96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

would a water/meth injection help any? or would that actually make it leaner since it has a cooling effect?

 

The methanol would make him richer since he's adding fuel. Cooler would help ward of detonation.

 

so what ur saying is win/win for a few hundred bucks

 

Of course man. I assume you'll be fine with a 2" 135 degree silicone bend straight into a small 2" pipe that immediately opens up to 3" to fit over the MAF input and 90 degree bends straight into the TB.

 

You tune it with the piggy back (MAP ECU or AEM FIC, etc...). The dyno is so you can run the engine at certain speeds, throttles, gears, etc... without having to worry about actually driving. That way you can fine tune the engine throughout all RPMs and all gears.

If you tuned on the street, you can do it yourself but its very time consuming. Generally you need two ppl, a driver and someone on the computer making adjustments. You also need somewhere secluded where you can do WOT runs etc... Many of the driving you will have to do is dangerous and generally illegal.

I plan to get a starter tune based off my daily driving then go to a shop to dial it in for the higher RPMs and WOT.

Meth injectors aren't always needed but always help.

The reason you run so rich is to keep the detonation temps down. Any extra gas after 14.7 AFR is not getting burned and not contributing to any power gains. Its just soaking up heat and getting blown out of the exhaust. As you can imagine, its kind of a waste of gas.

Using meth injectors, you can run leaner and use less gas as the water/meth acts as a much better heat soak than gas. So theoretically, with a proper meth injector setup, you can run full boost at 14.7 AFR and not worry about pinging from excess heat. Or, you can choose to up the boost beyond what your were originally able to support and use the meth injectors to compensate.

 

Win/win at the expense of another reservoir to keep your eye on. I'd rather use that few hundred bucks to get bigger injectors and a controler but you're talking way more time and plumbing to mess with. Engines are way more forgiving on meth and water so it's never a bad idea if you plan on boosting a lot.

 

Where did you get your turbo. Been looking on the internet and can't seem to find one with .60 a/r compressor and a turbine in the 58-55 a/r range.

 

I got it used here on TWF from a dude that went NA.

 

Hey guys I found out that the placement of the MAF is VERY important in both fuel economy and power. With an elbow attached directly to the input, the truck idles at 1500k rpms and 13.2:1 AFR. With just a straight 3" pipe feeding it, it idles at 1100 RPMs and 14.7:1 AFR. It's also different when driving. In complete vacuum it stays within 13-14 AFR during acceleration but with the elbow right in front of it it fluctuates between 11 and 15 (mostly near 15) during acceleration. Boost affects it a lot less than I would have imagined... of course we're talking a measily 5 psi though. So you dudes who are fabbing up your own intake system, make sure your MAF has AT LEAST a couple inches of straight 3" pipe feeding it with a straight silicone coupling. Even if you have to cut the wires and make the harness longer to put the MAF a little more upstream.

 

5 stars love the build man! can't wait to see what you do next

 

Thanks man! Next is tuning in these 6 extra injectors.

 

A honeycomb flow straightener can help too

Are your running a BOV btw?

 

The intercooler does a good enough job of mitigating the spiral effect of the turbo. I was thinking about getting a flow straightener but I'm sure I can come up with a solution that costs less than $90+. No blow off valve, but if I do get one its going to be one of those gradual release ones that keep boost in there durring a shift but also take some of the opposing force away from the compressor to get rid of surge. I hate that hehehehehehe chuckling sound of turbo surge.

EDIT: Oh I forgot to tell you (and Robb) to make sure you use loctite or a second lock nut on each Vband clamp for the crossover pipe because mine have already come loose. Last night and today whenever pressure built up I would hear this annoying fart/whistling noise that I thought was a boost leak but turned out to be an exhaust leak. Loss in power and way laggier too. Tightened them up and back to normal.

 

Are you just dumping the waste gate out in open air or are you going to tie it into the exhaust.

 

Na it's just open dump. It's not nearly as loud as I thought it would be.

 

You never answered, did you have to take any head studs out to fit the heads in? The instructions said you had to but didnt specify...

 

Are you talking heads as in cylinder heads or headers? I didn't have to touch anything related to the cylinder heads but the stock headers came out relatively easy when seperated. A couple header studs screwed out with the nut.

 

Ok so today is the day that I set my intake up right. Idle is too high and too rich. Boost AFRs are too unpredictable.
Step 1 - splice in 18" of extra wire length in the MAF wire harness.
Step 2 - cut charge pipes down to perfect/non-goofy looking lengths.
Step 3 - take a drive.

 

Took a drive. Drives and idles PERFECTLY

 

Exhaust studs. For the headers. Instructions say some of these have to come out but doesn't specify Just curious.

Nice man, glad you got it all worked out.

Now head up my way and give me a hand