High idle until stopped

The insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control means your temp sensor is bad. Your MAF is also bad. These 2 combinations are causing the misfire. Replace both of those and you should be good to go

 

Not exactly. The insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel control means his temp sensor has gone bad and the computer is going into default open loop mode. The mass or volume air control circuit high and low means his MAF sensor is also bad(sounds like it shorted out some how). That would mean the engine can't tell what the temp of the intake air is or how much air is entering. The combination of those 2 issues is going to cause his truck to run like shit and cause the misfire code.

 

I understand that his coolant sensor is most likely the one which is bad, which is throwing him into an open loop mode. That I agree with. I'm not going to say that you are wrong. However, for sake of replacing what is actually bad and not assuming here, the SMARTEST and most economical thing to do is to erase the codes re-run the vehicle and then check which code is popping up first. I'm under high doubts that both sensors went bad at once. Though anything is possible, I'm not going to say that they are both bad and tell him to replace both. Know what I mean?

 

They're so much controversy over which one to replace I'm just going to replace both I think

 

The way I am posting is the standard procedure of any good automotive shop. His method is the shotgun method and will fix it undoubtedly, but you spend unnecessary money in doing so. Hey it's your money. If you can afford it, do it, but I'm just trying to save you some coin here.

 

Going to do it accordingly, as you suggest. Going to have both parts.

 

That's smart! less trips to the parts store and you can return what will not be needed. Let us know what it was.

 

For sure!

 

More then likely it is both sensors, which I do agree is strange that they both failed at the same time. But the MAF sensor circuit high and low means it has failed. The computer has detected an issue in the electrical portion of that sensor somewhere. I do not see how one would cause the other at all. Another theory that is possible is both sensors are fine, but you have an electrical issue somewhere. As a matter of fact, the more I think about, the more I would advise you to check the wiring and associated fuses of the 2 sensors before replacing them.

 

Also, I read that he stated earlier he had erased them and rechecked them again. That is why I know something is wrong somewhere

 

the OP hasn't posted since sunday so I think he will not be doing anything until the weekend, hopefully he will post what he finds at that time and if its fixed or not.

 

The problem is, there are no fuses that run the MAF or the ECT sensor whatsoever. They are wired directly into the PCM.

It is a very long shot, but it might even be possible that if he is getting the two reoccurring codes like that after erasing it, maybe, just maybe the PCM itself might be prematurely failing. The chance is much slimmer then actual sensors or wiring problems. I would have to know if the OP has ever submerge his cabin while offroading or done anything else while wheeling that could had put his sensors and or PCM at risk to shortage.

 

I do agree with you that 2 sensors failing on a new truck is weird.

 

I have replaced both. Coolant sensor and air flow sensor.
fail. Codes still remain.
Too much money invested already to start shooting in the dark.

 

I would start checking into the PCM and all associated wiring to it then. You can either have a bad splice between the two circuits, or the computer itself could have prematurely failed for one reason or another. Have you submerged your truck at all while wheeling on the passenger side? Ever?

 

I've been in water only up to my tailpipe. At azusa canyon.no mud.
The problem has been since i bought the truck. Even then i asked they said smog. I cant afford to keep shooting in the dark, and corporate! (toyota) wont help because no check engine.

 

Oh shit. Up to the tailpipe doesn't tell me much though. Did that water protrude into the cabin at all? I don't want you to keep shooting in the dark either.

You know, but if you are still under warranty and are having a drivability issue and you have codes stored in there, that reasoning alone could more then likely be enough to warrant some warranty work and a diagnosis.

 

Water did not come into the cabin, you would think that it still being under warranty to the corporate with do something, not without a check engine light.

 

I would strongly consider escalating and writing to them if the dealer won't cover you.