Upgrade Question for you MidTravel Gurus!

What stage icon coil overs, and rear shocks would I have to purchase in order to get a noticeable gain in performance over the Bilstein setup that comes stock with the "Baja" I'm not going for bigger tire sizes just looking for strictly performance, on and off road. If I could get a 285 or true 33 that would be a bonus, but only if I can keep full articulation.

Yes I fully understand that I could have purchased an sr5 and just went straight into a better build, but I thought I would be content with the bilsteins (BUT THEIRS ALWAYS ROOM FOR UPGRADES! )

Thanks All!

 

Sub'd because I want the same as you.

I could throw my two cents in, but it's better to hear from the experts.

 

might want to actuially ask this in the suspension area and in the midtravel thread here
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/200644-mid-travel-bs-thread-914.html#post9307702

or here

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/203714-king-vs-icon-vs-fox-racing-coilovers-22.html

I am in the market myself and actually talking back and forth with Andy from Got Exhaust.com right now.

 

I'm no guru but I can say that replacing the factory shocks/coilovers with any Icon product will be a huge upgrade in performance. I put the extended travel 2.5 non resi coilovers (already had LR UCA's installed) and the 2.0 non resi rears, with their 3 leaf progressive AAL and could not be happier with the performance. Recently removed the front sway for better performance as well.

 

No sway bar, icon extended coilovers, and rear 2.0 shocks w/ resi, icon AAL and fromt UCAs

I love mine but want to add another front shock for adjustability on the fly. If I where you Id get the front coilovers w/ resi and CDC and rear 2.5 shocks w/ resi and CDC, UCAs of whatever brand and AAL or full leaf pack.

 

exactly what I am getting to replace my OME setup, wonder how much difference it will be.

 

It was only after exhaustive scientific research that I removed mine

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/346570-perils-removing-swaybar.html

 

I would really love to go Long Travel, but I live in NW Indiana so the rust tends to be pretty crazy. I haven't heard of many long travels in my area holding up very well to the changes in weather.

 

Icon has an optional coating that is supposed to hold up in areas where they salt the death out of the roads in the winter.

 

Yeah, With long travels I would have to replace/beef up a lot more though right? I don't really have a need for the long travel in Indiana. Mostly just back roads and Farmland, and the occasional railroad tracks that everyone jumps.

I think im going to settle with extended icon coils in front with extended w/ resi in rear? what you guys think? or is their even a need for the resi where im located at? and of course new uca

Sorry for the bad grammar, Just woke up!

 

My understanding is that all King shocks come coated free of charge (or at least included in the cost already). Salt is still pretty corrosive shit though so nothing holds up in the long run without regular maintenance.

 

Icon no longer offers the IVD coating. The standard coating that comes on them has been doing the job, so they are no longer offering the IVD additional coating.

To the OP, Resi or non Resi Icon ext. travel Coilovers, and UCA, and either 2.0 with resi or 2.5" with resi for the rear would be good for you. This set-up would allow you to clear a 285/70/17 (33")

For the rear you could do an AAL of full leaf pack. PM me for pricing if you would like some, we offer a TW discount.

-Vince@SDHQ

 

King holds up better than all the others in the rust belt concerning corrosion from what I have seen of Tacoma specific parts over the last 6-7 years.

Either way you can always finish the shocks yourself. I was stuck buying Fox rears because no other manufacturer made any sizes close to what I need for my set up. I sanded off the factory clear coat and painted them myself. The factory clear coat is a joke, but Fox is getting smarter and now offers aluminum resi's so thats one less thing to rust out now.

All the guys who ask "what size should I run" need to start doing some research on products before you drop thousands of dollars based on what some guy on the web told you would work. It takes 5-10 minutes to properly measure for shocks so I always advise people to do it, THEN look to see what will fit. Maybe you'll need limit straps or need to change your bump stops... either way there is no way any salesperson is going to set you up with what you need better than if you learn and do it yourself. I still run my ideas by DSMS before I place my order because they are professionals who have forgotten more than I will ever know about shocks, but I do not rely on them to simply give me proper shocks when I provide them no additional info besides that I have a "PRO" model truck.

 

Icon extended travel upfront with Icons uniball ucas, no sway bar, Icon 2.0 resi rears with a OME dakar leaf pack. Im very happy with the setup.

Droop tires Droop

 

How so?

285/70/17 is what we do on Tacoma's all week long with no rubbing when paired with a 4.75" backspaced wheel.

No trimming, no rubbing


No trimming, no rubbing


FJ finished yesterday, 285/70/17 Toyo R/T on Method Mesh's with 4.75" backspace

 

Stiffen up the valving in those shocks and you will get more dampening. There are MT trucks out there that will walk all over LT trucks just due to better valving.

My MT front end does really well out in the sand and whoops.

 

Those trucks look good. I like the work you guys do. But if you wheel with 285s and a 3" lift you will rub. I have a cab mount chop, cut out the fender liner, folded the pinch weld, and trimmed the bottom of the fender. I still rub.

Some rubbing photos

 

Looks like you have a 285/75.. not a 285/70. Your tires look wide for a 285. What brand tire? The top white one takes that thing hunting all the time adn has never complained of rubbing. Granted it seems like you do a bit more harsh wheeling

NWM, saw your build. The Hankooks balloon out a lot. It's a wide tire for a 285/70. Even their 35" next to say a toyo in the same size, when mounted, they are totally different. They are a tad taller as well. That little bit can cause some rub a dub. Also noticed you have wheel spacers. That being said, what's the backspace on the wheels? All fo that combined is pushing the tire out further which can cause more rubbing than a wheel further in.

 

I have 285/70/17 hankooks on blackrock 909 rims with 4.5 backspace. I just added the wheel spacers. I havent wheeled with them yet. But Im sure they will rub worse now. I dont mind alittle trimming though. You guys do good work. Ive checked out some of your builds on Icons site.

 

Ya, the little extra is pushes out, can cause the peak point of the tire to rub. I have seen it with 4.5" backspacing. We try to stick to 4.75" ideally, or 5".

We try to do nice builds! Thanks for the compliment!