What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I think I found the source of my tail light problem. With the night time lights on, and the brake applied, the left brake light turns off instead of get brighter. I suspect the the wire was broken when the auto body place removed the light to work on that corner after getting backed into. Pictures below:


after the hit



Body work completed, now heres the broken wire








My question is, how do I fix this? can I strip and re solder the white wire back onto any clean part of that metal bulk socket? Or is the location of where the terminal is currently the only place I should solder to?

I can't seem to solder that terminal off either

 

Have you checked the relay in the engine bay fuse block?

 

Nope that's on my list of things to do tomorrow 1&3 should have continuity and 2&5 should be nothing ?

 

I'll find a way.

 

Thanks! I agree, a Subaru wanted to test them out earlier and I almost let it , but my conscience got the better part of me and I gave them a courtesy beep on the horn.

 

According to the 2003 FSM, with no battery voltage 1 and 2 should have continuity, 3 and 5 should have none. Then with positive battery voltage on 1 and negative on 2 check that 3 and 5 has continuity.

Bench testing would rule out the starter for sure. ST-16 in the FSM. If it isn't the starter (which it doesn't sound like it is since it is new) then it would be a lack of voltage at Terminal 50 (the little clip harness on the starter). I don't have the wiring diagrams readily available to know where it traces back to but I would hazard a guess that it should be that starter relay in the engine bay fuse block.

 

Noob question but which manual does everyone use, people refer to the FSM a lot. Field service manual I'm guessing? Is it a Chilton manual?? If someone could clesr this up for me that would be cool, I need somewhere to get all the torque specs from.

 

FSM = Factory Service Manual.

PM'd

 

Got my HID's for my ballasts and the aluminum billet quarter window latches. Also filled my deer tag!

 

This is how my truck is running right now... I was running 75 down the interstate and couldn't accelerate up a hill. My engine would just quit pulling. Boost or no boost. Couldn't go over 75 mph unless it was down a hill. And my AFR gauge would peg out on 10 when I wasn't even boosting. I constantly reset he check engine light, so it wasn't on when this was happening. Then it would come on right after.

 

sure your air hose from the air cleaner isnt collapsing? i had a mustang svo and when i first got it the motor would fall flat on its face turned out to be the hose getting sucked closed. like trying to run a marathon breathing thru a drinking straw lol

 

Your not running lean..that's rich. Super rich for just cruising. You should be seeing 11.2-11.4 under WOT AND MORE AROUND 13.2-14.2 for normal cruising.

 

I found a random plug dangling in the engine bay while working on other things. It plugged back into a spot that was on the back of the power steering pump. It seems to have been unplugged for a while now, and the truck was fine. Anyone know what it is? I can't find it in the Haynes manual.

 

That doesn't sound good, what happened?

 

Ejection seat. Now you have ultimate power over your passengers! MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAA (gasp*choke)

 

I bet someone here has the '01 FSM. I just have the '97. But you can always drop $15 for a 2 day sub to this, THE best Toyota site for all info:

https://techinfo.toyota.com/

Everything you need.

 

Relay tested fine, guess I'll just get it towed to a shop don't have time to take everything apart lol

 

Never rule out a part because it is new. I would bench test the starter for sure.
I have had tons of new parts fail....

 

1 hour of wheeling got me this. And I need to rebuild my alternator now.



SAS taco for sale.

 

^^^you sell armor but don't have sliders?

Haha