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Front leaf spring hang bolts seized in place, cant get off

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 043RZ, Oct 19, 2014.

  1. Oct 19, 2014 at 11:37 AM
    #1
    043RZ

    043RZ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Matt
    Spring Grove, PA
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    2004 Tacoma SR5
    6" Fabtech Lift, OME Dakar leaf springs, BudBuilt Traction Bar, 15" American Racing Wheels, 5.29 Nitro Gears, 35" BFGs AT, Pioneer 200 Watt Stereo, 6x8 Pioneer speakers, Raised Front and Rear Diff Breathers, Deck Plate Mod, Red Interior Underglow, Red Exterior Underglow, Cool White LED Rock Lights,
    So today i figured i would install my new alcan springs, everything was going great! Rear shackle nuts came off no problem, rear shackles came off no problem. Then came time to unbolt the stock spring from the front hanger, well the nut came off the bolt no problem but the bolt itself is seized up tighter then a bulls asshole within the rubber bushing/metal collar :frusty:. So my project came to a slamming halt. The bitch is everything was going so well, thats what pissed me off. Cuss now i had to put it all back together for work tomorrow. I tried breaking the bolt loose within the rubber bushing but the whole bushing is now spinning within the spring eye. Im probably going to have to cut the bolts off and replace with new grade 8 bolt which is no problem at all, but what the hell do you cut a grade 8 bolt with??? I cant use heat because of the fuel tank. Anybody else run into this problem?
     
  2. Oct 19, 2014 at 11:42 AM
    #2
    NavyNavy

    NavyNavy Active Member

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    Grinder or heat..... Your tank doesn't leak does it? Don't blow yourself up....
     
  3. Oct 19, 2014 at 11:52 AM
    #3
    Hiatt1991

    Hiatt1991 Well-Known Member

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    Hiatt
    Ventura, CA
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    4" Bodylift 20" Offroad shock spacers Turbo Encabulator
    Had the same issue with a 1st gen I was working on. Ended up soaking in in pb blaster for a few hours and then was able to hammer it out. Had another friend actually shear half the eye off the spring and take it out that way and use a stemmed to grind off the runner bushings. Took forever.
     
  4. Oct 19, 2014 at 11:59 AM
    #4
    Combatman

    Combatman Well-Known Member

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    Sioux Falls sd
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    31" Wrangler tires
    I had the same issue, I tried everything and eventually the only thing that would do it was an angle grinder, and the normal sized disks (4.5"?) were to short and the only way to get it was to turn the bolt (and bushing it's seized to) then cut and repeat till it was just a little metal holding it together that we then twisted the bolt till it broke off. Hope yours comes off easier
     
  5. Oct 19, 2014 at 3:40 PM
    #5
    043RZ

    043RZ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Spring Grove, PA
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    2004 Tacoma SR5
    6" Fabtech Lift, OME Dakar leaf springs, BudBuilt Traction Bar, 15" American Racing Wheels, 5.29 Nitro Gears, 35" BFGs AT, Pioneer 200 Watt Stereo, 6x8 Pioneer speakers, Raised Front and Rear Diff Breathers, Deck Plate Mod, Red Interior Underglow, Red Exterior Underglow, Cool White LED Rock Lights,
    Well my fuel tank docent leak but i seriously don't feel comfortable putting flame near fuel. However the angle grinder i never thought about. My first thought was a sawzaw and a metal blade but dident eat to start cutting and run out of blades. So i sounds like im gonna have to hit harbor freight up and buy a grinder:rolleyes:
     
  6. Oct 19, 2014 at 3:49 PM
    #6
    scocar

    scocar hypotenoper

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    Angle grinder with a thin cutting blade is pretty standard for removing these in rust-belt states.
     
  7. Oct 19, 2014 at 4:46 PM
    #7
    Box Rocket

    Box Rocket Well-Known Member

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    Syracuse, Utah
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    3xLocked, lifted, well used
    Totally common for these to be seized. Buy new factory bolts and cut the old ones out. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut them
     
  8. Oct 19, 2014 at 4:59 PM
    #8
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

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    karl
    louisiana
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    used to have - 99 2.4L I4 5 lug & 04 prerunner v6
    the reciprocating saw will do it, but it takes time and your gonna eat up about 2 new blades on each side you cut. start cutting near the outside of the blade and then as it wears move in to the back of the blade. you will get about 2/3rdfs way through then need a new blade. it will cut through cast iron pipe too but it takes time and several blades so it will get those bolts off for you. plan to do one side each day so it doesn't turn into a marathon job.

    its the easiest and fastest way without getting flames near the gas tank or sparks and grinding dust all over everything and grinding down parts of your hanger at the same time.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014

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