96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

The exhaust manifold studs within the engine block stayed put while I loosened the outer nuts but a couple of the stock crossover pipe/downpipe studs screwed out with the nut because they were seized together. Not sure why CX says some "have" to come out because they don't... And they definitely won't for you if you allow WD40 to penetrate the stud-nut barrier for like 12 hours.

And I definetely would come hang out and help out if you lived in CO dude

 

Im just gonna dunk the whole engine bay in a bath of pentrating oil b/f I start

 

I've been hitting the studs/nuts with PB Blaster at night once the motor cools down. Been doing this for a while now. Putting a straw on the can of PB Blaster is very helpful. I put a wrench on a couple of the studs and was able to loosen them without issue. Hopefully they're all that way.

 

I'm sure you guys won't have a problem. After all my truck is older than allayalls and has more miles (im guessing)

 

I think it's time for a new fuel pump. At high speeds sometimes the truck boggs down for a second or two then goes back to normal. This is a classic sign of a fuel pump that needs to be replaced soon. Oh well, I was going to swap it out with a 255 walbro anyway. Another hundred bucks gone...

 

I got the Felco 255LPH pump for $40 off ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-2...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4177167300&vxp=mtr

But here is a nicely priced Walbro:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-GSS3...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4adb485b3b&vxp=mtr

 

Dayum dude thanks you just saved me $50. You positive that walbro fits our trucks?

 

Im positive the Felco will

Im positive you can MAKE the Walbro fit...

 

Hmmmmm.....

 

This on should fit. I know for a fact that all walbro 255 pumps physically fit, the issue is in the wiring. At the very worst, you might have to solder some new wiring (two wires). It took me 5 min to do once the old pump was out.

 

Oh that's not a big deal. Thanks

 

No, its easy.

Dont drop your tank. Just unbolt your bed on one side and loosen the bolts on the other and prop it up with a 2x4.

 

I was afraid someone would tell me to do that lol. Guess I gotta get all my crap out of the bed. I'm hoping my fuel pump will last me till I get back from hunting because I have like no money till the Friday that I head up.

 

You have a manual boost controller yet? Just turn your boost way down and you dont have to worry about fuel pressure.

 

Na the wastegate spring is 4-5 psi.

 

Should get one, good thing to have. Can adjust all the way down to your spring rate but no lower IIRC.

I got this one:

NXS Motorsports Signature Series Manual Boost Controller

http://www.amazon.com/NXS-Motorspor...91846&sr=8-2&keywords=manual+boost+controller

Had some reviews where the ball would rust a bit and get stuck shut so I took it apart and used some all-purpose silicon grease to coat everything. Not sure yet where Im going to mount it but I want it in the cab where I can tune it without having to open the hood all the time.

 

it can be adjusted all the way DOWN to the spring rate? how can you get more boost than what the spring is rated for? will it not open once you hit that psi? sorry if thats a dumb question just curios

 

When the valve is fully open, the manifold pressure applies directly to the spring. When your manifold reaches 8psi, its enough to compress the spring and open the valve.

In laymens terms, the controller reduces how much pressure is transfered from the manifold to the spring. Example: at 8 psi, the controller only lets 5psi through to the spring. You manifold pressure will have to be greater than 8 for enough pressure to get through the controller to compress the spring.

Basically, you can't make less than the spring rate in boost.

 

i still dont follow. if ur spring is rated at 5 psi your WG will not be open at 4 psi right? also anything over 5 psi would cause the valve to be open. it seems to me that the mechanical factor would be the the maximum and any additional controller would only operate up to that point, at which the spring rate would override any settings that were higher than said spring rate. im not questioning you because i am very green at this. i just need it explained in a bit more detail if posible

 

The waste gate spring operates off of manifold pressure. If you hook up the manifold directly to the waste gate, the pressure in the manifold and pressure acting on the spring are the same. When the manifold pressure equals 5psi, 5psi of pressure is also acting on the spring. For an 8 pound spring, it will require 8 pounds of manifold pressure before it compresses and opens the waste gate. As the waste gate is open, the exhaust is directed away from the turbo so as to not build any additional boost.

What the controller does is "intercept" the manifold pressure and reduces it. So if you have 8 psi of manifold pressure and the controller reduces it to 5 psi before it reaches the waste gate, the valve won't open and the turbo will continue to build boost. It will build boost until the boost passing through the controller (reducer) finally reaches 8 psi. At that point, manifold pressure would be greater than 8psi.

So the controller can only reduce pressure acting on the spring and therefore can't reduce boost less than what the spring is rated. The only way to reduce boost less than the spring rating is with an active pump that increases the pressure that is acting on the spring (takes the manifold pressure and increases it before sending it to the spring). I don't know if these exist