel bearing. Edit: partly because the OP stated that it happened while being offroad.

 

almost sounds like the out tierod end ball joint is rubbing on the dust shield for the brakes.
had that happen to a friend on mine after installing his lift.

 

Wut.....

 

The dust shield for the front brakes and the ball joint that is apart of the outer tierod end, Sound like they may be rubbing together.

It is pretty easy to bend the dust shield causing it to contact the outer tierod end either while wheeling or during a lift install. If they are touching they make quite a racket while turning. I had a similar sound after installing a lift for a friend of mine and that was the problem in that instance.

better?

Seems like I had some shitty spelling in my last post. Hopefully this clears that up.

 

I got ya...don't worry. lol

 

So...brought it to a local mechanic. I'm busy at work and don't have the time or patience to rip into the front end again, especially after spending two days off installing my OME lift. It took a while to diagnose until the spindle was off and we could check out the ball joints, which were all fine. Spun the rotor with the axle out...sounded fine, no shimmy, grinding or play. Tried rotating the CV...and its fucked. The outboard CV joint is nearly seized, it barely flexes at all and doesn't want to move much beyond the 20° angle it seems stuck at. I've ordered up a new one from the local dealer - $540 plus a new diff seal. Ouch. Not really sure how it happened; the boots at both joints are fine, no tears or holes anywhere. Ill probably order up a ECGS bushing and some new hubs/bearings from bama over the next few weeks anyways, as I suspect that axle did some damage to the wheel bearing and diff needle bearing in the process.

Kinda disappointing overall; the truck has 120k km's on it and has never really had a hard day in its life (aside from that last trip).

 

hmm thats weird. did you open the joint up to see what was going on? maybe something broke inside the joint and was getting jammed up.

 

We reassembled everything in the meantime so I could get it out of the shop; I might install it myself early next week - I've checked out a couple install threads/vids and it doesn't look too difficult. Just need to grab a 35mm socket. I'll take the old CV apart and post up some pics if the problem is visible.

 

Thanks for the update. That is a strange one to be sure. I will list that under the "WTF?" section of strange noises. lol. I'll be ready for your bearing order as soon as you need them. Just let me know.

 

So I grabbed a new CV from Toyota last night, with a new diff oil seal. Managed to get the CV out with a decent 2' pry bar and a few good pushes. I thought getting the new one in was going to be a pain in the ass after trying to whack it with a hammer and figuring I'd probably do more damage than necessary. I managed to just grab it, line it up after getting the diff side half-in, giving it a push and it popped in the rest of the way. I guess having a little axle grease on the splines and the C-clip properly positioned helped.

When I checked out the old CV, I noticed the culprit pretty quick.



If you've looked at one of these before, you'll know the boots are clipped on with metal circlips that hold the boot on good and tight, properly holding the grease in. What we have here in 'exhibit A' is pure laziness. Either the previous owner or a shitty mechanic apparently replaced the boot on the wheel side with a shitty plastic zap strap of some sort, and it doesn't have nearly enough strength to properly seal the boot on the axle. When I went and grabbed the CV to remove it, the boot end with the plastic zap strap slid towards the spline, forcing some nasty, brown rustwater out. The wheel side joint of the CV feels pretty nasty and doesn't rotate to full extension at all, and sounds like there's ball bearings rolling around inside in a sandy, rusty soup. I'll cut her open tomorrow and take a look.

Either way, it's fixed, with relatively minimal expense. Took it for a spin and all is good...aside from a driveline vibe around 45 from the lift, but that's small potatoes.

 

Damn thats messed. Lazy ass people.

 

Crazy...Show some pics after you cut it open.