Subwoofer mod under rear seats(double cab)? Who did this?

Just wondering who had the Subwoofer mod where it was installed under the rear seats?

If anyone has this or pics or a write up .. it would be appriciated.

PS I tried to search for it but couldnt find it....

 

I think it is ItalynStylion

 

yup, it was him

 

Cool i found the thread with his pics ... It will be my next project but I would like a few details... my 1 thin shallow mount box idea is workin for me but its not deep enough enough bass for me.

Here is the original thread http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/141434-anyone-slammin-who-has-some-subs-2.html

 

I did mine it turnd out great . Use the factory bin for a mold and glass up a drop in enclosure . The cutout for the subs has to be 7 1/4 dia or less but you can go up to 5" mouning depth . You get about .32 cu' per side in enclosure volume . Mine sounds awesome . I had to raise the front of the rear bench 2" to keep the subs from hitting and re-locate the jack . Will post some pics soon .

 

By the way ItaynStylion cut away the top of the sheet metal to drop the enclosure an inch and glassed the compartment permanently . I wanted to be able to go back factory so thats why I had to raise the seat .

 

Please do post some pics... the more detail, the better (so I can try to copy you! ) I'm interested to see how that looks & functions. Does it make the rear seat uncomfortable?

I've been thinking about this... is it REALLY "permanent"? Seems like the same cutting wheel used to hack off the sheet metal would make quick work of the fiberglass... if you really want it to come out, just chop that bitch in half and pull... right?

 

You could pull out the enclosure but the metal is still gone and your factory bin won't go back . The full size passengers prefer the new seat position . It only raises the front so now the seat touches the back of your thighs . The kids dont care since their legs don't go to the floor anyway . Full size passengers sit about 1/2 inch higher overall . I'm posting from my mobile right now but I'll try and get some good pics up on thurs . Sorry didn't take any when building the enclosure .

 

Cool. I'll keep an eye out for the pics. Thanks for the info.

 

Even though I don't have pics of the build I could walk you thorugh it . Not hard if you have even limited ability . Some experiance with wet lay-up a big bonus but not required .

 

here are a few pics I shot when I got home last night . will try to shoot some better in the daylight .

 

that looks good dude.
mine was put in a custom arm rest of a dble cab

 

Nice that pretty sick dude.


I actually spent a little more money yesterday on some MDF board, and made another speaker box for behind the seat to host my shallow mount Kicker 10".

And now its rockin. I was trying to get alot of sound out of some tiny speaker box's previously and it wasnt workin so i made a box that takes up almost all the back. Had to save some room for the amp.. Ill get some pics up when its complete... just another typical box lol...

 

Redfish, very interested to hear about your build. Seems like you had to sacrifice a little enclosure space to get the enclosure to a shape that it could pop out. I can't get the pics up on my phone, what subs are you using?

 

Italynstylion honnored to hear of your intrest . Your build was what prompted me to give it a try . I used polk audio MM 840/dvc recomended enclosure size .35'cu . I ended up with about .32 so I stuffed it . The sound is great down to about 40 then it rolls off pretty hard and fast . Use a pxe-h660 set at 70 and 24db . to a pdx5 factory h/u . Don't think the low freq response is due so much to the enclosure as much as the fact that 8's are what they are . It hits hard enough to shuffle my ipod .
For the build just pull out the bin and take off the lids . Grind off all of the stiffeners on the outside of the bin and tape over the big hole for the jack and the underside of the flange with aluminum tape . Wax the bin and lay-up on the outside . When it cures drill through the mounting holes in the flange (a pilot is fine) to locate for later .Pop that off and wash with acetone and scuff the inside . Router out the place on the back drivers side where that odd bump is in the floor and do a patch on the inside . Lay up 2 more layers of glass on the inside up to the flange but not over the flange . Cut a divider from MDF and glass it in the center vertically leaving distance from top of divider to top of flange equil to the thickness of your mounting board . Cut mounting board to fit opening in your enclosure and screw in place to divider (seal before mounting here) and through the front and rear of the enclosure below the flange . The board should be flush with flange in the front and rear ,the flange will be above the board on the sides. Lay 3 layers of glass over the mounting board (top of enclosure) and flange . I like to squeege a piece of plastic drop cloth over this part while its still wet to work out the air and smooth the resin a bit and then pull the plastic mid cure lots less sanding . When thats cured bondo sand bondo sand bondo sand cut your holes be carefull here no margin for error here . You can see the board through the glass so center your cut-out as to not cut through the side . Drill mounting holes you piloted earlier through the flange . Drill holes for wiring where you need them , trim flange to desired shape and grind any boogers off the outside . Spray on bedliner the face . Remove your jack mount by drilling through the spot welds with a 1/4 inch bit and prying it off . Apply primer and paint to any bare metal and fill the holes with silicone or an apropriate filler material .
Mount your enclosure with well-nuts and proper size screws in the factory holes .

Tips -you only need 3 mounting holes on the rear flange .

It helps to brace the inside of the factory bin to keep the sides from pulling in while your first lay-up cures

Your speaker mounting holes on the front and rear of the speaker probably will be outside the enclosure . That's ok just tighten them last and just enough to squish the seal so you don't warp the speaker baskett . Or you can make a tapered shim to fill the gap if you want to get them really tight .

After installing if your speakers touch the seat bottom then raise the front of the seat by cutting some 1/4" thick x4" wide steel strap in 2" pieces and drill holes
Large enough for the factory bolts to go through on 2" centers 1" from each end on the 4" length . Bolt the strap to the base with factory bolts and the hinges to the strap with hardware store 1" bolts and nyloc nuts of appropriate dia.

There . I didn't mean to ramble on so long but if it helps anyone else who wants to take this one on then that would be great .

It took me 2 1/2 yards of 1 1/2 oz mat and 1 1/2 gallon polyester resin bought at a local fiberglass shop for around 120 $ . Your local shop should have the material and the people are usually happy to answer any questions you might have .

 

Oops forgot to tell you to lay up a strip of glass to the outside under the flange after you screw through the enclosure to the board to seal the screw heads .

 

Blacksheff my god that thing is huge !!!!!!

 

Old thread revival...

Thanks for the specs. i tried contacting a few peeps on here to build a box under the rear seat. No one is really interested. Im looking at the Sundown shallow 8. Maybe run one ported. Anyone here interested in building this box?? Please let m know. I believe the mount depth is 4.5 so its going to be close.

 

wow that looks great. can you please share some info on the install. Did you build a box or just fiberglass the inside of the storage compartments?