Supercharger Issues?

Thanks everyone. I will try fresh fuel once I get the new pump in. FYI I always fill at either Shell or COOP which are both top tier fuel certified by Toyota. Neither one of them uses Ethanol in there Premium in Canada.

The pump was next on my list of upgrades so I may as well get it in there if for nothing else than reassurance I'm getting consistent fuel line pressure. Like I said, others have found even with the stock pulley that the fuel line pressure drops to unacceptable pressures when the stock pump is used.

As for running fat, when I watch my AFR on the Scangauge at WOT it first dips to around 12.5 then sky rockets to 17ish. I think the truck dumps fuel right off the bat and then the fuel pressure hammers down and the pump can't keep up the supply of good pressure fuel to the injectors. The stutter doesn't happen right off the bat, it happens after a second or two, which is one of the reasons I suspected bad fuel flow. I know it's got to be a fuel, air, or spark issue. I'm going with fuel because it is by far the most likely problem at this point IMHO.

I checked the plugs that aren't under the S/C this morning just for shits and giggles. They are clean of carbon deposits and there's no pitting or wear so that is not the source of my issues.

 

I didn't read all the replies cause I'm on my phone but the ones I read all sounded wrong.

If you're shooting black soot out the back it means you are running rich. Cold air is denser and would LEAN out your mixture. Whoever said the cold makes it run rich is a fool.

To me it sounds like something is slipping and your SC is not building boost until the truck warms up. As the truck warms up things expand and change in tolerance and thus it might "cure" the slipping until the engine cools again.

Do you have a boost gauge? This would be the easiest way to tell.

 

Revo, don't call people fools. Engines runs very rich on start-up when it's cold, to warm it up faster. Once the engine is warm it runs stoic (not lean). The temperature of the air / density does not matter as the ECU adjusts for this.

 

Nope, no boost gauge here, it's on my list. Considering our Taco's only make 6-8 PSI I've being trying to find a good gauge that doesn't read to 35-50 PSI. Digital gauges aren't cheap either.

I guess I should of explained myself better since I'm the guy who mentioned running lean and black smoke . IMHO I think I'm getting surging in pump pressure because of my pump. When I give'r shit (WOT) the AFR drops to 12 for less than a second then flies up to 17. I'm sure the extremely slight black puff is coming on from the initial fuel dump and after that I'm running lean and have starvation issues for the few moments I'm a bit lean. When I'm cruising around or accelerating slowly the AFR stays at 14.7 as it should. I'm going to try the fuel pump since the engine only hesitates once the AFR jumps up.

I played with the belt last night and even had my fiance romp on it to check for slip. I couldn't see anything but I'll check it again in the daylight later this afternoon.

 

going back to the OP
how does a fuel pump work any different when cold or hot??? it doesnt!

why not let your truck warm up and then drive it??

about the tune thing, i was beaning generic-if you cant re-flash stock ecu there is always some piggyback system or side ecu-again not writing a whole book to cover all my bases

if your getting black soot and it sounds like it been for a while or you wouldnt have mentioned the black soot at 15k

a stock tune is very rich and de-tuned so they stay in safe perimeters

so your telling me on the spark plug thing that if someone showed you a trick and you only do it every 15k and its not hard if you wrench and it helps why not??
once you get a supercharger on a engine, even de-tuned ,the engine is like its on crack,why not treat it right??

and why keep getting on it when you know you have small issues
and if you where right about the fuel pump you are hurting your motor every time you drive it if the fuel pump was the cause.(lean is no good to motors)

i'll stop cause i know this is a truck forum and not racing
only trying to help and i know i know what im talking about,so take it for what its worth.

the gas tank foam might not be required, but if you think gas doesnt move around and a high volume fuel pump cant starve for fuel when it doesnt get it cause its moving around the tank your wrong as hell. so your telling me you couldnt have a no fuel spot if your tank is very low? its wouldnt slosh around?? wow i must be dumb and dreamed that for many years or racing,and thats side to side as well not just drag racing.

i bet next you'll tell me you still change your oil every 5k and dont use synthetic oil. all turbo and supercharger manufactures will tell you its a must.and again dont take my word have you oil tested.

 

how do you think the fuel pump dumps to much fuel then lean then fine,that has nothing to do with the fuel pump
when you stomp on the gas you dont build much boost til the engine revs up a bit and then you say its fine after a second cant be the pump.its not magic how would it not have enough fuel then magically have enough fuel for higher revs,again pumps dont work like that.


pumps dont work that way. if your pump was a issue it would be burning out and less and less pressure.

and if you went lean you will hear it(pinging)(detonation)happens super fast with a supercharger


and stop getting on the gas why you still have a issue,your only hurting the motor.

you said it still has warranty,take it to your dealer cause your not going about this right.
its only your motor were talking about

my stock tune used a 150 gpm pump
then i added parts so new tune and new 250gpm pump
then even more parts and i had to run two 250gpm fuel pumps for over 550hp at the wheels

 

First off, stop being belligerent. You sound like a kid whose yelling and screaming his point. Trust me I do a lot of research and have friends that are heavy duty mechanics so I can talk shop enough to get by thank you very much.

Cold fuel is also more dense and more viscous than warm fuel. The pump, once it's been running a few minutes, gets warm enough to bring your fuel temperature up enough to get a good flow rate. I think my issue is still more pronounced during warmup. Once the pump is warm the fuel cooling it is warm thus less dense/viscous and flows better. I'm still finding the true AFR high even though the engine is trying to keep the AFR at 14.7. To me that says I need more fuel. Anyways that's just my two cents, no need to get hostile.

I do let my truck warm up, but I also live in Canada so in winter I'm not going to let my truck idle for 15 minutes outside every morning before I go to work. The people who do that are extremely wasteful IMHO. It's well proven that with synthetic oil it only takes 30-45 seconds of warmup time before an engine is perfectly safe to use even at -30 c.

I'm not buying a piggyback ECU that I don't need. The URD one's I trust won't even work on my truck without me hacking up my wiring harness which even they don't recommend. Plus I have a limited budget, $1000 dollars plus dyno time is out of my reach since I have a kid on the way. Maybe one day when I have more money and they have a slip in line wiring harness I'll get a new EMU.

I know my AFR. The truck is trying for 14.7 at all times from what I'm told with the tune. The tune should be good and I have no easy way of adjusting it. End of story. Something else is limiting the ability of my truck to get to that AFR and the truck is unable to compensate. Right now it's cheaper to try and get the truck more fuel or air to combat my problems.

I have good spark, we are past that now please and thank you. Go buy whatever plugs float your boat.

When the tank is full, has proper Toyota baffles, and is pumping under 255 LPH you're crazy if you think I need foam. My tank isn't a racing fuel cell.

The TRD Supercharger uses a self contained oil loop. It doesn't use the engine oil to lubricate itself. I use synthetic because I know the long term advantages and I change every 6,000 km's or every 6 months, which ever comes first. I always use Pennzoil Platnium and a Bosche over sized filter. I've done that on all my vehicles and I've never had an engine sludge up on me.

 

You're clearly an armchair mechanic. I'd appreciate if you'd stop word vomiting on my thread please and thank you. You need to relax bro, no one is listening to you because you spout off terrible grammar and blunt force trauma sentences.

Roots superchargers have a few pounds of boost even at idle. There boost is directly proportional to engine RPM's with next to no lag. I ordered the new pump and it'll be good for the life of my system whatever is going on. I'm happy with that . I made this thread to get other things to try. I'm going to try a few tanks of new fuel and I'll keep an eye on the belt. Those are good cheap things to rule out. Your suggestions would cost me thousands and take my engine well out of the OEM approved parameters, it's a no brainier that I'm not going to do that. A new pump with a pressure return isn't going to blow anything out, it'll just return a bit more fuel to the tank when I'm not at WOT. Most guys with the TRD supercharger and any mods are seeing direastic improvement in engine response with a new URD pump setup. There's no harm in trying that option.

BTW I'm not rough on this truck. When you have to merge on a busy hiway I'd like to see the kind of throttle you'd use .

My local dealership sucks. It took them 4 tries to seal my windshield. I had my S/C installed at a dealer ship over 100 miles away that does a few a month. If I get a chance to run up there I'll definitely have them look at it.

 

Good luck OP. I would rule out the cheap easy options and work my way up the ladder until it is fixed as well...so not all of us are here to crap on you

 

what the hell is a armchair mechanic? yep your right i dont know anything about motors or how to work on them ,or rebuild them or tune them.

i gave general generic info based on what you put out,then you come back as a know it all.if you where then you have would fixed it by now.
i never said buy a piggy ecu i was stating how most tunes work,re-flash stock ecu or a piggy back if stock ecu is locked

tell me how reving you motor helps solve/fix it??
keep making it lean does what?
thats redneck way of working on cars-lets keep flooring it hoping it will fix it self,wow great idea
it obvious you dont have access to the right tools or you could check you fuel pressure at the rail and rule of the pump in a second.
you never said you miles as it could be your O2 sensors as those control you A/F ratio(only to a small degree)
O2 sensors could be going out from running rich to long and clogging them up to not read correctly
could be bad gas(some places water down there gas,yes it still happens)
could be you maf/map sensor (not sure what type toyota uses)
what type or air filter (oiled or not)
all these can cause what you dealing with




dont get mad when you ask for help and dont like what you hear,door swings both ways

yep truth hurts

im out

 

LOL.

I rev'd it up on the side of the road a few times when it happened to replicate my issue. You can't fix a AFR issue until you replicate it when you're looking/listening. I checked out everything I could from the cab visually to try and quickly pinpoint the problem. When I couldn't pinpoint it I drove home safely and started doing some research/thinking to fix the truck myself. Ideally testing would of been better on a dyno but I don't have one near by and I don't have a pile of cash to hand a tuner shop anyways. Since then I haven't done anything that could cause more damage. I checked belt slippage by letting the engine cool then having my fiance rev the enigne to about 3500 RPM's and backing it down to idle 3-4 times. I didn't hear or see any slippage.

I'm not a know it all, I just seem to know more about my specific engine, ECU, and supercharger than you do. Don't come on a forum and spout off "racing" knowledge when my truck is no where near the kind of setup you are trying to compare it too. An example of your poor application of your knowledge is such: Just FYI sloshing happens in tanks that usually are going around corners, or other abrupt maneuvers like braking, in race cells. Not a multi-purpose truck trying to accelerate evenly in a straight line with a well baffled stock fuel tank.

Lord Helmet and the other guys who commented have been here for years and read multiple S/C threads. You just showed up after coming from some POS mustang.

Go back to owning a " 'stang " please, you fit in better with those guys.

 

Proves my point

 

Don't worry about him. That guy puts a "u" in TRD edition.

I'll try new fuel once I get my URD fuel pump kit in. After that I'll probably beg the wife to install a Wideband AFR gauge and boost gauge to better diagnose my issue if the new fuel and pump doesn't help. After that it's off to Cochrane Toyota for there humble opinion. Hopefully somewhere in there I'll hammer out what's going on exactly. Thanks guys.

 

havent had the stang in over 10 yrs
was racing motorcycles but now into shooting matches
all superchagers are basiclly the same and work the same
so my knowledge is very useful
and thats not how you check for a slipping belt,you can just examine it for marks
and what makes a stang a pos??

and final statement, i know my knowledge is more then yours as i would of had it fixed already and dont go to a forum when you need a real mechanic.
the funniest part is if you still have warranty the dealer will fix it for free!!!
and if one is to far for you not my fault,lol

lets see a drive to a dealer to get it fixed right or try it your self??
free and right is better then your guess any day.
this is a free world and if you dont like what i type then dont read it
and you love to call me names,why?? a canada thing???

 

I didn't read through this whole thread, but I would never...ever get on a force inducted motor until it is up to operating temperature. For me, I have determined that its 140 degrees because that is when the computers starts making changes when driving. I still prefer to wait until 170+ though.

 

You're right. Sometimes this setup runs so smooth and feels so stock I need to remember it's not. I'm just worried that the engine is already doing this when it's 5 c out. What's it going to do at -30 c? I always use my block heater but with that liquid intercooler the engines always going to be getting that cold air/fuel. Anyways I'm good with my plan of action. I don't sit on the throttle much on this truck, only when passing on undivided highways and merging onto the same.

 

so lets drive this point down your throat---------

how many superchargers/turbo's/build v8's have you installed? i bet not more then me!
how many cars have you tuned? im not god but i have to defend my self when you make it seem i dont know crap .
my buddy is a top turbo tuner here in socal so i get a lot of inside info and very versed in this area.i get to work on and watch what you dream about,
granted i might type/spell and have the grammar of a fifth grader but im very smart

get your new fuel pump and let us know how well it fixed things, i'll be waiting

 

Never called you a name. You're the one that started throwing around offensive comments. BTW I'm a proud Canuck, I tend to stand up for myself when some hot headed American wants to poop on my day.

Unless it's a Cobra I don't think a mustang is anything more special than any other cheap sports coupe.

A rotary supercharger is not the same as a roots nor does it perform the same. Nor is a liquid intercooled supercharger the same as a street blower. A self contained S/C is not the same as one that depends on the engine oil pump for lubrication. I went through your post history and it's filled with recommendations without any knowledge of the truck you are talking about. Until you understand the TRD supercharger setup your advice will be to general to help. Try checking out the URD/Supercharger/Fuel Pump threads and maybe you'd start to understand my line of thinking. The fuel pump is an upgrade I was going to do anyways, I may as well do it now and knock the fuel system off the list as something that could be related to any issues I'm having.

My dealer is useless. There's only 3 trucks they've ever seen with S/C and that doesn't bode well for any work they do. Plus, since it's a cold air problem, they won't be able to replicate it if I just drop off the truck randomly. I'll need to leave it at minimum over night. The last thing I need is exactly what you thought I was doing, some service technician sitting on the throttle at 8 am until something blows out the side of the truck.

I doubt that's your final statement .

 

get you facts straight!!!

roots blowers are the worst as the heat soak fast as hell and cant make much boost on the top end.
the intercooler siting in the coolant for the motor is the worst design as well
.the intercooler is way to small to do shit and get heat soak right away.
wow how do i know this??? i thought i didnt know what i was talking about.