New England B.S. Thread

Working all weekend. Still glad it's the weekend though!

Going to have lunch with my dad at the rehab tomorrow

 

Even better, pour some concrete deadmen, or just steal some Jersey barriers

 

Theyre not preloaded. I didnt have to compress the springs at all to fit them back in. I just dont have any more down travel movement because of the uca's.

 

Rob looks like I'll be going down to foxboro tomorrow after work . If you have the time meet me .

 

I have bunch of house shit to get done for winter mode.

 

I just spent some time polishing the feed ramp of one of my handguns. It used to be coated same as the barrel but now it shines. I also just bought a shorter trigger pull kit for it. It breaks at the frame now and the new kit claims a 35% change.

 

why did you polish it? any feeding issue's? what gun? what trigger kit? do you like the difference in the trigger?

 

Bodyguard 380 and yes once in a while it would fail to feed. I bought the Galloway Precision kit and havent recieved it yet

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLtKFIwbjbE&list=UUvB3solmhqtgDeLpD-yTtfg

 

I love watching his vids. That is the M&P bodyguard, I have the original model with the laser. I purchased the kit which includes the trigger bar, trigger as well as the hammer spring. http://gallowayprecision.com/smith-...0/short-stroke-trigger-kit-for-bodyguard-380/ I also got the mag conversion which will hold another round. Once it comes in I will get it knocked down and let you know how it works. I watched a vid where the guy buffed the frame where the trigger bar sits not due to bulge that hickok45 talks about but just to smooth it out, I will l;ook at that once it is apart cause smooth is nice. I do need to find a sight pusher if you or anyone you know have one

 

Maybe saying preloaded is a bad choice of wording on my part but what I was trying to explain was still true. Front ends just about double what you do to them for lift so a 1/2" spacer will yeild you about 1" lift. Open the link and you'll see that this is a 1/4" spacer and at the bottom they explain that you should see about 1/2" lift from it.

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Front-Top-Plate-Spacer-One--14_p_351.html

IDK if this is going to help you out or not

 

If you end up taking it to a gunsmith, I like 1776 Gunsmithing in Walpole. They can recommended to me from B&K in Natick. They have a good group of guys there, seem to be helpful and know what they're doing but I haven't had them do anything overly challenging at this point...

 

Been thinking of buying a sight tool but it's $100+. Not cheap, my buddy owns urban tactical supplies in Bourne so I figured I'd just make him do mine when we go hunting this year

 

Yeah that makes sense. Only problem is that when i installed these spacers i had to cut the studs down about a 1/4" because they stuck out past the spacers. So i think im stuck with what i got.

 

Lol, I was going to guess BG 380, because that barrel looks exactly like mine did after I polished it (for the same issue). Occasionally an HP would dig its nose in and refuse to strip out of the mag. Wasn't a problem with the Hornady Critical Defense, but with the Speer Gold Dot +P's it was happening often enough to make me nervous (probably due to the much wider HP on the Speers).

What did you use for your polish job? Jeweler's Rouge and a dremel, or something else?

 

I got ya. You have the OME struts on your truck right?

 

Yup

 

Im looking in to the fabtech uca's. Theyre a bit cheaper then the camburg and look a little sturdier then the light racing plus the uniball is already stainless and its protected in the arm unlike the light racing design were its exposed.

 

Light racing doesn't use a uniball. They use an oe style sealed ball joint

 

Yeah i know. Im just saying its pretty exposed with only some rubber covering the joint. I feel like the fabtech uniball is a little more protected. And its a little more heavy duty. Regardless i just ordered the fabtech's.