96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

more reason to wait out your build so you'll have everything worked out!

 

Lol. That's why you get a 4psi wastegate like me so that a goofy mistake doesn't blow up your engine.

 

My shit is worked out. Just trying to explain to EJ. I got a boost controller and an 8 psi spring. Gonna keep it at 8 for now but I have the option to bring it up. Probably going to settle for 10-12.

 

You're going to be blown away at 8 dude believe me. These headers and the thicker exhaust let the engine rev up so much faster and more powerfully than the stock pipes in vacuum then boost kicks in... its just incredible. I'm a hair away from being completely satisfied at 4 psi... can't imagine wanting more power than what 8 psi could give.
I'd be worried about traction at that point... and the engine for that matter.
Here comes Texas Ace to tell us our stock engines can reliably handle 500 HP. Wait for it...

 

Hehe

 

I apparently unsubscribed from this thread by accident, so im resubbing and thank u for the detailed explanation andrew, gotcha now. One day soon i plan on joining the few, the proud, the turbo'd, so im trying to sponge up everything i can.

 

Have you checked out my rear mount thread yet? The link is on the first page of this thread. It's basically 12 pages of a complete turbo noob getting questions answered and going through trial and error then finally gaining enough info to be confident and educated enough to do it right.

 

I havent. Ive been through torspd build about 1.5 times and ran my wish list by him (since i too am 4.0) ill definately check it out tho

 

Yeah his thread would probably relate more to what you want to do than mine... But dayum that's like a novel to read through.

 

Gio, any updates? How's it working so far?

Think you could do me another favor and take some pictures of the downpipe under the truck? Trying to get an idea of how far back it goes before it terminates.

 

I'll take some pics a little later. Nothing really new just waiting for my $$$'s to stack up high enough to buy that AEM FIC and a boost controler. I was messing with the location of the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line and found the best place to tap it into the intake... Right before the TB in the last elbow. Ordered a walbro 255lpm pump early this week so hopefully it comes in today.

 

NO! This has to be on the manifold (behind the TB) to measure manifold pressure and adjust fuel pressure based off manifold pressure only. If you mount it anywhere else, the pressure readings would be off.

 

Our trucks (or should I say my year truck) aren't designed to regulate fuel pressure based on inner manifold intake vacuum. The line needs boost reference but not heavy vacuum. I put the vac line post TB for sh*ts and gigs and the idle was awful.... like 800 RPMs at 17 AFR.

 

Not sure how much that helps but the downpipe ends at that vband clamp

 

Mine runs off the manifold. Your's should too

 

IDK dude. My Grampas 3.4 tundra is the same as mine... it hooks up to a little black air bubble canister thing just barely pre-TB on his stock engine and mine was the same.

 

In case you guys haven't read this:

http://www.gadgetonline.com/Fuel.htm#Free FMU:

EDIT: Gio, the way you have it makes sense, at least in my mind. On a supercharged motor, the stock FMU hose is hooked up to the intake tract, which sees no boost or vacuum, just ambient air pressure. On Gadget's "Free FMU" setup, the FMU hose is hooked into the boost port allowing the FMU to read boost, and increase fuel pressure in relation to boost pressure. However, on your turbocharged setup, your pre-throttlebody, post-turbo section of intake does see boost, and thus the FMU is now seeing boost too (but never vacuum), allowing it to increase fuel pressure as boost increases. Make sense?

 

That helps out quite a bit. It shows that you're correct and that the CXRacing downpipe terminates after the frame crossmember thingy, and my stock downpipe terminates before it.

 

Pre and post TB will see diff boost. It doesn't shouldn't matter on a stock setup but you want to all boost readings (for anything) to be manifold only. In fact, there is one 5vz build Ive seen where the guy takes a reading on each cylinder runner.

 

I'm kind of in a pickle now. On my most recent setup the truck would idle at 1200 rpms at 13.2-14.2 afr (depending on how hot the engine was. Hotter=lower AFR). Throttle response was amazing and WOT/full boost was 14.2-14.8 AFR.
After you mentioned it I decided to keep the FPR hose on the manifold for a few days to test out the difference and startup idle is horrendous (16-18 AFR and anywhere under 1000 RPMS). After I pump the gas pedal lightly a couple times it will go down to 15.4 AFR and when it fully warms up it will idle anywhere from 14.7-15.2 at 1100 RPMs. Response is noticeably slower until about 1 PSI of boost then AFRs go from 15-16 down to 14.2-14.8 and the truck flies like a rocket. Hopefully the combination of 255 lpm walbro pump and manifold mounted FPR hose will straighten out the lean or rich only running. The stock ECU logs data and "learns" over a certain period of time so maybe it will straighten itself out in a few days. It needed a learning period of like a day and a half to adjust to the bigger supra MAF sensor I installed. And I'm not a huge fan of hooking up the wastegate hose to the mani because there is really no reason for the turbo to be pumping so much air into the charge pipes if you aren't going to use the boost (part throttle acceleration). I have mine barely pre-TB and it runs great like that.