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Your switch panel

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by troublemaker, Oct 27, 2014.

  1. Oct 28, 2014 at 7:25 PM
    #41
    tacoma4

    tacoma4 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the pics. I'm surprised it has no support on the back, does it not wiggle or move when you hit the switches? Does it wedge in tight or something? I'm trying to make one for my scan gauge and you have to give the buttons a pretty good push.
     
  2. Oct 28, 2014 at 7:47 PM
    #42
    WOODY2

    WOODY2 Well-Known Member

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    RAMONA,CA.
    S POD makes a kit for 2014 & up Tacomas
     
  3. Oct 28, 2014 at 7:49 PM
    #43
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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  4. Oct 28, 2014 at 7:59 PM
    #44
    Tao Zero

    Tao Zero Well-Known Member

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    Interested here for sure too!
     
  5. Oct 28, 2014 at 8:02 PM
    #45
    slcsez2000

    slcsez2000 Well-Known Member

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  6. Oct 28, 2014 at 8:19 PM
    #46
    tacoma4

    tacoma4 Well-Known Member

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    OK, now I see how Iggy's fits. There's a lip around the inner perimeter of the cubby on his truck. Mine doesn't have that which is why the ones I've made slip around...back to the dwg board.
     
  7. Oct 28, 2014 at 8:49 PM
    #47
    BBell

    BBell Well-Known Member

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    2013 Tacoma TX 4.0 6 Speed Manual Volant CAI and air scoop Volant throttle body spacer DigiFit Weathertech Kevlar Seat Covers - Grey Interior LEDs Fab Fours PreRunner Bumper Body Armor Rock Sliders Painted radiator Rigid Industries 3x3 D2's DTL lighting kit Rigid Grill and 20" SLR2 light bar Plasti- badges Plasti- front grille surround Plasti- rear bumper MATT black rear taillights Night Raider rear LED light bar :D
    Here's what I went with.
    Out of the way and still easily within reach.

    IMAG1105[1].jpg
    IMAG1104[1].jpg
     
  8. Oct 29, 2014 at 6:06 AM
    #48
    ATLien

    ATLien Well-Known Member

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    Did you follow a guide or something for running the wires? I'd be worried about the side airbags, plus I don't know how to remove the panels w/o accidentally destroying the clips.
     
  9. Oct 29, 2014 at 6:13 AM
    #49
    geekhouse23

    geekhouse23 The "Liftman" - @DrFunker

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    I ran the wires toward the windshield, ran them along the windshield and down the A pillar using zip ties attached to the existing wire loom already running down it from Toyota.

    Quick google search yielded this:

    http://c-lution.com/2013/01/08/2005-2013-toyota-tacoma-overhead-cb-install-with-easy-removal/

    VERY similar with what I did.

    I have this kit for removing trim:

    [​IMG]

    Works great. You definitely want plastic over metal.
     
    RIDER34 likes this.
  10. Oct 29, 2014 at 7:49 AM
    #50
    RearViewMirror

    RearViewMirror Saw things so much clearer once you... were in my

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    Didn't go through the entire thread to see if anyone mentioned this. That is a very clean install and the "pull handles" are a very nice touch. I did something similar to install a XM radio in a Dodge Ram 1 ton (can't find the picture atm). I went to Auto Zone and bought a battery box and measured the size of the space I was going to put it in. Took a dremel tool and cut it out to exact specifications and then cut the hole for the radio face to slip into. Looked factory like your switches and was extremely easy to do. Might be worth considering.
     
  11. Oct 29, 2014 at 11:56 AM
    #51
    Iggy

    Iggy Well-Known Member

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    Check out the build

    It wiggles a little bit, and I may bend some aluminum with velcro to keep it in place. It tilts back maybe an 1/8" of inch when I turn the switches on, but doesn't move when I turn them off.
     
  12. Oct 29, 2014 at 1:46 PM
    #52
    ThomasMore66

    ThomasMore66 We can't stop here, this is bat country!

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    This is what I plan on doing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yC88hp_vYng. I just haven't bought the sPod, but I have run my Ultragauge wiring up through the pillar and there is a BUNCH of room in there for wiring. I use the front sunglasses holder, but not for anything important. My good sunglasses won't fit in there.

    Now, if there is a good solution that uses that bottom area by the cup holders I'd be for that too. It's pretty easy to cut the sunglasses holder, but it is cutting and I'm kinda against that.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2014
  13. Oct 29, 2014 at 2:52 PM
    #53
    Naveronski

    Naveronski Well-Known Member

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    +1 for the GB, Iggy.
     
  14. Oct 29, 2014 at 2:56 PM
    #54
    ThomasMore66

    ThomasMore66 We can't stop here, this is bat country!

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    2
     
  15. Oct 29, 2014 at 6:12 PM
    #55
    Iggy

    Iggy Well-Known Member

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    Check out the build
    I'm waiting to get a quote back on the panels and I'll let everyone know!
     
  16. Oct 30, 2014 at 9:33 PM
    #56
    ThomasMore66

    ThomasMore66 We can't stop here, this is bat country!

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    Dude, so now I'm impatient. Any quotes? I'm planning on a sPOD, but if the quote expanded to include that or an auxiliary fuse panel plus the switch panel... I'm just sayin'...
     
  17. Oct 30, 2014 at 9:38 PM
    #57
    GZeus24

    GZeus24 bystander

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  18. Oct 30, 2014 at 9:42 PM
    #58
    ProForce

    ProForce IG @proforce.expeditions OB#5411

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  19. Oct 30, 2014 at 9:45 PM
    #59
    ProForce

    ProForce IG @proforce.expeditions OB#5411

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    Cant put my switches down below because of this....


    IMG_20130321_183223_zps33be3ef3_7ed21dc13957bcebacb9bd46a8976732bd39d2b6.jpg
     
  20. Oct 31, 2014 at 5:09 AM
    #60
    slcsez2000

    slcsez2000 Well-Known Member

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    I was checking out the spot to the left of the steering wheel, did you have to dremel a little to get them to fit in the slots? Mine switche look a little big.
     

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