Supercharger Issues?

Go home, you're drunk . I work on lots of heavy engines, I've seen a ton of turbo's. My "friend" also has a model T chop job with a chevy 350 motor that's putting out somewhere north of 1000 HP. That's a cool enough car to watch and work on I guess. Why start the "my friend" and "my life" BS. All it does is make you seem more full of shit.

I guess I should buy a new EMU, fill my tank with race foam every day, and have my ride tuned for a few K right before I have a baby. That'll fix a small issue I'm having with my AFR when the motors a bit cold. Right, that all makes perfect sense!

Okay, let's just end this. You need to calm down and find another thread to go ape shit mad on.

I'm going to ask a mod to lock this thread. I'll start a new one after I install the URD kit.

 

The TRD intercooler has it's own reservoir and radiator. See what I mean by you crapping out knowledge without a foundation... I don't need top end boost, I like to off road where the low to mid end torque is everything. A little more speed when merging and passing is a plus too. This is a Tacoma, not a mustang .

 

its just a eaton blower,again im beaning generic.
so what if that added a small radiator to it.works the same-

 

Sorry OP and lord helmet, but I'd side with el tardo for a few of his points.

First of all, this tacoma ECU is constantly adjusting itself...that's the beauty of having a trd reflash that is universal for all climates and elevations. Don't put it down, the trd reflash is brilliant. At first it may be rough, but once the ECU learns its parameters it's a good daily driver tune.

One thing about cold starts and operations...you're in open loop. That means it has a preset map that doesn't adjust much out of its tune. It keeps you in "safe mode" so you don't mess your motor up by stressing it while it's cold...to an extent. It can't stop you from being rough on the cold engine, but it does "detune" it in a know safe parameter. My advise, let that engine warm up to atleast 170* before you put stress on the motor. Not necessarily idle til warm up, but baby it until you reach proper operating temps.

Which brings me to wot. That as well is an open loop scenario. The change from closed to open will have that split second afr discrepancy so that jump from 17 to 12 is normal. I wouldn't point fingers at the fuel pump so early just because a company suggest you buy their products for every situation. I'm not taking anything away from gadget, but remember he is a business man.

Anyway, up until this point OP, you've said a couple of things that would easily lead me to see discrepancy in your opinions. First of all, as mentioned, black soot in your exhaust is signs of rich conditions. Second, our roots blowers don't create boost at idle. If you go ahead and install a boost gauge you will see. Although el tardo mentions many racing applications, as he stated, they are general tidbits. Many true points and valid theory, but as he said multiple times, general racing applications. You say this isnt a drag racing vehicle, so why are you going wot and driving in ways that mimic drag racing conditions? Also, you're mentioning duty cycle as if you're informed about it...if you don't understand what duty cycle is then don't go mentioning it at this point.

In my opinion...what you're experiencing is this cold start open loop shudder that your ECU is placing you in to keep you from further damaging your engine. Otherwise, I think there is no problems here...your fuel pump is fine

 

Fair enough. I can see your points and I will be a little easier on the engine in cold weather when I can. It just sucks because this is an unforeseen cost on my TRD S/C setup. If I wait to drive on the highway until the truck is warm then that means 10-15 minutes of idling in my driveway which I'm not going to enjoy.

I'm only using WOT when entering the small merge lane by my house on the highway. I don't open it up anywhere else except occasionally to pass on an undivided highway. I think most people use WOT in those situations as well unless they're driving a small fast sport coupe where WOT means extreme go power. I don't drag race and let's be clear, the 1GF RE is not a motor that's naturally designed for those kinds of stresses. I can see my question has not been answered on here for now and I'll go about my business.

If I'm running a fat mixture there really isn't anything I can do more at this point. MY belt, my S/C (which I'll verify with a gauge when I can afford one that I like), and my air filter setup all seem visually to be in good shape. I'm not buying a piggyback EMU right now for financial reasons I've already discussed.

I never messaged Gadget nor did I go off his websites recommendation. Literally every time I ask a question on the S/C forum it's one of the first mods to do before pushing any sort of extra power through this motor. A smaller pulley, URD y-pipe, etc are all parts in my future so the pump was an easy decision to remove that from having anything to do with what is happening to my truck.

Dude, enough. I've sent away to have this thread locked. You've been generally a jerk at every turn on this thread. You have no idea about my truck and I'm glad you can wikipedia a Supercharger, because I'm pretty sure that's what you've been doing. If you maybe had of worded things like the above poster than neither myself nor anyone else would of been on your case. I've had enough of you.