Arbitration didn't go well..........

Thank you.. He's been gone a while and my mother in law has decided it's time to let me take of her.. It's in really nice nick, only taken out of the climate controlled garage on nice summer days, all original, no accidents or mutilations just little marks here and there. It's red on red. The 383 was gone through 6 years ago, I think it's got around 60k on the dial now. Hasn't been driven in 4 years. We are flying out there in a couple weeks to make sure it starts, runs and document every detail of the car. The transport company will pick it up (enclosed hauler) late oct.

 

Thank you..

I did check the hubs/axles. they were at or below .002 When I measured the drums, I got around .005, which is .003 over the max amount of run out. But I was also told "I was doing it wrong" . I was measuring the outside of the drum (all 6 lug nuts gently tightened down) along the machined area near the studs holes and further out towards the edge. It is supposed to be done on the actual braking surface, inside the drum. I am going to re measure the drums this weekend.

It could be that the tacoma is so sensitive to any imbalance that several components measuring at the max tolerances could cause the vibrations.

 

Sweet, love that era vette. Amazing amount of bang for the buck back then! I'm really grateful she's selling it to us, cause all the grandkids are chomping at the bit to grab it! I still want a 68/69/70 Charger, oh and a 66/67 GTO, oh and a 66/67 chevelle, but I would "settle" for a 68-72 Or to find my moms 68 Coronet 2 dr, last seen in SoCal near Hunting Beach 30 years ago..

 

sounds like thats all good..

i would check the wheel runout (with the wheel mounted on the truck) as well - check from the inside or rebalance wheels with stick-on weights and check inside and outside of wheel.

 

I don't have the dial indicator with a roller for the tires and the rims have weights along the bead. I can place a fixed object (jack stand) close to the wheel and maybe a pencil close to the edge for a visual reference

Thanks

 

Nice! Youre right, I would be ok with any mid sixties to early 70's muscle car from the big three... an AMX would be ok too! I've had a couple Kenosha Cadillac's in my day with 304's, a matador and a 2 dr hornet.

Yeah, it's kinda long and bloated now.. sorry. Ours is an auto trans. think we just hit 3500 miles..damn shame you have to do so much work on that trans, what year is your tacoma?

 

I am a toyota tech and I can try to offer my assistance as best as possible. I didn't read through everything, but I believe I read that your truck is a prerunner and is a 2014. Not sure what has been inspected on your vehicle, but here is what I have for you ...

Read reviews on the Toyota dealers in your area, go to the best one. You may be able to ask Toyota which of the Toyota dealers has the best CSI rating.

If you have the el cheapo dunlop tires, get rid of them.
I accepted the fact that I wasn't going to get use out of mine and you can get at least 500 for them if they have reasonably low miles.

Have a good shop with a road force balancer, perform a balance test on the rims alone.

Make sure the tires you want are road force balanced by a good shop. Just because they have a good machine, does not mean they have a good tech.

You can request the shop foreman to diagnose.

If the dealer hasn't checked your drive shaft for runout then here you go..

1. INSPECT PROPELLER WITH CENTER BEARING SHAFT ASSEMBLY

(a) Using a dial indicator, check the propeller shaft runout.

Maximum runout:
0.6 mm (0.024 in.)
If the shaft runout is greater than the maximum, replace the shaft.


2. INSPECT PROPELLER SHAFT

(a) Using a dial indicator, check the propeller shaft runout.

Maximum runout:
0.6 mm (0.024 in.)
If the shaft runout is greater than the maximum, replace the shaft.


There are many things to inspect when diagnosing a vibration concern and sometimes vibrations are just there because of the way a part was made, it doesn't make it acceptable, but thats the way the product is.
Take another new tacoma(same model) out for a test drive and see for yourself.

Hope any of this helps!!

 

^^^^ see this is the kind of stuff

Op ... Forget 'using a pencil as a visual reference' kind of approaches.

Personally, I would find a dream mechanic who has the tools, knowledge, talent, and experience to nail it. Then try to force toyota to pay the tab. Who knows. I might fail to get reimbursed but at least id have a nice truck at the end of the day.

 

A friend of mine had a chevy crew cab 4WD. We took it on a trip to California several years ago when it only had 13k miles. The passenger window didnt work and it had a shake so bad around 75 that will self destruct the vehicle if driven at that speed for an amount of time. He said problems started around 10k. He ended up trading it in. Not just Tacomas with vibes. Just more exposed as this is a Tacoma forum.

 

My 2008 DCLB had no vibes, before of after the lift.
My 2014 DCLB has this vibration issue, but I think its either transmission or differential related

 

Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the suggestions.. I pulled the DS and had it tested, it was close .030 out and slightly off balance. It has has been trued and balanced, spicer UJ installed as well as a new carrier bearing. the rims and tires have have been replaced, the tires were road force balanced by a friend that knows the whole situation with the vibrations. Well, the vibration remains. I have test driven a couple more Tacomas, the access cab models (manuf the same month as ours) had similar vibes, one was worse and the other was not as bad. I have tried a double cab and 4x4 since then, no highway vibration. The local dealer, Manchester, TN had no tacomas in stock, he is going to call me when they arrive, then we'll do a comparison. Are you in located in Vancouver, BC or Couv, WA?

Thanks again..

 

Yeah, I agree.. we have checked or replaced most other reciprocating components, really does point towards the diff or trans.

I recently had to drive a different work vehicle, had a really bad pulsing vibration above 60 mph. It was taken in to the dealer for an estimate.. they said the transmission has multiple issues including the TC.

 

That sucks.. So the dealer recommended a rb trans and toyota corp refused? Was it still under warranty, if so what what was their excuse? So you're doing the rebuild yourself? I've never tackled an auto trans rebuild on my own, helped out on a TH350, TH400, TF904 and a TF727 but I don't have the skills or shop set up to tackle it on my own. .. I'm concerned with continued use ours will eventually have a major (costly) failure as well.

I'm thinking about trying another transmission shop for a third opinion.

Good luck with yours...

 

I agree with you.. I've searched the web for drive line vibes, high speed vibes, vibrations at highway speeds etc. and every manufacturer is well represented!

But the vibration issue was present from day one, it should have been addressed, resolved or the vehicle should have been replaced.. And yes, every manufacturer, not just toyota uses (over uses) the terms, "normal" and "characteristic of the vehicle" when they choose not to address a known issue. It's a lot less cost effective take care of these issues up front, cheaper to deny the issue, wear the customer down till they give up and go away.

From what I've read, all the manufacturers partake in this type of behavior or it's just their policy. But that doesn't make it right or help the consumer.

 

Has anyone who has this vibration problem tried equal or dynabead to balance the tires? I have heard of people having their tires balanced with lead weights and using either equal or dynabead and it has gotten rid of all the vibrations they were experiancing.
I used to change my own tires but didn't have a way to balance them, so I was using airsoft pellets to balance them.
I had a 1996 Neon with a bad shimmy at 73mph. It was because of soft control arm bushings and Chrysler didn't have any fix for it. I took the lead weights off of my tires and put some airsoft pellets in the tires. It took some trial and error, but I was able to get rid of the shimmy completely.
I also used airsoft pellets on my lifted ranger and it balanced them just fine too.

 

my 2014 trd off road,, had steering wheel vibration, also in gas pedal,,, rattling passenger seat,, box was not centered on frame,, real squeakie rear springs, made all kinds of noises when i shut it off in garage,windshield broke at 150 miles,, said it wasnt the trucks fault.. replaced it myself at 1000.00 less than dealer wanted,,, couple other things also,, just traded it for a 2015 pro,,, i waited a yr and dumped it,, i did not play the back and forth to dealer game.. what a differance between the 2 trucks,, i have one issue,, wheel is alittle off when going straight down the road,, getting that addressed now,,, i took the trd offroad back once for vibration said it was normal,, i pity the person who buys my old 2014 trd off road,,, from a dealer in scran--n pa.. i buy a new vehicle so i dont have to go to the dealer,,, there are new good trucks and also many bad new trucks,,,

 

I don't want to thread-jack, but I would like to know how you use airsoft pellets to balance tires. Care to explain np24?
Thanks

 

i have had the same vibration on 2 trucks, a 97 Xcab 4x4 and my 2005 Tacoma. only thing besides the 2 piece DS is the opposing shocks. one going to front the other to the rear. GM said they did this so rear sway needed, i call BS. my other trucks had rear sway bar and so does Rams. i think they way the shocks are when you hit an imperfection in the road the frame flexs enough to cause the vibration. i would try adding a rear sway bar. bought aftermarket and added to couple of vans from the late 70s. trucks are top heavy so you gain 2 things by adding. just a thought, i fought with GM for over a year and just went and bought F150 Larait Supercab 4x4, best truck i ever owned, shouldn't have traded on 2005 Dblcb 4x4.

 

This is a pretty good read on dynamic tire balancing.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...e-balancing-including-charts-calculators.html

 

The beads go in the tires. As the tire spins the beads work their way to the low spots of the tire and balance the tire out. Some shops put bean bags in larger tires that can't be balanced. The bag breaks and releases the beads to do their job.