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General Fabrication

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by linked2002, Aug 19, 2011.

  1. Oct 22, 2014 at 7:11 PM
    #1581
    mreimann

    mreimann Well-Known Member

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    When I was building my sliders I talked to the guys at CBI about how they notch tubes. They said the same thing.

    Do you generally have to notch a tube before bending it? Seems like it might not fit in the saw if its got a big bed.
     
  2. Oct 22, 2014 at 8:02 PM
    #1582
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I personally wouldn't notch with a chop saw but that's me. It's not very accurate having the flip the tube to notch the other side but when we notch we do 250 to 500 parts at a time.

    Notching on a bend can be tricky with any machine we notch on bends all the time with ours. If they are really steep I move to the hand plasma and angle grinder to make those.
     
  3. Oct 23, 2014 at 6:55 AM
    #1583
    MojaveMadman

    MojaveMadman Cali Raised LED

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    You do all of the bending, then notch the tube. It is one of those things that feels weird when you are first learning how to do it. It takes practice, but once you learn it, is so fast. I think the scary part is removing the sliding clamp and just having to hold the tube in place yourself. It seems a little un-safe when you are first learning, but like anything once you do it a for a while it is 2nd nature.

    When I was working professionally I personally built over 20 tube chassis for sand cars all with the chop saw method. Other than doing the left and right sides, almost every notch is different so it really helps speed things up because your not re-adjusting the notcher every couple minutes. Plus when you build a tube chassis your using 3 or 4 different sizes of tubing so you don't have to adjust for that with a chop saw, just cut and go. We even did 5 full TIG chassis while I was there, all with the chop saw method, so you can be precise, it just takes time and patients.
     
  4. Oct 24, 2014 at 7:34 PM
    #1584
    nagorb

    nagorb Should be a dang perma mod

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    For Halloween

    IMG_20141024_182408434_HDR_zps9b85a38f_6eda84a9f155a46120c47ef7b4c75c834df30176.jpg
     
  5. Oct 25, 2014 at 12:16 AM
    #1585
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

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    That looks pretty bad-ass!
     
  6. Oct 25, 2014 at 7:27 PM
    #1586
    1st4x4

    1st4x4 Well-Known Member

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    i bought this bed cage from another member and have a friend that is going to weld it on any advice on placement. im trying to do it without cutting huge holes in the bed itself.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Oct 25, 2014 at 7:30 PM
    #1587
    1st4x4

    1st4x4 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  8. Oct 26, 2014 at 10:18 AM
    #1588
    tacomonazul

    tacomonazul Well-Known Member

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  9. Oct 26, 2014 at 10:26 AM
    #1589
    thekernel114

    thekernel114 Well-Known Member

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    Wouldn't bother since it can't bend .120 wall dom.
     
  10. Oct 26, 2014 at 10:28 AM
    #1590
    tacomonazul

    tacomonazul Well-Known Member

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    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/227832-my-never-end-build.html
    What tube would you use for a bumper?
     
  11. Oct 26, 2014 at 10:30 AM
    #1591
    thekernel114

    thekernel114 Well-Known Member

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    .120 wall dom is the standard if you plan on using your truck. For pavement princesses .120 wall HREW will be fine.
     
  12. Oct 26, 2014 at 10:40 AM
    #1592
    tacomonazul

    tacomonazul Well-Known Member

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    pavement princess hahaha, so what bender do you recommend for doing a .120 wall dom bumper?
     
  13. Oct 26, 2014 at 10:42 AM
    #1593
    thekernel114

    thekernel114 Well-Known Member

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    Jd2 model 3 or model 32. Find at jd2.com
     
  14. Oct 26, 2014 at 10:44 AM
    #1594
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    JD2 is the best bang for your buck. Buying a bender to build just one bumper might not really be worth it IMO. After buying everything you need you could have a custom one made for less money.
     
  15. Oct 26, 2014 at 10:48 AM
    #1595
    username

    username Fluffer

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    I built my whole truck with one of those. It's a piece of shit, but it works. I did bend .120 wall DOM with it, but it was hard on it. The trick is to use WD-40 on the die. The biggest problem is the U clamp that holds the tubing into the die. It can't handle the force of .120 wall and bends the bolt. I drilled it out and put a larger grade 8 bolt in and it worked ok. It is very difficult to repeat bend angles, i.e. make two pieces with identical bends. The marks on the die are largely useless, so I made my own marks with a sharpie. When I was done building my cage I gave it away for free.
     
  16. Oct 26, 2014 at 11:00 AM
    #1596
    tacomonazul

    tacomonazul Well-Known Member

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    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/227832-my-never-end-build.html
    I have several projects in mind
     
  17. Oct 26, 2014 at 11:03 AM
    #1597
    tacomonazul

    tacomonazul Well-Known Member

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    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/227832-my-never-end-build.html
    Good to know, I was about to order it :eek: Ill go with the model 3 then
     
  18. Oct 26, 2014 at 11:08 AM
    #1598
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    Ahh that will make it worth it.
     
  19. Oct 26, 2014 at 5:41 PM
    #1599
    1st4x4

    1st4x4 Well-Known Member

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    anyone
     
  20. Oct 26, 2014 at 6:20 PM
    #1600
    username

    username Fluffer

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    What size shocks are you going to run? Ideally, you want a 1:1 ratio at full stuff (perfectly vertical shocks) but depending on what springs you are running that may require 18" stroke shocks. If you want to tilt your shocks forward of the axle then you can get away with shorter shocks. Just depends on what you want to do.
     

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