Application of Fluid Film

Thanks man, I found one pretty close to me, I'm gonna go pick some up on thursday

 

I think I'm gonna go with a gallon can and then I'll pick up a spray gun at home depot or something. Think a paint gun will work? This should be fun to do without a lift lol

 

If you have ramps and a creeper, it isn't too bad.

 

Tacoma members still get a discount on Fluid Film at kellsport products
Just enter voucher code "tacoma" at checkout.
This code gives a discount and free shipping on orders over $49.50.

 

Subd

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I coated it about two months ago now. Should my frame still look "wet"? I feel like I should have went a little heavier

 

Is there any way you know of to use a Wagner electric paint gun to get the inside of the box frame that supports the motor and trans ?? Thanks for any reply.

 

old post I know, but that wand extension works awesome. the force you get from out of the spray cans is amazing. plus you can get in alot of holes, and pull rocker plugs and door plugs.

 

Application Questions ???

Sunday I ordered a 1 Gal kit + pro gun upgrade and some wands from kellsport - Bob Smith was a great help (although I did not use the TW discount :-( as I found this thread to late.

I've read a lot here and elsewhere on this product and how to prep and apply. As far as the frame and underside are concerned I Think I'm all set (Pressure wash, wait until dry, pro gun With compressor at ~ 80 PSI , shaken and /or warmed FF + wands as needed).

The questions I have are about the Doors and possibly the inside of bottom door jams. I do not want to cut holes and plug unless absolutely needed and I do Not want to pull the door panels. I was thinking of just using the spray cans with the small red tubes to spray up in the door through the bottom drain holes (Windows will be up, I will not wash/hose down the inside of the doors prior to application). Also, possibly through the door latch if possible. And I'll keep the spray to a min so not to soak the inside of the door and/or the window mechanics (I have Manual windows).

Any Advise or changes I should make ?? 2012 w/ 8k miles. Reg Cab 4x4

Thanks All!!

BTW I got my stuff in only a day - super fast shipping as well!

 

Bump. No one has put rust preventative in their doors? Feedback would be most appreciated

 

how are you going to do inside the doors?

 

FYI - the discount is now 10%. Shipping is free for the kits.

 

I'm Pressure washing my frame today - and if the weather holds for the weekend, I'll Advise when I finish ...

 

OK - I applied the fluid film today. I well covered the entire bottom (sans exhaust and engine) and did inside the fenders and lower part of the engine compartment. I just did not just do the frame itself. I still need to do the tailgate and I did not drill and do the door jams.

The Door bottoms I did by using the 24" wand for the FF Spray cans. I was able to use this smaller diameter wand to get up the door bottom drain holes with little problem. This wand was also helpful getting into small drain holes in the box frame section.

Overall I took my time (I hate working on my back under a vehicle), but I did take about 4 hours to setup, tear down/cleanup. I did one end of the truck at a time using two ramps and turning the vehicle around. It was a little messy but otherwise very doable. As I said I put this everywhere I could on the Metal - i.e. in the formed u channels under the floor pan. I'm guessing I used 3/4 gal of FF + 5 Aerosol so far. From what I've read for qty used by others I did put it on heavy - but took my time.

Besides the spray can wand, the two flexible wands for the FF spray gun were a must to get in the boxed area of the frame. I did not remove the plastic hole plugs in the box frame. I tried but felt that if I had to use enough force to pop these out that I'd destroy the plugs. Because of this the long wands were really helpful.

Not that it's got a decent coating I think I'll spring for the $ 129 coating by my nearest FF applicator next year to let them drill in a few holes in the inaccessible Door jams and door chassis bottom areas. Overall it went well and I did OK. I probably should re inspect this in a couple weeks to see if I skipped and spots.

 

Just Curious - not that $129 is a astronomical amount but why would you pay for something you have done and will probably be even easier and quicker the next time since you have experience. Thanks for any reply. Curious George.

 

I wanted to be sure and get it all the spots I wanted/was concerned with so I did the first years coating myself. I especially wanted to be sure the inside box frame section was well covered.

I spent well over $129 for the kit, gun hoses etc. If I knew how messy and long it took to apply I'd have just paid to get it done. Perhaps a quick re-spray by me next year would be worth it - but I still like them to add spray holes in the areas I had could not get to ... and perhaps get a few locations they know up that I missed.

 

FYI- i did an application of FF also and found it time consuming and very messy/stinky. It gets on everything. I did it with the ramps also. tight quarters. I used about 3/4 gallon also. Also the driveway gets a fine coat of fluid film also where your truck is. My truck still smells two weeks later, if you spray the exhaust and other areas which heat up you'll get some smoke with the smell. I would be totally worth it if I had a lift but i would pay the money to have someone else do it otherwise.

 

Interesting. Thanks for the reply. I bought their pro gun and extentions. Works great. Took a bout a hr. I didn't do the doors or rockers - goin to have to look into that. How does the salt water get into these ?

 

It's not so much how but if. Water can get in anywhere - just some spots easier than others. Also Drain holes and plug and trap water. The rocker panels seemed pretty water tight. The doors have the access holes for water that enters through the above window channel especially is the window is not fully up against the bottom horizontal seal. The tailgate has the bottom drain holes - water can be splashed up these as well.

Follow up on completing my FF application job today.

The tailgate on mine was super easy to do (2012). Remove all the screws for the tailgate inside cover and cap. Do NOT remove the tailgate cap just the inside cover. I did find some dirt and pieces of leaves that somehow made it in the tailgate. I blew them out with the air hose and applied the fluid film. Super easy for the tailgate.

There as a few rubber caps in /under the door threshold. I was able to use the extension holes to get in here real good including the extreme ends at the fender/wheel well corners.

The only two locations I had trouble reaching and not sure of the coverage was;
1.) Inside the doors since I did not drill an access holes for the flex
wands (which I may do later). But the aerosol can wand up the drain holes seemed to be kinda ok.

And 2.) The inside of the extreme front end of the boxed in frame up between the motor mounts and front bumper. I did get in there fairly well from the rear entry of the box frame - but I like to have gotten in from the front end. This area looks pretty well sealed - but I'll look again in the spring and see if I can find a spot to put the wand(s) in from the front.

Overall I did get a lot of coverage and I'm sure for the $129 price at the nearest FF applicator would not have got all that I did. Since I drive low mileage now, I'm thinking the deep areas I sprayed should be good for years and I'll just touch up the areas that get washed off underneath /wheel wheels one a year if not two.

This is going to be a great help for piece of mind concerning the rusting frame issues.

 

Thanks for the info and procedures you followed. I'm going to check the tail gate the way you did. Thanks again.