The *Official Photography Thread*

I rented a 100-400 4.5-5.6L. The first one was not sharp at all and the image would shift when the IS was working. Borrowlenses sent me a replacement. The lenses I own are the 18-135 and a 10-22. After shooting with the first one for a few hours I put the images on my computer to edit and nothing was sharp. Didn't matter the shutter speed, everything I took with it was soft. I set up a little test. On a tripod and using shutter delay, the 100-400 wasn't acceptable, and not near as sharp as my 10-22. I received the replacement, and it is sharper, but still not as sharp as either of my other lenses. I know Ben was super happy with his rental. Maybe something to do with my body, even though my other two aren't having problems. Maybe I expect too much? I don't know.

 

what aperture were you shooting at? I can see, second hand/rental lenses not being sharp, due to the vast spectrum of skillsets renting those lenses.

as with any capable camera body, and lens, an auto focus fine tune should always be performed. AF fine tune is pretty much find how the new lens is off when focused on a predetermined point, and adjusting through the camera body's menu. most prosumer and up bodies have this feature.

 

It looks like most of the ones I posted were wide open or close to it. I'll have to look at some at home because I know that's not where it was for all of them. I'll have to dig into the fine tune deal. This is the first I have heard of it.

 

This will get you started on AF fine tune.

 

I can tell the difference on contrast in the L glass from the last few shots with your other lens. They look good to me but I wouldn't shoot wide open with it. 6spd is correct though, some lenses require fine tuning on your body.

I could tell a big difference when I got my 70-200 and learned to use it. There's a time for wide open and then there's a lot of times to not be wide open.

 

That's what I was going to say; fine tuning the focus on the body really helps. I've had a few lenses that would back focus, but they have been spot on since I calibrated them.

 

for those who like taking bad ass truck photos...check out our centerfolds within TCT Magazine, October just hit the internet, http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/348139-october-tct-magazine.html. if you have something you want to share and get posted in an upcoming issue, let me know!

 

I'll be sure to submit some stuff in January after the big Florida meet up

 

I'd be more inclined to take the filter off. Be sure to keep the lens cap on or the lens hood in place.

Sharpness is affected by IS, SS, and technique. A 10-22 will almost always be sharper when you are first learning as any shake in a tele/super tele will be amplified. You can mitigate this by using faster SS, by using IS when hand holding, and by working on your long lens shooting technique. Moose Peterson has some tips. Of course, making adjustments to the AF speed and micro-focus adjustments will help but my guess is you'll gain more with technique and AF speed.

I would suggest trying to work with a high shutter speed (even if it makes you push the ISO) through different apertures. See what that does. Then work with the tips Moose offers as you start working with slower SS.

Good luck! I know you can get the results you expect with the 100-400 with a little practice.

 

I always wondered how to do that..Haha

Noted!

 

^^^Good info there. Been doing that for a long time.

A cheap filter can really screw with IQ of a nice lens.

 

If anyone shoots rifles, shooting telephoto lenses is essentially the same thing.

Good body position/support, tuck the elbows, steady "trigger" squeeze, exhale and take your shot on the natural pause in your breath if you want to get down to the nitty gritty. Etc. ha

 

I use this technique also when shooting. I actually don't use the VR on my lenses often. I've only used it maybe a few times since I got them. I've handheld down to 1/13 and got a perfect image.

 

This is a great analogy. Especially the breathing.

There are several camps with respect to IS/VR. Among sports guys, they tend to turn it off. BTW, IS/VR can affect focus-if you use the back button for focus, this might help you. Landscapers also rarely use IS/VR because they're on tripods.

It's definitely of value if your technique or a physical limitation prevents you from being able to hand hold the lens/body.

Over time (and with practice), you can wean yourself from IS/VR-which, btw, also chews up battery power.

 

I always that it would be cool (yet probably way too niché to every be a thing) if there were Telephoto photo contests where Pro Photogs would have to shoot subjects at various focal lengths (100, 200, 300, etc.) with no IS, with the same settings, and see who can go out the farthest and still get a sharp shot of whatever the subject is. I only think this way because I really like long range rifle shooting and like to compete with myself and friends to see how far out I can still be accurate from different shooting positions, etc.

I highly doubt it would be big enough to catch on or thrilling enough for ANYONE to watch though haha

 

When you look at field and motor sports, you'll see that those guys shoot long all the time (and w/o IS). Hockey's mostly 70-200. Maybe a 300.

 

Is it pure coincidence that I made the same connection?

 

One from last weekend

 

Nice!

 

Not likely ha

I actually have been teaching photography to a couple buddies with some issues after Afghan in order to help them replace the feeling like they're always carrying a rifle / head on a swivel.

It helped me a TON with all that. Replacing negative junk with positive and all that. ha