Billstein 5100 easy install method

Yes, but there is a metal washer that goes on top of the dust boot and under the top plate.

And if you do not use the dust boot you will have the rattling noise because there is a metal bushing inside the boot that needs to be on the shaft.

 

Looks like I will be pulling them apart tomorrow. Makes sense. Would there be harm in letting it ride for a week if I dont get to it tmorrow?

 

I wouldn't let it go a week, you may find that your front end takes more abuse than you think on an everyday basis

 

Done. Wasnt happy about having to pull them out again but its nice to know its right now. I need to learn to walk away for a few minutes every so often as to keep my focus. It was a foolish mistake to forget to put those bushings on.

 

First off, hello tacomaworld.
A buddy and myself did this last week. Was amazed at how well it worked. Did my '11 and his '12 in about 6 hours. Including rear aal and shocks.
OME 885x and 5100's all around. Didn't need to remove sway bar. All in all safe and quick. Thanks to the OP.

 

Looks good!

 

Did my shocks today and just wanted to say Thanks for your invaluable help!!!

 

Subd for when I get my stuff in!

 

quick question for those that have done this. What height should the front end be jacked up to when put on jack stands...mine max out at about 17 inches, the front looks fairly low especially when comparing to what the height was on the youtube video. I can put a floor jack under the lower control arm but would definitely not fit any wood or anything as a spacer like the video.

 

However high u need it to get the wheels off. Allow for a few inches to push the LCA down out of the way too.

 

yah that was what I was wondering. I can add wood supports and get the front end higher, but if I am going to be putting upward force on the truck, I would like it to be the lowest I can get away with.

 

I quoted you in another thread, but this one is more recent. Is this required if my struts are set at 1.75"? I drove it around after install last night and it seemed fine, but I'll pull it apart again if these spacers absolutely need to be on the shaft.

 

Sure you can drive it with spacers missing but you may start to hear a rattling and parts will wear out. Because the shaft will be able to move up and down within the top hat.

When you tighten the nut on top of the shaft it's supposed to be tight and the rubber bushing is supposed to compress a little. See the video @ 5:17

 

I tore it apart this morning and put them on. Getting good at it now! Start to finish under an hour with clean up. Got it aligned and we are all good to go!

 

I've now done it a couple times, and honestly it gets really easy. Also seems very safe.
The only thing I will say is that I jack the truck from the front, so it is hard to see the actual spring setup as the jack is moving. I set up a mirror so I could see it but be far away in case of an accident.

 

Yup! For me, what worked was putting my jack at an angle where I can feel for the shaft going through the top hat so I know its lined up correctly.

 

Sub'd.

...And done. Took care of it today. Had to disconnect my sway bar and pry the lcas down a bit. Really the worst of it was the rusty skid plate and sway bar bushing bolts. Otherwise a vary safe and easy method. Would have been easier with two people but I'm pretty mechanical I figure stuff out and get it done. Thanks for the vid OP.

 

Anyone try this with ome 887 springs? If not I'll do this method when mine come in and let everyone know.

 

I think some have done this with other than factory springs, but I don't know about OME's specifically. I know for me, at least where I had my truck jacked up, I thought a stiffer spring *might* be an issue with the truck just raising up rather than it compressing the spring enough to do the job.

All speculation, though.

 

Ya someone did a 886 spring which is. Stiffer spring and longer. I guess if not I'll take it to les Schwab and have them compress it.